GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3080 Ti Gaming OC 12G Graphics Card, 3X WINDFORCE Fans, 12GB 384-Bit GDDR6X, GV-N308TGAMING OC-12GD Video Card

I plan to updated this review as I get time to do some testing so bare with me. So far the few things I tested the temps barley went up a few degrees. I plan to test a few more intense games such as Metro Exodus and CyberPunk 2077. I've heard undervolting these cards can make them run cooler and quieter with little to no loss in performance. I plan to do some voltage testing and give updates here for others to benefit from. GUIDE TO UNDERVOLTING: The idea of undervolting is to get the same or more performance from your GPU with lower power usage and better temperatures. Generally GPUs are designed to have an optimal power usage to run it, that optimal level is usually much higher than needed and thus causes excess heat and increases your power bill. Most video cards can get more out of it for less power if not, at the very least the same. Additionally, your video card won’t dynamically clock as much giving you varying FPS spikes. Few things to note before we begin: 1. Before you get your hopes up you should understand that not all GPUs are made equally and your millage may vary, but regardless you should get something out of this if you do this correctly. 2. This does not harm your video card if done correctly, if anything it will potentially make it last longer. This also does not void your warranty. That being said, I nor anyone else who instructs you how to do this will NOT be held responsible if you do something wrong and somehow blow up your video card. Feel free to do your own additional research. 3. Game crashing is normal during testing, as this is trial and error till you figure out what is a stable setting for your GPU. STEP 1: Download and install "MSI Afterburner". I will not be linking this, you can search this online and find the program. I will also assume you learned to set up the on screen monitoring. Do a search on that too so you can make sure everything is working correctly in STEP 4. You can do that in the Afterburner settings menu. I recommend having at least Framerate, GPU Power usage, GPU voltage, GPU temperature, GPU ram, Core Clock and Memory Clock usage on. You might even want to play a few games and see what your temperature and clock speeds hover at before so you have something to compare. STEP2: Open MSI Afterburner, click the gear icon seen in my second image circled blue. This will open the settings menu. In my image 3, make sure those settings match your settings menu. STEP 3: Once that is done go back to my image 2, and click the button circled in red or click “CTRL+F” on your MSI Afterburner. This will bring up a curve editor menu as seen in my image 4. Keep both MSI Afterburner and this curves menu open side by side and follow each sub step below: 1. In image 2, there is a section boxed in yellow. Pull the Core Clock slider down to -250 on your Afterburner and click the check mark at the bottom center located under your GPU name. You should see the curves editor updated with that change. 2. In my image 4, you can see my curve editor for reference. On the bottom of your curve editor, you will find the millivolt (mV) and on the left you will see the core clock speed. We already brought it down -250, so the next goal is to select a millivolt and pull it up to the appropriate core clock speed. In my case I set it at .875mV at 1905mhz core clock. I’ve seen some as low as .830mV at 1905 and beyond but it crashes for me lower than this so it will vary for you too. I suggest starting at around .830-.850mv at 1900mhz+. Once done, once again click that check mark button, but this time press the “floppy disk” icon to the left of the check mark button and click the “1” to the right side of your Afterburner to save your voltage curve. This way you can click the “1” to select this voltage profile. You can make many more if you choose to by testing what works for you. STEP 4: Now in this step, we want to make sure you have on screen monitoring on as stated in STEP 1. Run a game, preferably something current and high end. Cyberpunk 2077 is a good example, but something like Control Ultimate Edition or Horizon Zero Dawn will do. Play normally and see if everything is running smooth. If you experience no crashes after a few hours then your clock should be stable. If you’re feeling bold, you can try lowering power at the same core clock speed or increasing speed at same power usage. However, if you crash return to STEP 3 and try a higher voltage with the same or lower core clock speed. This is trial and error so be patient. Try different games once one is stable too, just in case. Once you settled on your clock speed you should have better power to performance than stock but how much depends on your silicon lottery. You should be getting a few degrees cooler and using a bit less power. BONUS TIP FOR THOSE RUNNING EXTRA HOT CARDS: You can get even better temperatures if you replace your thermal pads inside your GPU. Do an online search if this tutorial was not enough to get your thermals low enough.

The GIGABYTE GeForce RTX 3080 Ti is a steal right now because of the competitive prices Amazon had over compared to scalpers and other retailers. This aftermarket GPU has amazing thermals with its patented fans and is better than the blower designed. Please make sure to check if the package has a yellow GIGABYTE factory seal when openings the antistatic bag. This will show you its a brand new out of the factory GPU. Make sure to register at the GIGABYTE Website for your additional 1 year warranty within 30 days. It requires a valid Serial Number, date of purchase, and Check Number on the GPU box. Afterwards, you would have a total 4 year warranty for the GPU. Gaming Experience/Summary: This things runs Minecraft with smoothly with raytracing. It obliterates games at 2k resolution like Fortnight and Genshin Impact with high frames/ultra settings. Overall, the added value of using an Amazon Credit Card because of the 5% cash back had saved me even more money buying the GPU and this is an incredible deal compared to other stores.

The 3080 Ti is blowing my hair back... A little background...my previous build was a Ryzen 7 3700X with an RTX 2070 Super. I already had a Ryzen 9 5900X waiting for GPU prices to come back down to Earth. I finally pulled the trigger on this card and the performance uplift is incredible. I tend to play resource intensive games like big open world shooters and such. I could only run max settings with HDR (in 2K) in certain situations with the previous build. The performance with this build is just so consistent with super high framerates over extended gaming sessions. It is just a walk in the park. The only drawback is that I am now curious about how this setup would handle 4K in those games...that means a new 4K monitor... Anyway, no regrets about this purchase at all, especially since the prices have gotten much closer to MSRP.

I'm so happy I upgraded to this RTX 3080 TI I'm a gamer, and I want to run the latest games at high quality settings on a 1440P monitor at 120Hz. I want high image quality, shadows, volumetric shading, and real time ray tracing. No problem. The only thing that I'm even mildly disappointed by is that this card doesn't include a USB C jack. my previous card (a 2080 Super) did, which meant I could use it with a USB C touchscreen monitor. But that's on me, since I chose this card, rather than one that does have the jack I want. Aside from that little detail, I'm 100% happy with this card, and I'd buy it again.

There was a lot wrong with this product but let’s start the at the beginning. 1. The delivery driver threw my package on my front porch 2. The card was either swapped or gigabyte allowed this get past there QA department as it says the card requires 2 8pin power connectors but this one only came with 1 3. The card powers on fans run but no video 4. The Amazon customer service was unprofessional and lacked experience had an attitude when I called didn’t have answers to any questions just excuses 5. My replacement card is 7-12 days out even as a prime member. 6. Amazon wants me to send the old broken card back to them on Monday the 1st available businesses day .but they’re alright with forcing me to wait 7-12days for my replacement and keeping the money. 8. I’ve contacted gigabyte via e-mail but they have a 2-5 bussiness day wait time for a response I’ll update this review later upon reception of my replacement card as of right now I’m very unoleases with the service I’ve received from Amazon and am really thinking of canceling my service iam also awaiting gigabytes response when I receive that response I will continue to update. Update 1. Still no reply from gigabyte. And Amazon has continued with there horrible service one rep actually called me “entitled” last I checked asking for professionalism isn’t being entitled being lied to on multiple occasions by multiple employees doesn’t make me feel like a valued customer. Amazon refusing to accept responsibility instead they put the responsibility onto a 3rd party delivery service. My replacement item was supposed to be delivered on Monday I called Amazon and was told that it would be delivered around 6pm so I made arrangements and canceled plans to home to find out that my package wouldn’t be delivered till the following day because they gave my package to UPS when the item was at a Amazon hub at 12pm Monday and only 45minutes away. Instead UPS has my package flying around the country from Chicago to Ohio to Philly back to Chicago. And when I call Amazon out on this they give me the run around I was hung up on by multiple supervisors placed on hold for unreasonable lengths of time. Was told that “Amazon has my back” bust based on this experience I don’t feel like that is true. If that was really the case they would have had my replacement item here within the 2day Amazon prime delivery time window as the item WAS available!!! So there was absolutely no reason that this wasn’t possible especially since the item was sold and shipped by Amazon. So after a very very long stressful ordeal I’ve concluded that amazons customer service is complete trash. I ordered a new card but received a used card that wasn’t actually a 3080Ti but in fact a 3050!!! I actually had to update my bios on my mobo to run the card but that wasn’t to hard. Still upset about this whole ordeal. And lack of professionalism I received from 85% of the amazon employees I spoke with. Including supervisors who actually hung up on me!!! I honestly hope that Bezos sees this review and isn’t to busy planning his next rocket trip to even care about the customers. I asked for compensation for this situation and was told there is nothing they can do. Hell even Grubhub gives you a $10 credit for your food being 5 minutes late my package was 4days late and all I get is disrespect and lies

I had no justifiable reason to make this purchase. My current PC is an X570 based Ryzen 9 5950X machine that was equipped with an MSI branded RTX 2070 Super card. My display is a 1080p 144hz refresh rate Free Sync HP 25mx monitor. For the games I am playing the RTX 2070 Super has been more than adequate. I saw this Gigabyte card as In Stock and at what appeared to be street price/MSRP and shipped and sold by Amazon and not a 3rd party seller. After checking specs of my current machine, that my case had more than enough clearance for the size of this monstrosity and per Gigabyte's website, my PSU, an Apevia branded 800-Watt Gold certified unit, should be able to carry the load, I impulsively bought this card. Installation was easy enough and I have now been running the card for about a week. Due to my gaming habits and what I am playing and the display I am playing on, I have not experienced any tangible benefit as of yet. I literally just finished playing Far Cry Primal. Yes, it's 2022 and I played Far Cry Primal on a 1080P 144hz display split between an RTX 2070 Super and a RTX 3080 TI. And I have seen no difference. I am sure the monitor low specs are the bottleneck and is why I did not experience any uplift. I am not saying it is not there, but I did not experience anything tangible. I do understand that the card is more powerful than what I was running but my situation is not giving me a chance to see any uplift hence the folly of this purchase. The card itself though consumes significant more power over the RTX 2070 Super. However, compared to other RTX 3080 TI's from Asus, EVGA and MSI, whose cards are recommending 850W, I am hopeful that Gigabyte's 750W recommendation really means 750W and that my non main stream name brand PSU even with its 50W over recommendation buffer will be efficient enough to carry this card. Especially, heading into summer months, I worry that PSU efficiency will drop as ambient room temperature rises. I hope my Central AC can adequately keep this card supplied with cold air and that my PC case has adequate cooling. Even with playing the aforementioned Far Cry Primal, after about 10 minutes of play, this card definitely kicks into "high gear". It starts sucking down the power, and I hit temps of around 72-73C. I used the Gigabyte Aorus Engine software to write performance metrics to a log file while gaming and then input this "csv" data into a spreadsheet so I can then sort high to low on the various fields such as power usage in watts, fan speed rpm and temperature. I should probably run MSI Afterburner's overlay in real time to watch this data since that would be more efficient. I have read that 3080 series GPU based cards can "power spike" and again, I hope that I am within Gigabyte's specs and this does not happen to me. I have yet to play anything modern that engages RT cores and stresses the card. As it is now, the fan noise is significant when the card is under load. I have had PC's that have been more obnoxious sound wise but it is significant enough that you will notice the noise when it is doing its thing. Again, going back to the Far Cry Primal game, when actively doing first person stuff, the card spun up and the noise and power draw are significant at this time, but if I would open the in game full screen map, you would hear the card spin down almost immediately as the workload changed. And then when going back to first person action, the card would ratchet back up. So I am truly concerned that if the PC is hopping with CPU and GPU maxing out, that I may actually overload the machine or thermally damage something. Again, I should be within spec, but with the noise and the actual "feel to the touch" of the exhaust air that comes out the back of this card under load, it is truly something to give you pause. The exhaust is not just "warm" but borderline hot. Not as bad as a hair dryer but borderline "hot". I perform no overclocking and run all the components within spec. This card has a factory overclock and I do run my RAM with the XMP 3600 profile, but that is it. No overclocking on my end as far as fiddling with CPU multipliers and bumping voltage or whatever sorcery is needed for Overclocking. Some other non-gaming thoughts beyond heat, noise, power usage and the aforementioned paranoia. I did try some transcoding in Handbrake using the H.264 Nvenc encoder. It seems to be decent. At least it does better than the 5950X's multiple threads. I do not really do a lot of video transcoding and I cannot say this is any better or worse than the old RTX 2070 Super but it seems capable if needed for transcoding. For my day job, I am fortunate enough to sit at this same PC and drive a glorified RemotePC session, attend Zoom meetings, web browse, and have multiple Mobaterm SSH connections open. For normal non game workloads, the PC sounds like it did with the RTX 2070 Super. PC has the silent ambient sounds of fans doing there thing. No better or worse than before putting this card into service. So for long hours of productivity, I do not have the anxiety that happens when playing games. Registering the card on the Gigabyte Aorus website to claim the 4th year of warranty was easy enough. I realize this write up is scatterbrained and all over the place. It comes across as though I regret this purchase and I do not. While, paying the premium for a card of this class for my situation may not have been the best course of action, I am excited to use this card going forward. I do hope to get a better monitor, something in the 1440P high refresh range. I tend to hold onto my PCs for several years and since the AMD AM4 platform is at the end of the road, I do not see any significant upgrades beyond this in the machine's future. With the rumors of what RDNA3 and NVidia Ada Lovelace will potentially draw, I do not see that type of card in this machine's future since I would have to replace the PSU with a beefier one. If you are in a situation where you have a display that can take advantage of this class GPU, and a PC with adequate power, cooling, and clearance, then by all means indulge yourself if you are not financially hurting yourself. Just make sure to temper your actual need over want. I did not take this advice myself but I realized that before making this purchase. ***1 Year Supplemental Update** So, I have had this card for almost a year to the date of my initial review. A lot has happened in that time. Here are my general thoughts and hindsight conclusions. For my modest case and build, this card just runs too hot! I have upgraded fans and my All in One radiator from a 120 to a 240 unit. Before the radiator and fan upgrade, my CPU would hit 90C thermal throttling. I came across this when I noticed significant game stuttering in Gotham Knights. I used tools like CPU Temp and Gigabyte's own GCC to log temps while playing games for CPU and GPU. It appears that the card though within spec got so hot that it raised the temps on everything internally in the PC. I found Reddit posts indicating other folks had this occur. The fan and radiator upgrades did help but do not mitigate the temperature issue enough. My Samsung 970 EVO still gets hot because it is so physically close to the GPU per Hard Disk Sentinel. Pricing on this card dropped tremendously as the GPU shortage became a GPU glut. I could have waited 3 months and scored this same make model card NEW from Amazon or other vendors for at least $400 less. That stings. Again, I did write this was a bad impulse buy but the quickness of the price drop was jaw dropping. Lastly, I should have just waited for the RTX 4000 series. The bungle of the 2-tier RTX 4080 product skus at launch was corrected with the 12GB RTX 4080 being rebranded as a RTX 4070TI. The 4070TI is what this card should have been. Granted, we are talking a new product line and about a 2-year difference in release. The RTX 4070TI gives RTX 3090TI tier performance and the heat and power are roughly the same as what my old RTX 2070Super was. If I had an RTX 4070TI, I wouldn't have the anxiety I have now with the RTX 3080TI. Also, the whole DLSS 3 nonsupport for RTX 3000 leaves me a little bitter. I get new products and new features go hand and hand and I have heard the disposition on how DLSS3 relies on new technologies in the RTX4000 GPUs. Still, the perception I have is that this card was abandoned by NVidia roughly 6 months after I acquired it. So, my overall lesson learned is that I did not get the full enjoyment of owning an 80-class card due to anxiety from heat and power whereas I would have better been served to skip a generation and replace my 70-tier card with a two generation newer 70-tier card. At this point, I am going to see what RTX 5000 series 70-tier looks like and hope I can make it till then before my current system melts.

No issue with card. Box very scuffed up and nothing to identify it was checked other than an Amazon Warehouse / Renewed sticker on box. Read concerns on heat. Unless you do not have airflow on backside of card it will get hot (It was hot to touch). After adjusting fan to flow over card back side the card fans rarely even speed up even at 4k. Very happy with card and Warehouse discount.

I came from a 1060 that I had problems seeing enemies while playing online multiplayer, graphic intensive games: I had to run on lower settings to keep the game running, but that made seeing enemies difficult. With this card, I was able to run the games at high or ultra settings and make the matches more enjoyable as I am able to see better. I gave it a 3 star for value because when I bought it in May 2022 the card was just slightly over MSRP.