Lift Master/Chamberlain Lift Master 195LM Ceiling Mount Kit

This worked perfectly for me. My new opener ended up really far from the nearest stud, making it almost impossible to mount the usual way, not to mention it would have looked terrible. I had to mount it in what the manual says is the less desirable way - perpendicular to the door - but that worked out just fine. The hardest part was getting a string line straight from the door to be sure I ended up in the right place - exactly.Its worth mentioning that you can only cut so much off the downrod. I was concerned at first because I needed to cut slightly more than the stated amount, but there is a little extra room. Also, for my other opener I may have to cut even more off the down-rod, but all that would mean is that the little round "beauty ring" that goes on last would have to be left off. So if you are close to the limit like I was it may not be a problem.Couple of caveats to watch for that tripped me up: First, the standard method of gauging clearance from the garage door is not very good. They recommend you lay a 2 X 4 on the open garage door and lay the rail on that to measure clearance, while supporting the opener on a ladder or something. Problem with that approach is that its easy to miss - as I did - that the rail is flexing a little - and the end result is that my rail was way too close to the door. I just cut a little more off the down-rod. Next time I'll skip the 2 X 4 and just measure the gap.Second, the instructions for calculating the down-rod size were a little inconsistent. The template provided and the instructions were almost 1/2" off so I wasn't sure which to follow.I bought a metal blade from HD and this cut like butter with a standard chop/miter saw.Fantastic product.

I couldn't be happier with this garage opener mount, not only does it look great but it is very sturdy and well designed!I've you've never had to mount an opener before you may be shocked to discover that 99% of openers to not come with any mounting hardware. Usually the manual provides a suggestion for how to use angle iron to build your own mount, it's a huge pain!Luckily I stumbled across this beauty while searching for other mounting options. This mount looks very professional and clean once installed.Some of my notes regarding installation:1. You will need to either use a hack saw or a electric metal saw to cut the main column to length. I used a hack saw and a miter box to cut mine which took a lot of elbow grease but I managed to get it done. My cut wasn't 100% square despite the miter box but it was fine since the bottom bracket is quite forgiving and hides a slightly uneven cut.2. You MUST make sure you are screwing the lag screws into studs. If you have drywall get a stud finder to find the center of the studs. I have an old home which has a metal lathe and plaster ceiling so finding the studs was a pain. I used the knocking trick and a tape measure to identify the stud locations but this took some time.3. The lag screws included are not super long, I decided to use a pair of longer lag bolts just to ensure it was deeper into the studs. Consider using longer screws if you want a more secure mount.4. The black finish can chip easily if you're not careful. Mine ended up with a few scuffs but it still looks great. Take care when cutting the main column and during mounting if chips would bother you.Installation is very easy overall and the end result is awesome.

This is going to be a long review...This kit is 95% there, and 5% not thought out well. That 5% that's missing is a huge portion of the function/ease of use.The good:* CLEAN!* Easy (if the instructions weren't rubbish...see below)* Priced VERY well (time isn't free and this saves a ton of time if the instructions weren't rubbish...see below)The bad:* The instructions say to measure the distance between the ceiling and the mounting holes on the opener. No problem. Then subtract 4". No problem. Then use the cutting guide to the tube to length. This is where the "fun" started. The instructions don't say that the cutting guide is printed on the box. Cool, creative place to put the guide. Maybe say "use cutting guide on the lid of the box". Next problem, the instructions don't say anywhere, nor does the box, that the dimensions on the box already have the 4" removed. We cut to distance minus 4" and ended up with a bar that was 4" too short because the box already has the 4" taken out. Maybe they could just ignore the 4" and say "use template on box" or say "template on box already accounts for 4" subtraction". Lots of ways to communicate this semi-coherently. They did not communicate this coherently at all.* Cutting an aluminum extrusion would be a nightmare for many homeowners. I have a ton of tools in my shop so it was no problem. There are also a number of ways to make a telescoping extrusion that would not need to be cut and would eliminate this and the above issue entirely.* The garage opener mount yolk (the piece that bolts directly to the opener) allows the opener to pitch. If this yolk had 4 mounting points, it would make the entire thing far more rigid. Many Chamberlain openers have a bar that is like a piece of rubber and this causes the opener to pitch wildly unless it is held rigidly.* Joists are typically 16" on center. The bracket that mounts to the ceiling is only 27" long. If you are not hanging the opener from the 16" between joists (if you mount this perpendicularly to the joists), you end up with a cantilever hanging the opener off the end of the bracket past your last bolt. This is crazy. Make the thing 34" long to allow a 32" span to cover 3 joists.2 stars because it eventually held my opener after cutting the bar too short and then using wood to mount the top bar lower.