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S**F
Excellent splitter. READ ON TO FIX HDCP ERRORS.
A solid little bi-directional splitter at a great price and the fact that it requires no additional power in order to operate is a huge bonus. Many others (including 1 directional splitters which are not a patch on this) require power to work correctly or at all, and can cost as much or more than this. It's very nicely made out of metal with a good solid weight to it, and the button has a good positive feeling click when switching source. Being very small means it's easy to hide away out of sight , but it would also look good should it be on full view. The HDMI ports are not gold plated, however they're a nice tight fit for HDMI plugs and I can't ever see a cable working loose, or bad connection causing problems. I actually bought this in the hope that it would remove the HDCP signal from my Virgin V6 box into my AVR, but sadly it doesn't remove HDCP. Despite this I'm more than happy and will certainly be keeping it due to how useful it is. I'm know it will come in very useful once I've finished setting up my computer/media room. THE HDCP FIX (for many). A quick run through my set up and the details first just to set the scene. My Virgin V6 Box, Blu-Ray Player, Fire TV Box, and PS4 are all connected into my Pioneer VSX1131 AV Receiver (Full HD + 4K). The AVR has 6 HDMI inputs and 1 to 3 are HDCP 2.2 compliant marked for, 1=BD/DVD, 2=CBL/SAT, 3=STRM-BOX, and 4 to 6 NON HDCP = 4=GAME CONSOLE, 5+6=SPARE (plus the usual Component & S/Video, etc' inputs, but these provide only 480i & 576i resolutions). The AVR main HDMI output goes to a fully HDCP Compliant LG - 4K - LED TV and everything works fine. The AVRs secondary HDMI output (HDMI SUB Output) goes to my BenQ 1080p 3D projector (P/J) which isn't HDCP compliant. Due to this the V6 will not send the picture to my projector (just displays a HDCP Error message), yet all other devices work perfectly. NOW THE FIRST FIX IF YOU DON'T HAVE AN AVR (or it doesn't work with your AVR). The solution is to use a suitable splitter in line (V6>Splitter>Non HDCP Device) to strip out the HDCP signal, thus preventing the V6 from detecting any Non HDCP devices. As I had found no info to say if this Techole splitter would or wouldn't remove HDCP, and due to the fact that it's bi-directional with no extra power requirements it was worth giving it a try first. Unfortunately THE TECHOLE ALLOWS HDCP THROUGH so isn't suitable for such uses (glad to now have this in my kit though and may even buy a second one in case the price rises). I am not going to recommend any splitters however as this review is for the Techole splitter, just do a quick web search and read the reviews and you'll quickly find the right splitter for the job. THE HDCP FIX FOR AVR OWNERS (worked for me). Luckily I had another good look on the web for a cheaper (or similarly priced bi-directional) splitter that could remove HDCP and found a recommendation to try a solution to the HDCP problem that I had totally overlooked. Simply swapping the V6 from the HDCP compatible HDMI Input 2 to the non HDCP compatible HDMI Input 4 on my AVR I discovered that the AVR does the job of stripping out the nightmare HDCP, and the V6 now works without any problems on both TV and P/J with the max resolutions and all of my surround sound formats fully working. When watching the LG TV I still only need the V6 remote for all operations including volume of the AVR speakers, and for the P/J only 2 remotes are needed, the backlit AVR remote for volume and the V6 remote for all other actions (I may some day invest in a programmable remote if it's capable of controlling all features, but it's certainly not vital). As for the PS4 now connected to the AVRs HDCP compliant HDMI Input No2, I've fully tested and checked it out and found absolutely no problems what-so-ever using it with the TV or P/J despite still having HDCP turned on. I know that HDCP can be switched off on the PS4 allowing gameplay and recording on non HDCP devices, but it so called needs to be switched back on for video/blu-ray playback and certain streaming apps. However for some reason the PS4 is working fine with HDCP on, which strongly suggests that Virgins V6 is as bad as it's so far proven it's self to be, at least in the 10 months that I've had it, not much contract left now so will be looking at the far superior SkyQ. At the end of the day I didn't need anything other than what I already owned, with no extra connections or devices in line, and no additional expense. I hope this info helps anyone else with an AVR and Non HDCP compliant devices, even without an AVR people should be able to easily find a splitter to remove the HDCP signal in order to sort out any compatibility issues.
P**R
Handy Hint
Handy hint... If you are like me and have an older 1080 compatible TV and need to connect an Amazon Firestick, Freeview box and Blue-Ray player and only have 2 input ports on the TV.... connect the Amazon Fire stick to one of the ports and the other two via the splitter/switch. If you use one of the splitter/switch inputs for the Fire stick it doesn't work.
A**N
Fantastic little box
Surprisingly good considering its size. Its just bigger than a 50p coin, so you could easily hide this behind your tv/monitor or your source. It has many uses since you can either use it as a 2 input / 1 output or a 2 output / 1 input. Im using it for a 2 in / 1 out for my PC and PS4 setup.Its very easy to install, and no additional power needed. All plug and play. No HDMIs included. Id recommend getting a really short HDMI for the single port and decently long HDMIs for the other 2 unless you have all 3 points right next to each other.It came nicely packed to avoid damage and there is a diagram to show how to set it up. To top it off, It comes with a 3 years free warranty! If you are looking for
L**4
Works as it should
Needed this as I had 1 too many things with HDMI leads, never needed one before so had no idea what I was looking for but after reading reviews I went for this one and hoped for the best. It's really compact and simple which is what I wanted. I have my Wii u and PS4 connected and then a lead connected to the tv (I didn't think about how I was going to connect it to the tv when buying but luckily I had a spare HDMI cable), it has a light to show you what port is running and a simple switch to change from port 1 and 2. No issues with picture at all and all cables fit in snug so no falling out. Great item
F**.
Bought for uculus, works like a charm.
having a laptop with one hdmi port was putting wear on both my screen and vr cable.splitters dont work with vr, but switches do.got a random hdmi 2.2 cable (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01K1X63CO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and it works perfect.just plugt them together, got it on screen by default, press the button, open oculus.no lagg, no artifacts. when done close off oculus software, press again and its back on screen.
R**W
For PS4 users.
'No external driver and power needed' - well, it's not entirely true in this case. :\I have one 27" monitor, a gaming laptop and a PS4, however I can't use the PS4 alone through the switch (laptop is either in standby or powered off completely) because it can't provide enough juice for the switch.So although the aforementioned sentence is somewhat true, still a bit misleading.I have two choices then:1. Leave on the laptop - which I, most of the time, don't really want to when I turn on the PS4.2. Get a new HDMI switch with a proper external power supply. :\Conclusion: I have a spare switch now I can't really use.As I was reading through the reviews most people have no problem using the switch and my issue is a bit specific although it's a valid problem (google it up on PS4 forums) - so I figured it was worth to mention.
Trustpilot
1 month ago
2 months ago