Birchwood CaseyFast-Drying Long-Lasting Water-Resistant Oil-Based Tru-Oil Stock Finish Bottle, 32 Ounce

This stuff is amazing! I used it on a project guitar because I don’t have the patience for polyurethane. I took a torch to the body of my guitar and I loved how it came out. After sanding it, the contrast between the burns got dulled out. I was bummed until I put a couple of coats of Tru-Oil on it. It darkened up some of the burns and restored the contrast that I was originally looking for. Application was a breeze. I can’t recommend this enough.

Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil is my go-to finish for nearly all my woodworking projects. Applies easily with a folded up blue shop towel. Dries relatively fast allowing multiple coats per day, if desired. Fills grain and sands well after curing. Mixes well with BLO and mineral spirits 1/3 + 1/3 = 1/3 for a very economical "Danish Oil". Provides very good protection without looking like "plastic". Can be buffed with a Scotch-Brite pad or 0000 steel wool after fully cured for a beautiful satin sheen finish. No harsh odor. Very subdued, pleasant smell. I suggest using a stop-loss bag to keep the oxygen out to increase its longevity.

Dries pretty fast nice, clear and thick finish. Be sure to use a lint free cloth. Very nice product for gun stocks and gripps.

I've been a huge shellac fan for many years, and when I did my first knife handle, I used the world's most perfect finish. It didn't take long to remind myself that shellac blushes when it gets moist. This has never been a problem for boxes, furniture, or even tool handles, but knives get used outdoors in rough conditions, and they get held in sweaty or bloody palms. Shellac just wasn't going to work, so after a 20 year love affair with my favorite 17th century bug resin, I had to keep looking. I already knew I hated a variety of other finishing products, but I had almost tried Tru-Oil once, so I decided to give it a try.First of all, I never would have bought the giant 32 oz. bottle if I had appreciated how far this stuff goes. I poked a hole in the foil, and I store the bottle upside down, but when I took these steps I had no idea the foil was going to become my dispenser. It only took a couple of jobs for me to realize it was pointless to pour some out into a container, because the tiny bit on top of the foil is enough oil to do an entire coat on a knife handle. On occasion, I have to put my finger over the hole and tilt the bottle back to get a second reserve of oil, but I'm generally better off using that one and only tiny little puddle, and working it around with one finger until it covers everything.On the negative side, this is an oil finish that takes a relatively long time to dry, so it can pick up dust. It doesn't like being built up in thick layers, and thinner is better. Much thinner. No, thinner than that. With 12 to 24 or sometimes even longer for each coat to firm up, getting a finish built up is a process of returning to the piece over a series of days or even weeks.On the positive side, this is an extremely forgiving finish that blends seamlessly with previous coats. Did you find a patch of rough grain or a little hump that isn't quite contoured to your liking? Just sand through the finish into the bare wood, do what you have to do, and maybe do one coat just on the bare areas before continuing the build up as normal. Unlike shellac, the final film seems to be pretty uniform after such treatment, as opposed to having light areas where the rework took place.With very little actual time spent working and no real competence with the finish, it is possible to get a result that looks similar to a French polish. My completed knife handles have a smooth, glassy, slightly grippy finish that very much puts me in the mind of a well-made stock on a nice American-made rifle. It may be that they actually do use this finish on gunstocks. Imagine that.I am extremely impressed. This finish is pretty much boiled linseed oil (BLO) with some "chemical dryers" to get it to cure faster. BLO was on the list of finishes I tried and hated, but whatever "chemical dryers" are, they are apparently magical. This finish is wonderful, and I am going to try it on a larger wood project soon. I have a chess board I did in my usual shellac, and I'm starting to wonder how it would look under about 10 coats of Tru-Oil.I will be sure to buy the smaller bottle next time, however.

I used this to finish a guitar with a mahogany back and a maple top. I applied stain to the back to get it to look red and on the top to bring out the curl of the maple. Applied and nothing else. About 10 to 12 coats with some light sanding in between. It turned out very nice with a good sheen. Very easy to use. You should use gloves. I used blue shop towels to apply. Just make sure your work space is protected because drips happen.

I'm using this to refinish a gun stock made of mahogany (I know, it should be walnut, but it's not). Anyway, I've read that Tru Oil is the preferred finish of gun officianados, so that's what I'm using. The only problem with using pure Tru Oil is that it takes a long time to dry between coats.Many people speak of the miraculous "elixer" formed by using Tru Oil mixed with or applied on top of Armor All. Reports indicate that this works, but I didn't like the idea of mixing unknown stuff, and expecially silicone, into my finish, so I have not tried it.HOWEVER, I have just discovered that mixing my espresso "Old Masters" gel stain with the Tru Oil before applying it works wonderfully well and dries much MUCH faster than the Tru Oil alone (and for that matter, faster than the stain alone). I've only just started doing this, but it seems to work, and the gel stain seems to cause the Tru Oil to dry / set much faster than it would normally, much like the speed-up reported by the people who have used it with Armor All.So, just to summarize, I've been mixing about (very approximate) 2 parts Tru Oil with 1 part gel stain, and so far am getting excellent, fast-drying results.

Used on walnut wood. Followed recommended use. Truly an outstanding product

I use this on gun stocks, furniture and all my wood projects! You can make it as shiny as a new guitar, satin finish or dull. Wipe it on wipe it off. After 5 or 8 times, professional finish!

I am using this product to finish a solid wood countertop on my kitchen island. I have used this product before. It is an excellent product. Very durable and a beautiful hand rubbed finish. But it takes patience. I am putting about 15 coats on the countertop. Worth the effort. The product is what I expected. But what really impressed me was the customer service. This product is manufactured in the US but for some reason all I have been able to find is the 3 oz bottles locally. On Amazon, I found and ordered a 32 oz bottle from United Kingdom. As expected the projected deliver time was quite long - about 6 weeks. But it showed up amazingly quickly. Great customer service! Thank you.

My father has used this product for years restoring old gun stocks. He suggested it when I asked for a product to spruce up worn patches on a hardwood floor. Works a treat and a little goes a long way.

木製ストック・木製グリップの仕上げに購入しました。期待以上の艶が出て本物のような高級感がでました。乾燥もワトコオイル系の半分以下の時間で乾く気がします。ただアメリカでは４０００円くらいで売ってるので高いと思います。飛行機では空輸禁止となってるのでしかたないのか・・・値段が半分なら星５個です。

Perfect for my needs (canoe paddles).

I had bought a smaller bottle earlier for a guitar project. Inwas so pleased with it that I reordered a larger one. I found it works best if you use several coats with a light sanding every 2-3 coats, using 400 grit paper. Allowed it to dry 8-12 hours between coats, 2/day worked well. I then used a final sand of 1000 grit prior to the last 2 coats. After about a dozen coats, I have a mirror like finish that hardens to a nice durable coat after a few days. I usually let it sit for a few days and then finish with the gun wax, but any carnuba car wax would work.This gives you a shine like no other. Also used this to revitalize an old end table, which only took a couple coats. I am now looking around the house for other projects to use it on.