AEOTECZW150 Bypass for Nano Dimmer, Load Resistance and Dummy Load for Dimmer, Dimmer TRIAC to Solve Flickering Light Problems Black, Small,ZW-150

According to the instructions, this can be used in a 2 or 3 wire situation ie with or without a neutral. With a neutral the bypass is essentially wired in parallel with the bulb, without a neutral (as in most UK light switches) it seems to be wired in series.In my case, I used the bypass with the LightwaveRF small in line dimmer and a single Philips 5.5w GU10 bulb. I wired the bypass at the dimmer, not in the light fitting, where it goes between the neutral and the dimmer live to the bulb. It worked perfectly. Without the bypass, I would expect the bulb to flicker heavily, particularly as it’s dimmed because a single 5.5w bulb is not normally sufficient load for the dimmer. However, the bulb now works perfectly and dims smoothly right across the range. It also turns on when fully dimmed.So it really solves that problem of insufficient load and flickering lights.I don’t know how much it costs to run but it seems to be very little. The bypass is marked 1w so I take it that the maximum it will be adding is 1w and presumably less when dimmed.

Does exactly what it says it does - cured a problem where my LED lights would never turn off completely - just be very faintly on.I contacted Aeotec support which was just phenomenal (extremely quick responses from someone who clearly knew exactly what they were talking about, and who came across as a “real person genuinely interested in solving my problem”, as opposed to “person who happened to get my support ticket and will now read the FAQ at me until something works” which is unfortunately so common these days), and they recommended this bypass module for installations with very low load (5x7W in my case).The bypass was very simple to install, and cured the problem instantly.5 stars for both the product itself, as well as the awesome support from Aeotec which was as good as any I’ve had.

Used for lightwave RF. It worked but took a while to work out how.

I was having issues with some Tagra 4w dimmable LED bulbs still emitting a low glow when turned off (with Lightwave Gen2 L21/L22 dimmers). The Aeotec bypass completely fixed the issue. The bulbs now turn off, and dimming is smooth, no complaints here.

Bought it for my lightwaverf switch. The switch was set up to drive a socket. When load (floor lamp in my case) was unplugged from the socket the switch would lose power. This dummy load solved the issue.

I wired an Aeotec Dimmer to control 17 LED spotlights, the lights wouldn't quite dim properly and there would be a small amount of flicker. This device has eliminated both problems well. Aeotec support were great too!

Does not have enough resistance had to fit two to make it work ended up purchasing from another supplier for the rest of the house

does not work. I bought more than 10.

I recently purchased a Brilliant home control switch. I liked the idea of controlling multiple smart items throughout my home and gave this switch a try. Before installing the switch I could dim all my LED down lights throughout my kitchen and living room down to 1%. Once I installed the Brilliant switch all I got was flickering to the point it was dizzying. I contacted the company and they suggested sending out a new base unit. In the meantime I read online about dummy loads and who LEDs not drawing enough power for dimmer switches to work properly. So I tried this companies load simulator. It installed in about 30 seconds and in less time than that the difference was noticeable. I couldn’t be happier and my lights can now dim down to 1%. No humming from the Brilliant control at such low levels and hardly noticeable heat on the dummy load/load simulator. I’ve only tested it for a day but feel confident this was all I needed.

Added some Martin Jerry no-neutral light switches and got some Lutron LUT-MLC bypass as a gift. The Lutron devices did not work properly so ordered the Aeotec as a replacement. They work exactly as intended. A little pricey for what they are, but they just work.

I have 3 sconces on 1 dimmer. I switched them to LED bulbs and it just wouldn't work. They flickered even with the switch turned off. I play around and realize if I put 1 incandescent bulb in any of the lights, the flicker was gone. That's when I realized that it must require a certain amount of draw. But I hated that all 3 bulbs were not the same and didn't dim the same. So I started looking for a resister I could add and found this.It's super easy to install. Take the hot wire going to the light and wire it to either wire on this resister. Then attach the other wire to the light. Perfect!

After changing LED lights to more efficient models with a non-neutral dimmer, these store brand LEDs flashed like crazy, it was unusable (6x40W replacement LEDs). I first tried another major brand's bypass that has a capacitor and did not work in my case.Then bit the bullet and got this Aeotec Bypass and it fixed the issue. It's ridiculously expensive for what it is, but it works and it has been in production for years and even other dimmer manufacturers recommend it. Got if from Amazon using prime due to being the quickest delivery.

This dummy load put between the hot and neutral wires that is connected to the led light driver in the fan housing is the only thing that allows Lutron Caseta switches and dimmers to successfully turn on and off these LED petal ceiling fans. I even spent the money on PD-5WS-DV-WH on off no neutral wire switches that come with the LUT-MLC dummy load and those did not work until I added the AO Tech dummy load at the ceiling fan light power connections. Anywhere you install an LED light that is driven by a dimmer or smart switch that does not have a neutral wire in the switch outlet box, try this device to get the lights to work. I am really impressed.