3Pcs Type-C QC AFC PD2.0 PD3.0 to DC Fast Charge Decoy Trigger Polling Detector Power Supply Change Board Module Support 5V 9V 12V 15V 20V Fixed Voltage Output

Update 2:My previous update was a mistake. I did not understand the PD system and I ended up wasting some time trying different PD adapters. My original view and opinion still stands, now that I understand these adapters are not at fault.Basically, I tried to use one of these PD triggers on a 12v camera. The problem ended up being that 12v is not required to be supported by PD chargers / power banks. However, when I discovered this, I tried a chromebook HP charger and it fixed the problems and frustration I was having.So if you try and do 12v, make sure your power bank and charger support it! Anker does not.Original:I used this USB C PD board to convert my old laptop to Type-C. Worked very well, I am just bad at soldering and had too thick of solder for the small wires of my laptop. Hell, I burned myself with the soldering iron.Only minor frustration was the small yellow film placed on top of the dip switches, it is hard to peel off.

First thing I wanted to do with these is attach it to my NodeMCU board so I can power it and my LED lights for WLED. This actually went pretty well, got it attahed to the board with 5V and just simply made a splitter wire to connect it to both the NodeMCU and the LED connector. I also attached one of them to my soldering fume extractor I made from a 3D printed holder and a old PC case fan I had lying around. This one was a bit more annoying because I was working with small wire but it ended up working out; got it working on 12V. Having the various different voltage modes makes these boards really flexible for various different projects; I just wish it wasn't as expensive (they can be found on other sites for MUCH cheaper, but they take quite a while to arrive and I needed these rather quickly).

These usually work, but I’ve noticed some problems with them that might make you want to look elsewhere.1) the PD chip has no identification markings on it. This is usually a bad sign.2) The thing failed to negotiate with one specific power bank, though I didn’t check to see if the problem was with the trigger or the power bank. So I don’t know for sure if I should blame the trigger, but the Shizuku tester I have did negotiate voltage properly with the same power bank.3) This thing wastes too much power for some purposes. It’s at least using 20mA, but also there’s an LDO that gets hot and burns more power especially at higher voltage.I won’t return them because I already soldered wire to one of them but I will be looking more closely at these when buying in the future.These will work ok for “casual use”, but are really not ideal.

the dip switches for selecting the voltage are really small, but maybe that’s normal, I’m pretty new to electronicsI kind of wish it had solder pads instead of through hole points, but it could also be because I’m just a noob at solderingin the 20v mode, it would occasionally switch off while putting the full 100 watts through it, I was worried I had fried it, but it came back to life later so I’m guessing it was a thermal protection mechanism. if you had a fan or something it should be able to do the full 100 watts for longer.while using in the 12v mode I had no shutoff issues, and was able to power a pump and two fans just fine

Got these for a modification to a Nintendo 64. I couldn't get 9V out of it. Turns out you need to be VERY sure of your power supply. Just because it's a PD supply doesn't mean it can supply all voltages! If you have a specific voltage you want, it's not just a mater of "oh, I want 12V, and the supply can output 20V. It's fine!" I wasn't able to get 9V till I used a supply that outputs 9V, and even then, I wasn't able to get it unless using a specific output port on that supply.Outside that one personal problem, it works GREAT! Utilized a step down for the 3.3Vs needed and it's almost like it was part of the console!

The media could not be loaded. Edit: Thank you to Zed for the suggestion that my issue below may be due to using USB-A/USB-C instead of USB-C/USB-C. I am so grateful for your suggestion. After switching to the cable as suggested, it works great! Original Review: I connected this to a power bank which specifies that it can supply 12V at 1.5A, yet when connected to a 1A load (with the dip switches on this board set for 12V), this device stopped supplying power (output reduced to 1V) and remained this way after disconnecting the load - until disconnecting and reconnecting the power to this device. I verified the load device worked as expected with a 1A wall power adapter. Testing with other devices I got the same result but with output reducing to 5v instead of 1v. The listing does not specify a limit on current draw for 12 output.

I want to love these things but they’re just so inconsistent. With no load, only a multimeter hooked up, and they’ll change between 5v and 20v with the same source, same cable. Just unplug and replug and they’ll now be a different voltage. 15v is especially hard to lock in. And if you connect to a USB-A to USB-C port, it’ll pull 12v! That shouldn’t be possible with PD so maybe this thing talks QC as well? The only setting I can get to work consistently is 5v. As I’m writing this now I can’t get 20v to trigger at all. I’m using a 165w Anker battery which has been rock solid for any other use case I’ve had. I hooked up a USB-C protocol tester and verified that every PD3.0 voltage is supported. Not sure what else I can do. I’m looking at simpler boards that are just set to a fixed voltage instead of selectable…

The media could not be loaded. You often see people give electronics modules poor reviews on Aamzon. This is simply because they have no idea what they are doing. These are great modules.