DEUTER Bike Trainer Stand Resistance Adjustable - Portable Magnetic Bicycle Rollers Indoor Exercise/Fitness/Workout - Foldable Fully Aluminum Alloy with Tote Bag for Travel

The only minor issue, again very minor issue is one of the hex screws and bolts are missing from the clamps that hold the support stands in place. I can use it, but I won't until I can get the parts. This product is safe to use and it will fit any bicycle. The design makes it possible to extend or retract so that your bicycle will fit. Good engineering and design. Very accurate description!

Don’t waste your money this is the worst roller trainer I have ever tried. The tubing doesn’t have a secure fit and the magnetic resistance is too powerful for any bike, even after removing all the magnets from the flywheel I was still struggling to pedal smoothly in my granny gear. The amount of movement and noise from this trainer is dreadful, I returned this product the very next day after I received it in the mail. I recently purchased an echelon spin bike which is unbelievably quiet and fun to ride and stay in shape. Hopefully someone find this review helpful before they waste their time and money!

This is a super long, detailed review. Hopefully it can help you decide if these rollers are for you. I've broken it into sections in case you don't want to read the whole thing and just have specific questions. Nobody is paying me to write this, nobody offered me anything to write this. I bought these rollers with my own money, and just wished there had been more information to help me decide when considering these rollers. I bought this unit knowing it probably wasn't up to the level of the same type of unit made by the major manufacturers, which typically cost around $400. These are simply MY observations after having put about 200 miles on a set of these rollers. Read on to find out all about it.WHY DID I BUY IT? : I wanted a small unit that was easy to set up and pack away as small as possible; I have a custom built gravel bike with an Internally Geared Hub (Alfine 11 speed), which rules out using ANY kind of rear wheel trainer; I wanted something to use a few days a week during the winter; I don't do Zwift or TrainerRoad or any other type of virtual riding/training. For those who are interested, I ride Road, Gravel, MTB - all with my gravel bike. I can hold around 360 watts for over an hour (before I pass out).HOW DOES IT PERFORM? : Straight out of the box, it works - once you set it up CORRECTLY (see below). As I said it "works", but I understand why others have complained about it being hard to use/pedal - the bearings in the drums are 6201's with bearing shields on both sides, and packed full of some pretty seriously thick/sticky grease, which leads to quite a lot of resistance (see HOW DO I MAKE THESE BETTER below).IS IT STABLE? : Yes, I find it to be very stable. I can sprint in the drops, I can get out of the saddle and crank like you would going uphill, I can easily sit up and ride no handed while drinking, changing the channel on the TV, etc. The rear wheel can move side to side a bit, so it feels more like real riding than using a rear wheel trainer. Others have mentioned the front swaying side to side - I do not find that at all if set up CORRECTLY (see below). I can mount the bike with no step using a cyclocross mount/dismount with no problem.WHAT'S THE TRICK TO SETTING IT UP? : First, you need to mount the fork on the front support and then extend the center extension tube until the rear drums are under the rear wheel. Then choose the proper height for the front fork mount using the quick release pin. Choose a height that puts your bike as close to normal as you can (i.e. how high your front axle would be with your front wheel on. Then you can use the adjustable feet on the Rollers Frame to make sure your rear axle is at the same level. Once that's done, then measure the distance between to the rollers (there are 3 positions for mounting the rear roller to accommodate different size bikes and/or tires). Anyway, once you have the rollers positioned, measure the distance between the rollers, then use a piece of tape to mark exactly halfway between the rollers. Then adjust the center extension tube so the the tape lines up exactly with the rear axle. This ensures your rear wheel is centered over the rear drums. With that set up, there is some play in the center extension tube and where is connects to the rear rollers. You need to make sure that this is perfectly straight - if it's not, the rear wheel will ride up towards the side of the rear drums. Move the rear drum unit side to side (very small amounts, maybe 1/2" at a time) until it is centered. You will know it is centered when you can turn the cranks and the rear wheel remains centered on the drum.Once that's done, make sure that you position the front legs correctly. The rubber end on the leg has a flat spot, or foot. Make sure that is facing down. Then tighten the bolts for the legs and the front fork support. Make sure the bolts are tight and there is no play in the legs, and especially the front fork support. Now you're ready to rideWHAT'S IT LIKE TO PEDAL ON THESE? : Once it's set up correctly, it's just like pedaling your bike outside...if you were riding into a stiff headwind. What I mean by that is that these rollers are smallish diameter, and there is no flywheel. So you lose momentum as soon as you stop pedaling (like lots of other rollers, including the $400 competition, as well as any wheel on mag trainer). So there is no coasting. I don't see this as a problem as I view these rollers as a training tool for getting stronger on the bike.WHY IS IT SO HARD TO PEDAL? : If you are having a hard time riding on these, here are some possibilities:1. these are not $400 rollers. The tolerances and manufacturing are not as high. It's still quite good in my opinion, but it's possible you got a bad unit.2. you're using the wrong tire and/or tire pressure. These will work best with tires from 23C to 38c, with A SMOOTH TREAD. Using a big, fat, and/or treaded tire, or low tire pressure on these will just be punishment. And these will work best with tires at higher pressures. Obviously rider weight plays a role here, but suffice it to say, run the highest pressure you safely can while using these. You want the tire to deform as little as possible on the rollers. Tire width comes back into play here too, as you can run higher pressures in skinnier tires (for the most part). I've found that running my 700x32C tubeless tires at about 65 PSI is MUCH easier that running my 700x38C tires at 50 PSI.3. Cadence - these rollers, like most others, are designed for riding like you do on the road. Which means pedaling at a higher cadence, at least 60 rpm, better at 90 rpm. Choose a gear that allows you to pedal without too much difficulty at 90 rpm. Then you can work on getting strong enough to pedal the next harder gear at 90 rpm. This is also affected by the fact that there is no momentum with these types of rollers, so having a smooth fluid pedal stroke will work best. Trying to mash a big gear at 40 rpm is not what these are for. IT'S A TRAINER...A TRAINER...the idea is that you train to have a better pedal stroke and get stronger.4. You have all the magnets in and you aren't strong enough to ride with that much resistance at the higher RPM's you should be riding at. Remove the magnets and see if it's better. THE MORE MAGNETS YOU HAVE ATTACHED, THE MORE IMPORTANT IT IS TO RIDE AT A HIGHER RPM TO MAINTAIN MOMENTUM.5. Just like riding on the road, you will use your gears to make it easier or harder to pedal.6. Bearings - see the next sectionHOW DO I MAKE THESE BETTER? : I pulled mine apart and found that the bearings in the drums are 6201's with bearing shields on both sides, and packed full of some pretty seriously thick/sticky grease, which leads to quite a lot of resistance. I removed the bearings and checked them against some higher end 6201 bearings I have lying around and found them to be very similar. So it's not like the bearings are terrible, but they are, quite literally, a drag. So I removed the bearings, removed the shields, cleaned out the bearings, and packed them with a lighter, higher quality bearing grease. This made a huge improvement - spinning the rollers with my hands, the rollers would now spin 1-2 rotations, whereas before the would spin maybe 1/2 rotation.Also note that the bearings axle is threaded on each end. There is a nut on each side that threads on the axle to hold the bearings in place. This nut then has a "pocket" on it. The Roller Nut (which holds the roller on the the roller frame) screws onto the axle and into the pocket on the axle nut. The axle nuts need to be tight enough to hold the bearings in place with no play, but if it's too tight, it will cause additional resistance. When tightening the Roller Nut during initial setup, I find it best to use a 17mm cone wrench to hold the axle nut in place while installing the Roller Nut to make sure the axle nut is not pressing on the bearing and causing additional resistance.WHAT KIND OF RESISTANCE/POWER CAN I GET WITH THESE? : As you can see in the pictures, the manual states that using all 4 magnets puts the resistance at 20% HIGHER than riding on the road, 2 magnets is 20% LESS than riding on the road, 1 magnet 40% LESS, and no magnets 60% LESS. Even with the better grease in the bearings, this is WILDLY INACCURATE. I would rate no magnets as being 20% easier than riding on the road, and 4 magnets about the same as riding on the road.Also in the pictures you can see the power profile which states that you can do 600 watts at 85KPH. Serioulsy? That's 54 MPH! Who does 54 MPH on a trainer?!?!? The way I have my Alfine 11 set up, my gearing tops out at 27.5 mph/44KMH. The chart show this as ~250 watts with 4 magnets attached. I know in the real world I'm pushing ~450 watts to do that speed on flat ground with 32C tires. And riding with the new bearing grease and all 4 magnets gets me to about 440 watts to do 27.5 MPH @ 90 RPM on the trainer.Bottom line, you can push a fair amount of wattage on this trainer, but you will probably be trying to do 110+ RPM in your 11 tooth to achieve something like 600 watts.THE MAGNETS DON'T SEEM TO DO ANYTHING: I found that I couldn't tell any difference with or without the magnets until I repacked the bearings (see above)IS IT WORTH THE MONEY? : That depends on how you feel about the $400 units. If you feel those are worth $400, then yes, I would say this one is worth the $185 I paid for it.SHOULD I GET ONE? : I would say that this would be great for taking to races to warm up/cool down, no question. Comes with a great storage/travel case, and includes the tools necessary to set it up and tear it down. Can be set up/taken down in just a couple of minutes, and has enough resistance for most people to get the blood really pumping.I don't think it was designed for use as something that will be used for several hours every day. I think it is good enough to be used as an indoor trainer for a couple of hours a few days a week during the off season.OTHER THOUGHTS:I don't find this to be any louder than any other trainer I've used. The faster you go, the louder it gets, like any other trainer.My experience thus far is that there is not any significant tire wear using these - definitely less than riding on the road (assuming a slick tire, of course).It's useable without having to repack the bearings, but you can expect more resistance (more work) while pedaling. I imagine after some use the factory grease and bearings will "wear in" a bit and make it not quite as difficult.If you want to use it with a mountain bike with 2.6" tires, expect to wear out your granny gear and get the name of a good knee surgeon

Easy to put together. Comes with a great tote bag for easy storage. It can get noisy sometimes, but it's really not loud. Just rumbly. Rides smoothly, but note that the rollers don't keep rolling if you stop pedaling. You won't coast. That's a good thing since there's a bit of resistance added to the mix.

I like the bike trainer a-lot but it not for me. It feels like it is made of high quality materials too. But I live in an apartment on a higher floor and this trainer is very loud. And it shakes the floor and walls when riding. It also has a lot of resistance and unridable with all magnets on it. I think this trainer will be perfect for someone who wants resistance when riding and does not care about noise. This would do well on a concrete garage floor.

I don't know what's wrong but the rollers should roll with no magnets attached. It seems like the bearings or the spacers are to blame. Precision bearings should roll very easily. Even with the bike mounted and no magnets this should be a Sunday stroll. It isn't. Pedaling in an easy gear isn't easy. I cycle at least three times a week on hilly roads and this just seems harder.

Easy setup and durable. Great work out

Love this trainer. Previously I was on a direct drive trainer which is so stiff and felt labored to use. As long as you have a powermeter and a speed sensor you can ride this with most training apps. I used some automotive grease for all the joints and it quiets the ride a ton. Use it before races and to train.