Tailoring: The Classic Guide To Sewing The Perfect Jacket

I've taken some evening clothing construction courses at F.I.T. In the intermediate sewing class that served as an introduction to making jackets this book was the recommended reference. It's terrific, lots of clear pictures, and side-by-side comparisons of three different methods: Hand, machine, and mixed. In our class, we primarily used machine methods on wool we had fused with some hand touches. But what's great about it is that if you want to try to do more sophisticated tailoring, the information's there.I've heard about the tailoring series by Roberto Cabrera and others (Cabrera, I understand was an F.I.T. professor). I assume it wasn't recommended for my course because it's either too high-level or too expensive. But I hope to pursue tailoring and will probably buy the Cabrera books in the future.For the beginner to advanced intermediate, this is a wonderful book. (It's such a rare pleasure to praise something that is both high quality and extremely reasonably priced.).

I have read that this book was once part of the excellent Singer Sewing series, and I would believe that, since it follows the exact same format. One should know that it is also available from a different publisher with a different cover photo...if it's about 128 pages, it's likely the same book.I have almost finished reading it. With the great step-by-step photos it has been a pleasure. I very seldom found myself wanting more detail. Even if you do not plan to tailor, if you have an interest in clothing this book is worth the price. You will learn to identify the marks of quality workmanship and fitting as well as have a better appreciation of what goes into this craft.I regularly find myself scanning jackets and coats used in television and movies, checking fit and details. You might not think about tailoring as being one of the 'production values' that distinuishes local TV from national programming...until you read this book!

This is a fully illustrated guide to the three main methods of tailoring: custom tailoring done by hand, machine tailoring, and tailoring using fusible interfacing. The book is quite comprehensive, covering the entire process of making a tailored jacket from selecting the materials, including a detailed section on different types of interfacings, through fitting the pattern, cutting and marking, and all steps of construction for the three methods. There is an illustrated guide to the tools used in tailoring, detailed instructions for several kinds of pockets including patch pockets, lined patch pockets, welt pockets, single welt pockets and welt pockets with flaps, and a section on bound buttonholes. Linings are also covered, including hand installation of linings, machine installation of linings, partial linings, and how to make partial or full linings for an unlined jacket pattern. The book focuses on jackets with notched collars, explaining that these require the most tailoring, but shawl collars are also covered. Other types of collars are not specifically addressed.The book is clear and comprehensive, and a great choice for anyone wishing to learn tailoring. I do have a few criticisms. Some things are explained in great detail, such as the pockets and a section on threads, equipment and techniques for hand sewing. Some others are not and omit a few details that would have been helpful. For instance, the book explains that taping the front is done in custom tailoring but not necessary in machine or fusible tailoring, and it clearly explains how to tape the front step by step and with full color photo illustration. It doesn't explain why taping the front is important or what it does. I found out courtesy of one of Claire Schaeffer's couture patterns for Vogue that taping the front weights it so that the fronts of the jacket hang perpendicular to the floor even when the jacket is open instead of slanting. The book mentions jump pleats in the lining section but doesn't explain how to form one. There is a section comparing the three methods and examples of how one might use a combination of methods, but it doesn't really explain the pros and cons of each method. The author also seems to have a few personal biases, such as recommending against silk as a lining material because it can get water stains under the arms.Overall it is a very good guide but I would recommend supplementing it with other books if you really want to get into the subject.

Women's suit (jacket) patterns such as those made by Vogue, McCalls, Butterick and Simplicity have very brief instructions and I was not fully happy with my results. This book explains how to make the leap from fashion sewing to tailoring. It augments the instructions provided with your jacket pattern. Step by step illustrations are provided and multiple methods (hand tailoring, machine tailoring, fusible) are discussed. I wish pad stitching was explained a bit more thoroughly, especially showing the backside and how to not let the stitches show through. Very pleased with the instructions provided in this book!

This book is good if you only want to do women's tailoring and is limited to jackets only, no tailored pants. It has clear images and provides good examples of basic techniques you need to have to be able to make a decent jacket - how to grade seams, deal with bulky darts, pad-stitching and importantly, how to properly press a garment.It also provides you with alternative technqiues - whether you want to machine make the whole thing with glue interfacing, custom make the garment with hair canvas or half/half.This book is comprehensive enough for a sewer with high or intermediate-high skills.The pictures are very good but some things are better learnt through demonstrations such as - welt pockets - that section for me was more a refresher rather than a lesson on how to.