Epoxy Floor Kit – Good Full Kit – Taupe Base with Beige Blend Flake – Covers 500 sq. ft. at 9.7 mils Thickness – Ideal for Garage, Basement, Concrete Floors, and More

I did a month of research before committing to this kit. You will spend twice the price on this kit compared to the ones in the big box home improvement stores but it is worth the investment. This is a high quality epoxy rated for 20+ years. if you get a cheaper kit you will see it wear off and flake in a few short years. Those kits contain water sometimes and this kit is 100% epoxy.The kit comes with just about everything you need. In addition, I would recommend:Paint roller, shoes you will throw away, plastic mat or dedicated area to mix, drill to attach to the included mixing attachment, and gloves.The seller is great. She was very accommodating and allowed me to pick my own color flake chips.Installation took about 4 hours by myself. I did not need to grind the concrete as it was a new house and didn't have any stains or residue on it. I did the acid wash that comes with the kit though which preps the surface.Everyone comments about how great the floor looks. It's easy on the feet and a breeze to clean up.1 year update:We are approaching one year with my floor being installed. I continue to be impressed. There is no peeling or wear anywhere on the floor. We park the cars on it every day. I have spilled oil on it and other chemicals, but they all wipe up like water. There is not even a stain where the oil was. I have even waited a couple weeks with oil on the floor before cleaning it up, it wiped right up. If there is one thing i regret, it's using the optional gripping salt that comes with the kit. It gives the floor some grab when you're walking on it, but it makes it a little harder to clean, kinda like wiping a fine grain sandpaper.-----Two and a half years later, there is no peeling or staining. Very easy to clean! Still extremely satisfied!

This looks great and has totally transformed our very drab garage. The finish is shiny and slightly textured by the added paint chips. Seems to be very durable (so far) with no noticeable defects. We used the tan color for a "warm" look. Good results depend on the prep. We started with a 9 year old concrete floor that had never been sealed, and had numerous cracks, small holes (divots), grease spots and various stains. It was a mess. Our steps:- watch the instruction video and read the online instructions a few times (done before receiving product)- clean out garage and sweep and vacuum entire floor- pressure wash entire floor using light-medium pressure- (optional then we painted the walls and ceiling a complementary color)- using a flat razor, scrape off any remaining paint & glue & whatever junk still stuck to concrete- with garden sprayer applied a strong mixture of "simply green" cleaner & warm water to the greasiest areas, then with a hand drill and a nylon bristle attachment, scrub these spots, repeat for the worse area using a wire attachment (skip if no grease spots)- added TSP to the garden sprayer & 2 gallons warm water and let it sit, then pressure washed everything out (if the concrete is already clean this step can be skipped or shortened),- applied the etch product from the epoxy-coat kit per the instructions, spray on, let sit a few mins, then rinse off twice. Squeegee out water.- wait at least a day for the floor to be reasonably dry, then caulk any cracks or holes you don't want to show. We used a high quality latex caulk rated for exterior use (you can buy anywhere)- next day caulk anything you missed. Some caulk will likely have shrunk from the day before. If any sports still look slightly greasy (or discolored) grind these with the drill and wire brush attachment again. Just being sure (our concrete had many grease spots)- important! leave the garage door open and wait enough days for floor to be completely dry. In our case, in 70-80 weather with average humidity (HI "winter") this took 4 days. We ran some fans for an entire day to be sure.- we had a corded drill specifically for mixing (a strong battery drill would likely be OK). I purchased extra matching paint chips from HD (we used about 50% more chips then came with EC package). Got some additional cheap paint brushes for the cut in. We had two pair of spike shoes (one surprisingly came with the kit). Don't go cheap - you need the spikes. Lots of cardboard so we could lay down messy roller etc. We had a two extendable handles for the roller and the squeegee. We only needed the one squeegee and the roller that came with the kit, though we had extras on hand just in case.- Our garage is roughly 400 sq ft (19 x 21) and we marked into four equal areas (pencil line on floor). We used duct tape and a string (as a straight guide) to mask off the garage opening such that the coating ended exactly where the door touched the floor.- properly mixing A (base) with B (hardener) is the most important part of the job.I don't advise using the very hard to see lines on the wood "dip" stick that comes with the kit. I had two small plastic pails which we used instead for measuring. I poured 28 oz of water into the smaller pail and marked the level both inside and outside with a sharpie. The inside line will become covered with hardener/base and partly erased, so make sure the outside line is visible from within. Tape on the outside would also work as a level marker. Do the same for the larger A pail, except use 68 oz of water. It is very important not to confuse the A and the B pails when mixing, which is why I used different sizes and colors and marked both (A vs B). After marking the appropriate levels dry the A and B measuring pails.- These mix at 28 oz for B to 68 oz for A **exactly**, and you will get exactly four mixes out of the kit. We had barely a few drops left over when done, so it worked out perfect. Also a good idea to have several paint mixing sticks on hand to help get stuff out of pails.- ready to mix and apply, we both put on spike shoes. Make sure all the nuts on the spikes are tightened (a few of ours came off). I found that duck tape wrapped around the entire spike / shoe combo worked better then the straps that come with the spike shoes (straps broke when tightened hard). I ran a timing app on my phone so we could hear the 3 minute mix time and the 10 minute roll time. Put on gloves.- I poured B into the B pail up to the line, then poured that into the big black mixing bucket that comes with the kit. Then did same for A. Use the sticks to help get out A or B. Do not confuse the A vs B sticks! (B is clear which helps) Start the 3 minute timer. Mix for three minutes.- pour mix out about 2' from a wall in one area, then start the 10 min timer and start to squeegee it out. We had one guy squeegee and when halfway done the other guy started to cut in while we kept spreading with squeegee. You don't have to be very neat or even with the squeegee, just spread the entire area. After the first guy was done cutting in and everything squeegeed, he started rolling the area. After 10 mins the entire area was rolled and we started mixing the next batch with the 3 in timer. Meanwhile one guy kept rolling. Be sure to put wet tools and buckets on cardboard not bare floor!- do the same for the next area, except when done rolling, back roll first area. After all four areas and therefore the entire floor is rolled, back roll everything again starting with first area. Be sure to back roll over any small bubbles that tended to appear 20 mins after first roll. Usually one or two back rolls took care of this (we figured the last back roll should be about 45 mins after an area was first rolled). We also popped a few random late bubbles using our extension poll. By the time we started spreading the chips we had no bubbles (one or two showed up right after the chips but we were still able to pop with the pole).- we divided all the chips into eight almost full dixie cups (again we purchased extra chips), so we spread two cups per area. We pretty much threw to the ceiling (9 ft in this case) and let spread naturally, though we tossed some more or less directly into corners. We were going for a random effect with some slightly more densely chipped areas, and it came out looking great.- about 30 mins after we finished the chip spreading, we carefully removed the duct tape masking the garage door entrance.- we finished the job around 4 in the afternoon and by 7am the next day I could walk on the floor. By the afternoon of the next day we were moving back furniture. I waited three full days before driving the car into the garage. Did I mention the floor looks awesome!

Absolutely love this product!! When I tell you this is good quality it really is. Plus for the price you can’t beat it. I was able to complete the project in 2.5 hours. In total it took me 5 days.Day 1: I washed the floor with Zep Concrete cleaner.Day2: Next day I etched with dry lock and let dryDay 3: Next day I etched with the solution provided with the kit and let dryDay 4: I caulked cracks and let dryDay 5: I laid epoxyWhen people say the prep is the most important part they are not kidding. Don’t be lazy with this process! I feel like the prep made it so much easier and the epoxy looks and feels very durable. Also the tip about hitting the flakes on the ceiling gives a perfect even spread.I was able to apply the epoxy in two batches and didn’t have any issues with it setting fast. I live in South Georgia where it is always hot and humid. I did it earlier in the morning when it wasn’t too hot to make sure I had time to work the product about 70 degrees or so outside. If you can apply in the morning do so.