10 PCB Circuit Board Thermal Transfer Paper A4 Size Transfer Paper DIY Circuit Board Special Paper

Falta un instructivo para utilizarlas. Son buenas hojas de transferencia para realizar pCB

I trimmed the paper to 11 inches and had no trouble printing with my vintage HP M5P laser printer. Using an ordinary iron on its highest setting for 5 minutes, the pattern transferred to the copper with no trouble. There is no soaking required (unlike the magazine page method I used to use) to get the paper off. Five minutes in ferric chloride gave me the best board I've ever made. I highly recommend this paper.

So, ok... First off, I've been doing boards since I was uhhhh 14? I'm 49 now, so I've seen a lot with PCB fabrication. I've used Sharpie, tape, decals, photo-resist, and of course, toner. I've even worked in a place that made PCBs the industrial way. Out of all this, toner is my first choice because it's cheap as dirt and all the other methods have their issues.Working with toner, I've used glossy laser paper, magazine paper, clear cutter machine vinyl, and now this paper. Believe it or not, my two favorites are now the vinyl film and this paper. Vinyl actually works very well, you'd be surprised, but it can't do miracles any more than this paper can, and thus you'll still have printer and laminator/iron issues.On my first try, I don't think the laminator was hot enough, and my print along the edge of the PCB cracked and moved a teeny bit in places. The traces came out fine to the eye except for one very tiny crack in one place across the entire board, and since it was in a pad it didn't matter. I etched the resulting board straight away in 1 part hydrochloric + 2 parts hydrogen peroxide, and in a shocking 5 mins it was done. Only one problem - all of the artwork pitted a bit. This is NOT the fault of the paper, not even the fault of the laminator that i use, really. It's the simple fact that laser printers generally don't make a solid coating of toner, period. They print documents, bro, it's what they're actually for.So, the board is going to work, since the pits don't extend through the whole foil thickness. It just isn't very pretty. I've noticed that this paper is a bit more translucent than normal paper, so next time I'm going to print two copies of the art, laminate the first, and use registration marks in the artwork to mount and laminate the second copy over the first. With a little luck, it won't drift out, and I'll get a much better etch due to the 2x thickness of the toner transfer. I'll come back and let you all know how that went.I like this stuff so far. Any method that works the first time, pits or not, has a lot of promise. Once you work out your method, I think this paper will treat you very well.Edit for 2023:A lot of years went by and I tried some interesting alternative methods for PCB fabrication, amounting to a cold process where you mix acetone and alcohol -just right- and apply that to your printed artwork, slap it against your cleaned blank PCB piece, and press hard till it dries. It worked well for me so I stopped using heat transfer... but then I looked back at my older work and was like "IS it better? Is it really?" Pits and cracks and you name it. So I went back to trying this stuff again and was blown away by the superior results. But I also didn't use a laminator this time. Instead, I just whipped out my trusty clothes iron, ramped up the heat to say a 7 out of 10, and LEANED on that sucker nice and hard. Board got so frickin hot I had to let it cool before I could even touch it, lol, but omg what nice results. Not a pit nor crack to be found, and I didn't even have to soak it to remove the paper. It practically just fell off with the artwork neatly bonded to the copper. Just make absolutely sure your copper is CLEAN, like NASA level cleanroom clean. I use steel wool to polish and then a toothpaste rub and thorough rinse to do a final cleaning. Make sure your print is as dense and dark as you can make it. Make sure your heater is HOT, like whoopsie the paper got a little singed kind of hot. Make sure you allow the board to cool so that the ink isn't still molten AT ALL. I think if you do these basic steps, you'll love this stuff.Rick NR417

Less likely to jam your laser printer than would a stiff plastic sheet. Furthermore, a hot iron will cause plastic sheet to buckle and lift off as you press around the edge of the board. This paper seems to adhere to copper over its entire surface and must actually be peeled away. One glance at a blank peeling will tell you if successful. The sheets are almost 12 inches long, so you might have to do some trimming to fit them in your printer. If your boards are small enough and you want to be thrifty, you can even cut small pieces and scotch tape them to A-size bond paper.

When transferring the toner to the metal, 95-99% of it transfers all the way, some of it doesn't. Definitely the paper and metal need to cool almost to room temperature, at least, in order to peel the yellow paper off, without the toner getting stuck in between deciding to stay on the metal, or go with the paper.When I do get mostly good transfers, I find that some sort of goo, that seems to be invisible to my eye, is also transferring to the metal, because the nice cleaned, polished metal that isn't under the toner, seems to resist etching, just like the toner part.I would probably have given this a '2 stars' because mostly it's wasted a lot of my time, but it _is_ cheap, and if I can get it to work, then we'll be at an even 3 stars.Leaving the iron on for a longer time, much longer, makes the paper brittle and flaky, and it really doesn't want to transfer, then.Paper is pretty thin an sensitive - if you rub it very much, it'd going to wear through.So - still working on temperatures (which I measure off the yellow paper with a IR thermometer), times, pressures, surface roughnesses, etc. It's like I'm on the edge of it working, but it's not working yet.I'm applying the toner to flat aluminum bar stock, and flat steel plates. I'm utilizing & attempting various chemicals to etch (metal) without the toner popping right off. Toner on metal seems to be pretty fragile, too, so concentrated lye popped the design right off, first 5 seconds of etching Al. Having more luck with more dilute lye. Ferric chloride leaves an uneven surface finish on aluminum if brushed on. HCl, citric acid - tend to etch ok, but the toner still likes to fall off if you look at it funny.May just have to go with some other solution, toner's not very thick anyway, it's not a great deep-etch resist. Which is what I'm trying, not a simple PCB.