Siraya Tech Blu 3D Printer Resin High Toughness Resolution Strong and Precise 3D Printing 405nm UV-Curing Rapid Resin for LCD DLP 8K 3D Printer (Obsidian Black, 1kg)

Pretty good. Does what it says on the label.

Finally a material that prints well. The only caveat it you must heat your resin to 90 degrees to print. I'm actually printing about 100 F. I've hated this printer since day one and never had a print once and done. However this material heated up prints a fairly strong and useful part on first go. This material has very good wear and doesn't warp after print. I do have some stretching during print. I used recommended setting and all is well.

I've been resin printing since 2017, using a Qidi S-Box (largest MSLA print at the time for under $1000), and since mid summer of that year, I started using Siraya Tech resins.I've used other brands, like anycubic, Elegoo, and bunch of other brands.But eventually I end up coming back to Siraya Tech, the quality of resin for the price is really good.Over the years I've used Tenacious, Blu original, Build Smoky Black, and many others.But recently this past month, I bought a Elegoo Saturn 4 ultra, and it's been since March of 2024 that I made my last resin print. So I wanted to see what Siraya Tech had to offer lately, and saw a sale on the Blue Tough Easy Grey.And I have to say, the stock resin profiles on the Siraya Tech website for the Saturn 4 ultra have been really great! I thought I would have to spend hours tweaking profiles to get perfect prints. But I just had to load the stock profiles and go, which is something I'm not use to. It even makes really decent prints on the Elegoo high speed mode.As far as odor,it's not that bad compared to other resins I've used, your still notice it but it's not a really strong smell.Toughness, I've been using it to prototype linear screw drives, and it has been holding up pretty well, I'm not 100% on the wear resistance.But either way, I'm like always, pleased with the quality and price of Siraya Tech products, so I end up buying 4Kgs of resin during their sale, used up 700Mls so far

Very tough, virtually no odor, very accurate. Needs to be at 25°C to print well, as it's fairly thick. Slightly translucent very dark blue/purple. Can be dyed opaque black with RIT Proline dye. (Don't waste your time trying to use the new consumer dye - it's garbage. The old stuff works if you have any though.)Best print settings with an Anycubic Photon Mono X seem to be 3 burn-in layers @ 14 sec. / 2.6 sec exposure time 50um layers.You need to be certain that the bottom of your build plate is flat and parallel to the LCD. I had to surface mine on a milling machine with a 6" flycutter to get it flat. Had to take off almost 0.010". If it's not dead flat you will probably have print failures.If you don't have a milling machine (why not?) then you should be able to get it flat with various grades of wet/dry sandpaper and a [minimum] 1/4" thick glass plate. Start with 80g and go up to about 320 max. in 4 steps. Start with 320 to see how far off it is first. If it's as far off as mine was, you will be there quite a while. Or mill it.Best way to get perfect prints (on any machine that uses the same clamping setup as the Mono X) - loosen the build plate screws , home the machine (do NOT put a piece of paper on the LCD - put your vat on the machine - empty, of course). Once the machine is homed, lightly press it against the LCD and tighten all the screws. Raise the build plate, loosen the clamp knob, and insert a piece of 0.003-0.005" thick paper between the build plate upper support and the carriage effectively raising the build plate by ~0.005". This also seems to damp some of the vibrations inherent in the machine resulting in better print detail. This only works on machines that clamp the plate to the carriage the way the Mono X (or regular Photon Mono) does it. BE CAREFUL - if you don't know what I'm talking about, don't try this - you may end up breaking your LCD.If you have difficulty getting prints off the base, try sticking it in a deepfreeze for a few hours. The print should just slide off. Put something under it in the deepfreeze to catch drips. Please note that any food in the freezer that isn't totally sealed will end up smelling/tasting like resin. Don't assume that something is sealed just because it's in a box. Ask me how I know...

Updated: Wish there was a separate review for each Blu resin, as each one has its own quirks and features. I finally got the nylon mecha to print what I wanted, and I think my issues coincided with software and hardware updates to the slicer and printer. Blu Lava Black came out great, and looks really promising for some applications I want to try and use it for. The print came out great, and dried/heat treated at 65C for 20min, then water cured for 10min. Part looks great semi-matte black finish.Blue Nylon Black has a bit of a bluish color to it. Made some lids, handles, and few other things with it, and has printed great every time I've used it. Has good impact strength, and should handle accidental falls of 3-4 feet no problem from parts I've performed drop tests on.I have had nothing but great experiences with Siraya Tech's filament and resins, and I haven't had a single failure while using any of their resins, until this one. A whole bottle, and not a single successful print. Used on a Saturn 4 Ultra using Siraya Tech's provided profiles for this printer, but I just getting failures in ways I've never seen. The failed parts that did come out look great, and surface finish as well the scratch resistant properties of the resin are really good. Just wish I would have actually had a working part after spending $70 and wasting 3 days. This stuff is thick and messy, with a lot of residual resin getting left behind, so make sure you clean well after using. Not a user friendly resin from this experience. That being said, this stuff is strong! I am really impressed with the strength of the parts I have made with this resin.