Dopro Curved 43mm Unbleached Pure Bone Nut Guitar Slotted Bone Nut for Strat/Tele 43x3.2mm

I bought this bone nut to replace the plastic one on my American Standard Telecaster. Using my digital calipers, it measured the same thickness as the factory nut (3mm) and fit perfectly inside the slot, tight but not too tight. The underside was cut to a perfect 9.5" radius so I didn't have to sand that either. I did have to take a tiny bit off the sides so that it didn't protrude out, but that only took a second.Of course, you'll have to file the string slots. Think of these as "marked" instead of pre-slotted, as I don't even think a high e could fit in its slot. The Tusq nut i bought for my Les Paul had slots that matched the corresponding string sizes, so I just sanded a ton off the bottom, but with this nut you'll have to find some way to deepen and widen the the individual string slots. One inexpensive way you could try before buying nut files is to get an Exacto saw, which you can find in the model airplane aisle at hobby lobby, and use that to cut the slots to the right depth. Then get a set of needle files and welding tip cleaners to open and round out the slots. A clipped bit of a guitar string (use the corresponding string for each slot) wrapped in 220 grit sandpaper works well for the bigger strings, but can be tricky for the thin ones. Hopefully that helps someone that doesn't live near a qualified guitar tech and has to make this a DIY project.Again, this nut is an incredible value that was very easy to install.

It fit my imported S-type guitar perfectly and improved the tone, I recommend these Dopro unbleached bone nuts highly.

It worked, but not as well as it should have. A proper replacement nut should be close to fitting, requiring removal of some material to fit perfectly. This nut fit looser than optimal right out of the package. Any looser and I’d have not used it. Maybe an additional 0.006” added to this one dimension would have made this a 5 star review. The other dimensions were great, requiring minimal removal of material.The slots were merely locating where the strings go, and not cut to size, or depth, for the strings. This is a good thing. (Although I would have preferred these location slots to be even thinner because I believe they are thicker than the high e, but this material is removed later and made no difference).With a flat bottomed nut you can just shave off the bottom until the nut slot depth is right, without the need of expensive slotting files. and have the nut slots all pre-done to perfection on top, sort of. String gauge still makes a difference. I see nobody making separate nuts for 7’s 8’s 9’s 10’s or 11’s. To do this nut, and any nut properly, you will need decent nut files, which are expensive, and require skill and technique. No, I’m not the guy telling you to take it to a shop, like mine, and have them/me do it. I hate hearing that, or reading it. Don’t be scared. You can do this yourself, if you want to. If you fail, it’s no big deal. The nut is cheap, you can sell the files. You can bring it to me, or someone else to fix it. If you succeed, there’s an awesome feeling you get, well worth the attempt.You will need to remove material from the top. Do NOT use a grinding wheel. It will burn the bone, and your clothes will stink forever. Worse yet, if you throw them in the wash with other clothes, they’re ruined also. The smell will linger for days, but forever in your clothes, and you’ll eventually throw them away when you realize the smell is permanent. It’s bad, very bad. It is a very unpleasant odor. Sand or file it off carefully or you will make the people you live with grumpy. You can use a belt sander, etc. just watch out for static electricity.I know some will say you can use the surface of the fretboard as a sanding block and do the same as a flat-bottom nut, and they could have all the slots done on top. Not really. You have very little control over how much material is removed on each side. It doesn’t work. Either high e or low E side will be left too high. The other problem is making sure the bottom is still square(90 degrees). You can remedy this with a tool…I’m not going to recommend this nut if you want perfection because of the thickness. It fits too loose. It does work, at least on my project, and reduced a lot of the work.

I needed to replace my Fender AM Pro II Stratocasters nut. I found this at a great price so I took a chance. 1. it is too narrow for the nut slot. 2. The top radius is 7.25 not 9.5. 3. It is way too high, you would need to sand a lot off the bottom, close to 1/8". At that point, not really sure what this is getting you, plus on this guitar as mentioned it isn't wide enough it rocks back and fourth.

I ordered a dozen or so Good almost drop in for Fender You will likely need to deepen the slots and do a little shaping to get it right The nuts I received appear unbleached which I prefer

This size was needed for a fine old Samick top loader Tele. Pre cut nicely, a little shaping and sizing as to be expected. I like the non bleached/natural bone to work with. It is not as chippy and flakey as bleached nuts.