Awlgrip Awlwood Ma Gloss Finish (Size: Quart)

I have used this product for several years, sanding and vanishing my wooden boat. The clear varnish enhances the beauty of the wood's color and makes it shine. After the primer and the 7 varnish coats are completed, the wood looks like candy. Durable. High quality and I don't use anything else.

Please with the product. Brightwork went well with this product. Will be purchasing again.

Must start with bare wood. Must apply 1 coat of Awlwood primer. Then up to 8 coats of Awlwood top coat. I used this on flooring. The shine is outstanding and it resists scratching better than the best varnishes. Now I use it on table tops and furniture. The shine after 3 coats is equivalent to 6 coats of varnish. Comes is a screw top can to keep water vapor out..

Instructions say for professional use only. Totally agree. If you are even an advanced DYI'er don't even think of applying this. It is NOT easy to apply. It becomes thick like honey and runs, drips, and is just extremely frustrating to work with. I have tried top notch brushes (throw them away) to foam pads and nothing applies like other products. I am stripping what I applied and going with a different product.

I'm on my third season with this product. I recoat once a year and it has held up very well. I took the teak down to bare wood and buit up eight coats to start. now just two quick coats one a year seems to be great

This goes on fine with foam brushes. Instructions are only found online. Something not in the instructions is that only lacquer thinner will clean brushes with this. If you need to coat the back of a project, it is best to do it after the front is dry. Be careful not to have coats drip around to the other side. If a drip forms and hardens, let it dry for a day and then sand it down.

Fantastic product. Now use for all my teak. Use 4" foam rollers only, forget brushes.

Headline: First impressions of Awlwood MA system Describe Yourself : Avid Do-It-Yourselfer Don'ts: Use alcohol in prepping -poisons the material Use oxalic acid to bleach the wood -poisons the material Apply under very low humid conditions-will impede dry times i.e. never dry Use good quality brushes -brushes can not be cleaned and will be 'throw-away' Use any containers that are solvent sensitive -if in doubt use tall glass or tall metal containers. wide flat containers will shorten pot life. Don't "worry" material by continual brush strokes, apply and tip off Do's: Apply only on stripped bare teak, mahogany etc. Rag on primer, one cannot get even application w a brush of any type. I used a sock on three fingers over a nitrile glove Tape tightly to teak for prime coat and retape with small border beyond teak for gloss coats, otherwise primer color is visible on gelcoat Yellow primer typical for Teak, red for Mahogany. Primer really adds contrast and wood grain contrast. Read product datasheets carefully and follow Great: Depth of Image (DOI) is amazing Was able to do six complete coats in two days on hot humid days on the Chesapeake. Sanding after prime and coat three. Clear gloss is clear! with no hue or tint thus tinted primer gives hue Used foam brushes "not for use for w shellac and lacquer" they swelled after 20 min. and I just tossed it and used another. Ideally one should use solvent resistant foam brushes. If this product becomes known, the pro varnish 'gurus' commanding big money should be very worried.