Streamlight 88061 ProTac 1L-1AA 350-Lumen Dual Fuel Professional Tactical Light, Black

Have used this light for three months as an every day carry item without a hitch. The light seems very durable. I really like the ability to use AAA, AA, and CR battery types. Also the programming capability lets you customize the light to your use preferences. I recommend this light. Brightness settings on low and high beam meet my expectations and needs.

My “go-to” flashlight! It can run on three different batteries. AA, AAA, and CR123. I always keep one on my belt, one in my truck, and one for my emergency kit. I promise you won’t be disappointed. The light is super bright and has a nice throw. Strobe feature is really nice as well. Adjustable light output with a few clicks is another awesome feature!

Works great, multi-power sourced, batteries last and it has a nice belt case. I will be buying more of these.

To save my "night vision" when using this Light, I picked up a Nitecore NFR23 (23mm red filter). It fits perfectly on my ProTac 1L1-1AA

Streamlight is good to go. Nice small hand held light with two different power sources.

Good product for the price. Pocket clip is strong and functional. Nice that it can be clipped to a hat without having to take the clip off and flip it backwards. Nicely redesigned. Light is bright with a neutral tint. Low is useful at 40 lumens, high is well suited for a variety of tasks both indoors and outdoors. NOTE: I am referring to 350 lumens high setting with a CR123 battery. The dual fuel capability is versatile and more and more lights will probably have this feature moving forward. Comparing the beam to a Streamlight ProTac 1L (180 lumen CR123 light) the hot spot in the 1L-1AA is larger and hotter. It fills more space with more light giving better peripheral vision. The low setting of 40 lumens is (IMO) more effective for indoor tasks that require more than 12 lumens but not 180 (high ProTac 1L) or 350 (high for 1L-1AA with CR123). This gives enough light to easily see indoors without going through your battery too fast. The light feels nice in the hand. It's slightly longer than the ProTac 1L and the tail cap has knurling which adds a more secure feeling when you hold it.Now I want to talk batteries. There is a rechargeable that is safe to use with these lights. You can also use these batteries with Surefire lights. Amazon sells them. Here is a link.K2 Energy LFP123A Rechargeable Li Ion 3.2V Battery Replaces CR123A - SingleThese batteries are fully charged at 3.65v. They can be used safely to 2.8v. They have a nominal capacity of 600mAh. The chemistry is Lithium Iron Phosphate or LiFePO4. They maintain a steady 3.2v. This means your light will maintain a high level of light output. If using the light for a long time the microprocessor may stage down the light output because of thermal regulation, but not due to the voltage dropping. 3.2v is maintained for more than 90% of the charge cycle. Once the light enters "low mode" turn the light off, and charge them up. Simple. Over discharging can damage them. The runtimes are decent in the Streamlights I own. Protac 1L, ProTac 1L-1AA. I also use this in a Gen 2 Surefire Fury, 600 lumens. (no runtime test yet conducted on the Surefire with these batteries) It saves money in the long run and the fact that you can charge them up at any time means you will not have to guess how much power is in your light. When you turn on your light, you're getting max output, sustained. One battery charges in 80 min and 2 batteries charge in 160 minutes. Those charge times reflect 2.8v up to full at 3.65v. I use the charger that came with the batteries made by the same company. There is a picture in the link above. You can charge these batteries ONLY in a charger that specifically states it can charge LiFePO4 batteries! Here is another example:XTAR VP2 Independent 2-Channel Battery Charger w/ Dual Voltage Display, USB Power Bank for 18560 and similar Lithium Ion and LiFePO4 Cells (Simple Kit - no Car Charger included, A/C adapter only)Do not charge above C/1. The capacity is 600mAh so charge at NO MORE THAN 600mA or .6A. Really 300mA (.3A) to 500mA (.5A) is safe and still fast. Keep a spare set with you and be ready. Most chargers come with or offer a car adapter to charge on the go.Asp Law Enforcement CR123A Link Case (Pack of 4)*update*It's now Fri, 25 Aug 2017. After having this light for several months, I change my rating from 5 stars down to 4 stars. Here's why: The body of the light is too smooth. The knurling on the tail cap is not aggressive enough to provide a secure grip. The body having no knurling on it baffles my mind. The light output, beam quality, function, etc all remain excellent. The pocket clips dual use feature is still awesome. It simply needs to feel more secure in hand. I am still using and loving K2 LiFePO4 cells in this light.

The purpose of this review is to describe additional subtle differences between genuine and fake flashlights.The background story is that I bought this light because I had a handful of CR123 batteries that weren't good enough to drive a smoke detector but still registered reasonable life on a voltmeter -- so I wanted to use those up rather than dispose of good batteries, but I didn't want to be locked into a CR123-only light.I initially bought a light from what looked like a reputable seller on eBay. The light arrived and as far as I could tell, both packaging and light looked genuine. Other reviewers have pointed out that fake lights:1. don't include batteries2. don't have a SL logo on the button3. have a black-colored tailcap gasket (instead of orange)4. does not have springs on both ends of the light to hold the batteryThe light I received did not have any of these issues so I felt pretty good about having received a genuine light.However, some reviews also point out that in addition to all of the above, counterfeit lights also cannot be programmed using SL's Ten-tap system, and this was true of my light. When I tried to program the light using Ten-tap, the light would stay on with the 10th click/hold, rather than extinguish like a real light. So, I started to wonder if this was actually a fake light.I ordered another light directly from Amazon (Amazon was the vendor) which I received today and it appears that this new light is genuine. When I stare at the two lights and packaging side-by-side, the differences are EXTREMELY subtle, to the point that I had to wonder if the original light simply had a malfunctioning Ten-tap and that the differences I was seeing were simple manufacturing variance.On the attached photos, the suspected counterfeit light is on the top, and the real light (shipped from Amazon proper) is on the bottom.Here are the additional differences that I have found:1. The ink used on the real light is a bit thicker than the counterfeit one - the fake one has ink that is slightly translucent and makes it look a bit like a factory second. This is really subtle and difficult to tell unless you have a real/fake side-by-side.2. The word "TEN-TAP" on the flashlight is the same height and font size as the adjacent word "PROGRAMMABLE". On the fake one the "TEN-TAP" is just slightly more squished and lower height than the adjacent word, as if the aspect ratio were off.3. The line spacing of the text above and below "Patented" is equal on the real light whereas on the counterfeit lightthe S/N line is much closer to "Patented" than is the "TEN-TAP" line. Again unnoticeable unless you are aggressively comparing a real and counterfeit light side-by-side.4. The machining of the knurling on the tailcap is different. On a legitimate light, there is a slight 3D depth to the texture -- the grooves are both wide AND deep enough to catch a fingernail. The fake light has a texture that is smoother and with grooves that are more shallow.5. The lanyard hole on the real light was smaller than the one on the fake light I received (see pic #2)6. The overall texture of the light on the fake light had a textured glossiness (but very smooth to the touch) vs. a more textured matte finish on the genuine light (pic #2)7. On the pocket clip there are two cutout notches flanking the long part of the clip that are oriented parallel to the axis of the light -- they are slightly longer on the real light than the fake light (pic #3)8. The button/switch action is much smoother and easier to depress with the genuine light9. FInally, on the packaging, the fake light had a California Prop 65 cancer warning (the real one didn't, surprisingly.) On both packages (real and fake) the cardboard insert had a cutout that showed the flashlight -- the real packaging had a corresponding cutout on the plastic packaging while the fake one had plastic covering the cutout.So, that's it. These are immensely subtle differences and without an actual side-by-side comparison, I think they would be quite difficult to identify in isolation. Good luck out there!