Honeywell TH3110D1008 Pro Non-Programmable Digital Thermostat, 1 Pack, White

This is for the TH3110D1008.It is a one heat stage, one cooling stage non-programmable thermostat. It has the capability of operating a heat pump, but if you have backup or emergency heat, it will not work properly for that. I have never seen a heat pump without backup/emergency heat, so I do not recommend this unit for heat pumps.I have installed this model on all my rental houses, most of them originally had programmable thermostats, and all of which have one stage cooling and one stage of electric heat as they are in SE Florida and as we only need to run the heat for a few days a year it makes no economic sense to install more elaborate heating equipment in this part of the country.It has completely cut out the problems and questions my tenants were having regarding programmable thermostats.I also like this model because it can be powered from the air handler instead of from batteries. I wire these with the C wire, which eliminates the need to use batteries. This also eliminates complaints from my tenants when the batteries die on the thermostat and they do not know what to do. Most people that rent are not handy and do not want to fool with any house problems, no matter how minor.If you have a one stage cooling system with electric or gas/oil forced air heat, here is what you need to wire:Red wire (24 VAC) from air handler to the R terminalBlue (usually, could be another color) wire (common) from air handler to the C terminalYellow wire (cooling) from air handler to the Y terminalGreen wire (fan control) from air handler to the G terminalWhite wire (heat) from air handler to the W terminalExcept for the common wire, the colors above are very common, although your colors may vary. The point is, to wire the R, C, Y, G, and W terminals on the thermostat to the corresponding functions on your air handler. All the thermostat does is connect 24 VAC from the R terminal to the Y terminal when it calls for cooling, 24 VAC to the G terminal when the thermostat is to operate the indoor fan, and 24 VAC to the W terminal when the thermostat calls for heating. It is really that simple.If you have electric heat, the thermostat will turn on the fan when it calls for heat. If you have gas or oil forced air heat, the furnace will very likely have a thermostat that will turn on the fan after the gas/oil flame has heated up the heat exchanger, and once the thermostat heat setting is satisfied, that furnace based thermostat will turn off the fan once the heat exchanger cools down.However, even when you have the thermostat set for gas/oil heat, the thermostat WILL CONTROL THE FAN when it is cooling mode if it is properly configured.A common problem with gas/oil furnaces is the failure of this thermostat, so if you have fan control problems with gas or oil forced air furnaces, you need to check the fan control thermostat in the furnace before blaming this thermostat.Also, depending on the type of heating system you have, besides the electric or gas/oil slide switch on the back of the thermostat, there are a few other settings that you should configure for optimal satisfactory operation. It is easy to do, and the included directions explain what you must do, and this is done by the raise/lower buttons on the front of the thermostat that are normally used to raise and lower the temperature.(Don't confuse this configuration programming with the functions of a programmable thermostat.)If you are replacing a thermostat that uses batteries, and want to power your new thermostat from the air handler, please note that it is possible (likely) that the blue wire (if you have one, and the common wire is usually blue but could be another color) is not hooked up to your present thermostat, and it is not hooked up at the air handler as well. If you want to avoid using batteries, in that event you will need to open up the air handler and connect the blue wire to the common connection in the air handler. The common connection is connected to the grounded metal frame of the cabinet in every air handler I have ever worked on.If you only have 4 wires from your air handler to where the thermostat is installed (because that is all that a battery operated (or older mechanical) thermostat needs to control heating, cooling, and fan), then you will need to run a new wire from the air handler or furnace to the thermostat, install an add-a-wire accessory to trick the system into thinking there is a 5th wire, or just resign yourself to use batteries. Here is a link to the add-a-wire accessory.https://www.amazon.com/Venstar-ACC0410-Wire-Accessory-Thermostats/dp/B01IF3QXMC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519606131&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=diode+for+thermostat+5th+wire#customerReviewsThe point is to not even install the batteries, since when the power to the air handler is off, the thermostat is useless anyway; why bother with them.The thermostat functions very well. It maintains the temperature to 1 degree of your set point (assuming your heating and cooling equipment has the proper capacity to maintain the set temperature). It will remember the heat and cooling set points -- i.e. when you set the heat set point, and switch to cooling, when you switch back to heating it will remember the previously set heating set point, and it remembers the settings after a power outage.The display is back lit and simultaneously displays the set point and current temperature, and it seems to be well made. I have installed 11 of these with no failures and no problems.

All was good. Thank You.

At this time works as described no issues

This is an interesting story. Fifteen years ago, I bought a new electric furnace, and it came with a programmable thermostat model that looks just like the new manual one I just bought and am now reviewing, you had to program it for all seven days of the week plus date and time, a real nightmare ill-conceived device. Not to mention it was almost impossible to override the auto function if you should accidently want to adjust temperature manually. What a piece of work. Hats off to whoever designed it. In addition, it would cycle off and on about every two minutes. I called the furnace installer and described the rapid cycling and asked if there was any way to make it come on and off at more reasonable period of time. In other words, let the temperature drop a few degrees before coming back on. After all, if you could program it to heat your house 24/7 maybe they had made it sophisticated enough that it had a hidden menu for adjusting cycling time or even the ability to override auto program. His response was nope, what you see is what you get.Anyway, I lived with that thermostat for fifteen years. I was so ignorant on how thermostats worked that I researched it in order to buy another one when it died! Fortunately, it had been discontinued, But I discovered the manual version on Amazon (I bought two). As I was buying them, I thought to myself wouldn't it be amazing if whoever designed it accidently made it to fit the same wall attachment bracket and the same wiring configuration as the old worn out auto programmable model. But I knew the chance for this was very slim.The day arrived, the amazon van showed up and the package delivered. I installed the batteries, said a little prayer and proceeded to snap into place, perfect fit. I then manually adjusted the temperature and moments later heard my furnace quietly start up, with the old thermostat startup always began with the fan motor making a loud bumping sound, not now, smooth and quiet for the first time! Temperature was brought up and precisely shut off quietly. I then waited to see if it did the rapid two-minute cycling, 15 minutes later the furnaced quietly cycled on again. What an amazing difference. Now I can hardly tell when the furnace is running.I can't wait to see how fast it cycles in the winter when its cooler outside I believe the whole system will now be more energy efficient, enough to pay for the new manual thermostats in the first year. Call me old fashioned but manual thermostat is the way to go. I will try to remember to update this saga this winter stay tuned.

I REPLACED MY NO NAME THERMOSTAT THAT WAS UP STAIRS IN MY SPLIT LEVEL HOUSE , WHICH WAS A BAD LOCATION FOR ME . THIS ONE WAS EASY TO HOOK UP AND NOW I HAVE IT DOWN STAIRS WHICH MAKES IT EASIER FOE ME TO CONTROL THE TEMPERATURE IN THE HOUSE . NO PROBLEM SO FAR AND I DON'T EXPECT ANY .