Bathroom Sink Pop Up Drain with Overflow, Small Cap, Polished Chrome | Fits 1.57-2.36 in Sink Openings with a 1-1/4 in Tailpiece; Solid Brass Push-button Stopper for Sinks with Overflow

Good quality and fit. Looks great. Easy to install. No leaks with included gaskets and washers.

This drain is great. I'm seeing a number reviews that mention leaks, but by in my experience this is 100% installation technique. The technique I use to seal the drain with putty or dope is below. Every drain, not just this one, is likely to leak from the threads without strategic use of putty or dope, because as one reviewer mentioned, a rubber ring can not fill and seal the valleys of threads. Another mentioned using putty and dope above and below the seal, which of course didn't work, so they demanded the tailpiece be made so the threads stop where the seal is positioned - which is impossible because every sink is different in thickness so the seal will land in a different position with every sink. So, here's what you do: First, I recommend losing the top seal that goes between the drain flange and the sink. This isn't a leakage thing - they work ok to seal out water - but they usually make the drain sit up a bit in the sink creating a "ledge" the last bit of water can't get over. You'll replace that seal with putty later. Next, drop the drain into the sink, with no putty or anything. Grab a sharpie, go under the sink, and mark the the threads right where they emerge from the sink, and again about 1/4" down from there. THIS IS WHERE THE SEAL WILL LAND WHEN YOU INSTALL THE DRAIN! Now take the drain out, and use plumber's putty or dope - personally I prefer putty - to FILL THE VALLEYS OF THE THREADS BETWEEN THOSE MARKS. So you're filling up the threads where the rubber seal will eventually land! Make sense? Finally, press a rope of putty to the bottom of the drain flange (some folks use ilicone here - again it's a personal preference thing) and drop it back into the sink, press it down so your now-sealed threads are showing under the sink, and put the rubber seal and washer on. I usually dope the threads just under the rubber seal so the threads of the nut are sealed too. Some people use putty for this but i prefer dope. Thread the nut on, tighten it up, clean the excess putty around the drain flange in the sink, and you should be 100% leak-free! If installed properly this is a great drain, nice finish, good positive seal but not too hard to push to open or close. Highly recommended.

This is the perfect product and fit for our bathroom sinks. Very easy to install. Metal parts not plastic & the push drain cap can be easily unscrewed for easy deep cleaning it a clog occurs. Perfect coloring to match our faucets that I couldn’t match when looking in the larger stores.

I am quite satisfied with the way this project finally turned out, but I had to do it over three time to get it right. The instructions say "Supply enough tape or sealant to (8) thread." (8) is a smooth tailpiece with no threads at all. The tape must go on the threads of the drain body (2). When I first made up the fitting, withjout sealant under the brass locknut, there was a bad leak. I disassembled the drain and added a lot of teflon tape and TFE paste under the brass locknut. sits. When I tightened the nut the leak was gone - but the paste made a mess. But the bigger problemt was that the drain was not flush to the bottom of the sink, but raisedby the the thickness of the rubber gasket (3). Water pooled at the bottom of the sink, and it looked terrible. Once again I disassembled the drain. I cleaned up all the TFE paste, and neatly applied teflon tape to the right spot under the brass locknut. Then I discarded the rubber gasket (3) and replaced it with a bead of plumbers putty. This is the conventional way to install sink drains, and it worked fine The drain sits flush to the sink, and the drain body below is watertight and neat. On last thing. I love the way the bottom is made in two pieces (body and tailpiece) . This made it much easier to install the the old one piece drain it replaced.

I replaced my old leaky bathroom faucet with a Delta faucet and although the faucet is great the drain that came with it was pretty cheap- all plastic. This was a huge upgrade from that one, made from metal and a lot heavier. These drains do get a lot of wear and tear and the last thing you want is a hole worn in your drain pipe so spending a few extra bucks now can save you a lot of hassle in the future. I really like the pop-up drain- it holds water very well and was pretty simple to install (and I'm not much of a plumber). It also looks great and feels really solid when you open and close it. The rubber gasket that came with it leaked a tiny bit at first so I just took it out and used plumbers putty instead and it worked flawlessly. If you're installing it yourself pick up a tube of Rectorseal and you'll be in good shape.

Worked great! Love the pop-up feature.

This pop-up installs easily and works well, but does not have the appearance of the brushed nickel faucet that sits above it. It looks more like stainless steel. Don't buy this item if you want it to match your faucet!

If you read through all of the reviews, you will get some good advice. I have installed 4 of these, and I am an expert at something that I will not do again for 10 years! The instructions are not much help. The top of the drain is where you may get a leak due to the overflow drain holes; this is due to the installation and not the product. Taking from all of the great advice I learned 1) use putty around the drain, it works every time. 2) Putty between the top and where the gasket (4 in the drawing) meets the bottom of the sink. 3) Use tape on the threads, always. 4) Use tape where the tailpipe meets the drain body. 5) Make sure the overflow drain holes are aligned with the overflow drain in the sink body. I had one sink without an overflow, so I put tape around the overflow drain holes so they did not cause me problems later, just something I did you may not want to. Don't overtighten, you may crack the sink. Fill with water and look for leaks, then release the water and look for leaks. Before you start see if the air conditioner drain ties into the tailpipe and if so be sure you are up to that part of the project. The pop-up drain will unscrew if you want to replace it or clean out the drain throat in the future. Finally, I saw one picture where the finish was damaged, I suspect they did not clean it with non-abrasive cleaning supplies. Gentle is better. Anyway great product, and we are happy with the result

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Doesn't feel robust but thin metal

Really excellent and well-made faucet drains, bought two for a double-sink vanity 3 years ago. After three years, the pop-up unit in one of them seized up in the closed position While I'm not sure what caused it - we're mildly hard well water, but vinegar, and citric acid in an ultrasonic cleaner and it still wouldn't budge even with standard tools. Sure are clean tho. Perhaps something was dropped on it, and the piston deformed. So I'm not down-voting it. I replaced the pop-up "piston" and hit the right size the first time: the technical specifications are: Basin Pop Up Bolt Size: M8; Bottom Screw Thread: M16x1.5; Closed Total Height: 43mm; Pop Up Height : 52mm. You can get them from Amazon, two for $9.99 CDN. [Not sure I can include a link direct to the repair product]

I was quite embarrassed when my drain stopper did not pop up. It was stuck! I watched many YouTube videos and googled & tried a few tips, but nothing helped. 5 days passed. :( I measured my existing stopper size and ordered this one with some doubt. The stopper top size didn't match exactly, but hole size was somewhat matched, so hoped it would work. Man, when I received the package. I was surprised by its high quality at this low price. I was thinking of replacing whole thing, but thought "can I just change spring part?". Man, it worked! I attached pictures where you can see golden head. You can rotate counter clockwise to remove and the opposite to install. Hope this helps who might have the same problem.

The product is good and work well except the lower seal. The seal seems too thin. It leaked. I kept the old seal and the leak stopped.