OEMTOOLS 25219 Hydraulic Ram Safe & Easy Ball Joint Separator

I used this tool to remove the drag link from Pitman Arm, and tie rod end from knuckle when replacing my bent drag link on Jeep JK 2012. It worked like a charm. Those were TIGHT! I used 1/2" Craftsman ratchet. Tightened down easy, never really had to strain cranking the wrench. I Waited a bit after tightening and.........BOOM! Came loose with extreme force. I didn't even have to smack the Pitman Arm or Knuckle. Leave the nut on so it doesn't send the ball joint flying! I held onto the tool loosely to catch it. Be sure to grease the threads of both the large bolt and the smaller one. I used Mobil 1 synthetic grease. The bottom pronged portion goes under the dust boot and against the Pitman arm. You don't have to have the prongs all the way in to the back of the slot. If you can get the end of the top arm completely over the ball joint shaft, that is good enough. ZERO damage to tool, or ball joints, didn't cut the dust/grease boots either. In most cases you can tap the bottom U shaped end all the way in with a plastic deadblow hammer. I had OTC tools suspension/steering kit, but decided to get this hydraulic puller after reading reviews. Man am I glad I did! Worth every cent! Built like a tank, will give life time of service and has lifetime warranty! Can't beat it! NO TROUBLE WITH ROOM TO USE THIS TOOL! MY JEEP is factory, no lift too. I can't say about knuckle yoke/swing arm upper and lower ball joints, since I haven't used it on them yet, but I don't see why it wouldn't work for them just as well. Note, if your ball joints have Allen wrench hex in top of threaded portion, take care to have nut up beyond that, so you don't distort or damage it, or you may have trouble getting the Allen wrench to fit. This thing is a monster, it will "POP" those joints out with extreme prejudice, even if it has to mangle the threaded shaft or the nut a bit! TIP I kept a used buggered up nut that I use the puller on. Same size nut fits all my ball joints on the Jeep JK. That way I don't bugger up a flanged locknut I want to reuse. I used this puller to remove the tie rod as well. This one tool removed all the ball joints on drag link, tie rod ends, pitman arm. Popped the ball joints on the Drag Link at knuckle and Pitman Arm, popped the ball joints on the tie rod ends, no troubles. Works just like the drawing of Jeep maintenance tool, only one heck of a lot easier. Just tighten the big screw till you feel good resistance, then crank the small screw, and the grease will pop that ball joint out with hydraulic action easy-peasy! Just lube the threads good. I didn't need to hit the pitman arm or knuckles with a dead blow hammer. I just cranked with 1/2" ratchet till pretty tight. Waited a few seconds, and BOOM! Off they came. I've got OTC tool kit of pullers, never had to use any of them. This one tool does it all, and does it easier. Best money I ever spent on a suspension tool. I will post some more pictures soon.

This tool made easy work of lower control arm ball joints, popping them out after just a few turns on the set bolt. The tool is extremely sturdy and well built. The only thing that wasn't perfect was the violence with which it blasts the ball joint out of the knuckle as your hand is only a few inches away using a wrench or socket to wind down the set bolt. I learned on the 2nd ball joint to put some distance between me and the tool as it got closer to popping the joint out. It's a loud bang and will freak you out - but I can't say enough how easy this thing is to use and how much time it saves versus banging away at a ball joint with a pickle fork. Great buy and I'd highly recommend.

Worked as described. Heavy duty separator, the best thing about using the separator was no need for a hammer, used as directed and the separator did all the work.

Before I bought this, I was using the low cost Harbor Freight one. I only used the Harbor Freight tool one time on the left/right side because it was difficult to use and was close to breaking. It was difficult to keep on the ball joint as it wanted to twist off as you tightened it. However, with this part removing ball joints was unexpectedly easy! I've used it a few times and it never wanted to twist off as you tightened it and I've never had to use the hydraulic part of it because the ball joints always came loose without needing it. It's a very sturdy tool and makes front end work easy. But, it's really for the larger ball joints on passenger cars and not the smaller size. For example, on my Chrysler 300 it works great on the lower ball joints but, it's too big to use on the upper ball joints.

Took a 2 hour job down to 10 min including digging for tools. Hydraulic function works very well once main threads are tight on the spindle

One of the best ball joint separators I’ve ever used. Allows minimal damage to the area. Still makes me jump when it finally pops the joint apart and you’re not expecting it.

This bad boy looks like it'll hold up against the toughest job. This is the thickest, meatiest, biggest beef steak money can buy. Price wise, I took 1 star off because at this price I was expecting a molded case. I don't like having beautiful tool laying around loosely. I'm notorious for misplacing like the bolt. And speaking of the included bolt, this dude is 3x thicker than all the competitions. I've used HF version and it breaks immediately right out of the gate. I paid 4X for this unit, no problem on first attempt. In nutshell, no more beating ball joint with pickle fork because it can damage your joint and boot from reuse.

After an hour and a half of trying and only succeeding in bending the Harbor Freight joint separator trying to do anti-roll bar links on my Bentley Arnage, I was looking for a better solution. A friend recommended this one, and I had both links off in ~20 minutes. It’s certainly bulkier than the HF version so it may not fit everywhere, but it didn’t flex or bend at all.

Popped some seriously tight joints. The jaws on this are not dead true , and it is cheaply put together, but the threads are good, and the hydraulic seals must be good.... it works.

I struggled to get my '73 E Type Jaguar drivers side front suspension disassembled, upper/lower and tie rod ball joints weren't budging so I ended up cutting out the ball joints and drilling out the bolt. A pickle fork, heat and a cheap ball joint separator where useless. I ended up purchasing this OEM 25219 ball joint separator using it on the passenger side, and couldn't believe how effortless it separated the ball joints, I can't say enough good things about this tool, bravo OEM tools!

Used it to pull a front lower ball joint from the control arm in a 2009 Acura TL. It should also work with any 2010-2013 Acura TL

Wish i had this years ago