RGEEK 24pin DC ATX PSU 12V DC Input 250W Peak Output Switch DC-DC ATX Pico PSU Mini ITX PC Power

So I bought this to power a small computer system and this has done that task wonderfully. Though my experiments it has been able to put out over 150W without complaint. But here's the thing. A barrel jack connector like the one this PSU has is only able to really put out about 100 or so watts before the barrel jack starts to get really hot. I don't know about you, but I like my house not on fire. Granted, this issue is not really RGEEK's fault. I just think that if you're going to use more than 120W, you really should consider one of the units from HDPLEX or perhaps a Flex ATX solution. It's simply because drawing 200W through a barrel jack is just going to lead to problems. So if you're going to just use it for something low powered like an APU build or something like that, go ahead, but once you get to about 125W I would suggest going another route. Also you should just consider getting the 150W variant of this because it is cheaper and you're not going to risk the barrel jack melting.

I have 2 of these in use... zero issues, first one has been in use for over a year in a mini-itx theater PC.

It worked on my PC per se. After installing of this PSU, I could power PC and all seemed Ok. I then ran a stress test using Prime95 and watched statistics using HWMonitor. The peak power consumption was reported around 180W but average was around 160W - way less than stated 250W. The stress test worked for about 10 min or less and then PC shut down, which means failure. But on top of that it became so hot such that everything around was hot - I couldn't touch its wires, where it connected to a power adapter, I couldn't touch the PSU itself and even computer box was unusually warm. So it is risk of fire and, at least - it would damage motherboard and/or other parts of PC.On my current, regular, PSU I could run that stress test on the same PC for hours - actually once left it overnight and it never crashed. The only reason for this purchase is that I hate sound of PSU's fan, which is loudest even with best aftermarket fan I could find for that size. Looks like I'd better stick with noise of fan than risk with unstable computer and fire, literally.

I have one running my low power NAS 24/7 for over a month now without issue. Constant load of about 30 watts. The 12v 10 amp power brick + the internal breakout board uses about 2.5 watts idle on its own, and saves about 7 watts compared to my 450w ATX power supply at the same loads.My only complaints so far are how the cables attach to the internal breakout board. They attach at a right angle to the board facing the edge of the motherboard. This caused the cables to be in the way of a case fan on the edge of my mini-itx motherboard (had to remove the fan). I'd prefer if the cables came out parrellel to the board such that they're going straight out from the motherboard like a normal 12v cable.

Used to re-power a mini-itx based nvr in my vacation home. Machine is i5 and has two spinning rust drives so needs more than typical power. Last power supply gave up in the heat. This one gets warm but hasn't had a problem running 24/7 recording and serving for almost a year. Winter, Summer heat, and now coming around to winter again the machine never missed a beat. No problem fitting in mini-itx case with two drives and i5 heatsink and fan. Unit makes no sound and passive cooling from the cpu fan appears to be ok. Would buy again for my next mini pc build.

If this is your first time using this form factor, understand a key thing here:This is a 12v DC-DC Power Supply. Read: 12v. It may appear to be "working" (blue LED turns on) when you plug in something like a 19v (ie - your typical laptop AC adapter) but you're simply just over-volting it. Fortunately, the shorting protection within this unit seems to shut off output under this circumstance.So, if you're plugging in your adapter and see a blue LED immediately - check your voltage on your AC adapter. The indicator LED should only be turning on when you've turned on the PC this is powering.Another KEY thing to pay attention to:The input jack on this is 2.5mm, which again is similar to a decent chunk of laptop AC adapters. When you're acquiring your AC Adapter, please please please verify the connector tip's size. There are a decent number of adapters that will fit the requirements for this this:12v~10a2.5mm plug tipFinally, do pay attention to wattage here: This will output up to 240w, which should be sufficient for a good chunk of Mini ITX builds around. If you're absolutely SURE you need less, you should be fine with a power adapter that provides less than the 240w - but if you run into hot adapters, then you're likely needing something that provides more power (or, it could just be a bad adapter).This should save you a bit of time from the offset on ordering this item.

This PSU works but just falls apart too easy. The wires on one part were barely wedged in there and fell out without any pulling. Another couple wires that I noticed were loose ended up coming out from being bumped slightly. I'm only giving it 2 stars because it did power the computer before the wires fell out and after I hot glued them back in, so I guess it technically works. I'd like to say a picoPSU like this is good value for money, but no product like this that costs me $30 should be falling apart like that. At this point the PC is also powering off randomly when only pulling around 70W from this 250W PSU and a 120W Power Adapter, and I can't help but feel like it's because of this PSU having broken twice and being glued back together.If I'm trying to say anything positive, it was dead silent when powered on with no coil whine, and even when it was powered on once when I didn't realize a couple CPU 8-pin wires had come out a second time, it never caught flame or smoked, which says a little about it for a PicoPSULook somewhere else or consider a FlexPSU if your system can fit it.