Car Headlight Restoration Kit, Heavy Duty Lights Polish Headlights Lens Restore Cleaner DIY Polishing for Electric Drill, 3" Waterproof Sanding Discs, Scouring Pads+Spray Bottle, Total 24Pack

This made my dull and yellowed headlights shine bright and clear again. It does take some time and effort, plus you have to supply your own drill as the product describes but in no time your headlight lenses will look like new. Highly recommend.

It definitely improved my headlights, but it’s not a magic cure. My expectations might have been a little high, but it was still worth doing.Here’s what I learned:Throw the tape away and get a wider tape—frog tape or some other high quality painters take.Throw the spray bottle away and have a garden hose handy. Rinse often.Use a corded drill with a higher RPM.Watch a YouTube video before you do it. Just search for headlight restoration with drill.Buy a sealant but make sure you’re actually done done before using it. There’s no going back.Forget their cloth too. Use an old CLEAN washcloth or hand towel.Wash the headlight with dawn and water before starting—even before taping. It helps.

CON: There were no instructions in the kit.PRO: The kit was packaged well and is reusable for at least 3 times, so 6 head lights.Make sure you have a spray bottle and another person to spray the bottle. It will get you better results, faster. You will hear phases like: "My hand hurts." or "My arm is tired." or "I feel sore." or "I can't do this any more." Don't let that distract you! I do not do this as a full time gig, otherwise I would cobble together a garden hose, valve, possitionable flexible hose length of 2-3 feet, small water spigot or mister, and a clamp of some sort to keep it from moving at the base attached to the vehicle. That way, there would be a constant supply of water to irrigate the excess material away and less distractions. Boy howdy that would be slicker than snail snot.Do not run your drill at full RPM! This can damage the plastic by melting it! Nasty swirls ground into the plastic are even more difficult to get rid of and your pad gets destroyed. This will gunk up the pads more quickly OR instantaneously if you are using the sand paper. TOP TIP!!! The "pad" that is included in the kit is not a rubbing compound buffing pad. It's to use with the sand paper so that the sand paper will hug the contours of the headlamp.After the haze has been taken off with this kit, I suggest that you use the Dupli-Color HLR100 E00 Headlight Restoration Kit. You will need to manually rub the buffing compound unless you have a buffing pad for the drill. Search for "compound buffer" in Amazon and you'll see $9 and $12 options. You can go with the fancy stuff if you're gonna do this more than three times in your life. Family, friends, neighbors or random strangers' cars in random parking lots. I don't suggest the last one though. Non-fuzzy handcuffs might get involved then.

So this product is good and bad. I cleaned a suburbans' headlights and 1 of them was left very clean and clear while the others were clean, but not as clear and had more of a whitish dim, but were still see through. I followed the exact same steps and time process for each and got different results. There were some slight scratches left and I thought this would be natural since they had never been cleaned since 2005. I also used some on one of my acura headlights and it left a lot circular scratches and a buffy coat that does not wanna come off. They were last cleaned when we bought the car 2 years ago and were not even that dirty so they should not have worse scratches than an older car. Additionally, even though it cleans them, it does not really give them a huge clear view or bright shine. I used Meguiars Plastx after the product and that's what made it pop and look good and more clear. If not for that, the headlights would of been more dim with a slight blurry coat and clean. I am only giving it 3 stars because of how well it worked on the suburban. If not for that, I would give it zero stars for scratching my acura and leaving a coat than will not come off. If you are going to buy this product, and aren't picky like me, then go for it. It will do what it says on very bad headlights, but not accurately on each light and it may leave scratches or a blurry coat on not so dirty headlights. I'm very conflicted because of of how it negatively worked and did not necessarily do exactly what the product is advertised to do.

Cerakote’s step1 and step3 are great. But that kit’s step2 only has 2K and 3K grits.This kit here, starting at 800 grit, on power drill, was MUCH better at getting down to the deepest scratches and dings on the headlight lens cover.You want to take the longest time on 800 grit until deepest scratch is removed.Make sure you keep surface wet and move the drill so you’re not wearing down just one spot.The swirl mark needs to be even/random - so keep moving that drill; never stay in one spot for even 2 seconds.You also don’t want to push the drill into the lens cover. Just hold it gently in contact. We’re sanding, not carving.Shown in photo: is also after using Meguiar’s polish, and Cerakote’s step3 ceramic coating/sealant.I did this only to the passenger side headlight. Driver side was in better condition so I didn’t touch that.