PC Products Petrifier Wood Hardener

Great product. I used it for hardening some dead wood to create few decorative craft projects. Worked so well that it was tougher than original fresh wood!! I mean, I had to saw off some to fine tune the craft item and I realized how hard it was. Before hardening the old log was so dead I had to be so careful not to break it while gentle cleaning.

great stuff. i pulled a toilet that had a bad wax seal so water was leaking onto the subfloor under toilet. who ever built the house left a large cutout and the toilet flange. now i had to dry out all the exposed wood. scraped the soft water logged wood away. once it was dry i used this petrifier. it was sucked right inthe wood and 24 hours later the wood was hard as concrete. this allowed me to fill in around the new flange i put in with gorilla all porpose wood filler. once the area dried and level , the flange was not free floating anymore. i was able to screw the flange thru the woodfiller to the petrified wood unde the putty. this petrified product worked great and i didn't have to cut out the old floor and replace with new plywood and lay a new finished floor. highly recommended product

I am repairing 125 year old rotted wood old growth fir window sills. PC Hardener soaks right into the wood and hardens in a few hours. After it drys you can tell if you missed a spot by sticking your finger nail or a screw driver in to see if in resists. Easy to apply to a horizontal surface. You need a brush for vertical surfaces where it tends to drip or narrower areas like window trim that is fluted. I bought a box of cheap chip brushes to work with the hardener. Virtually no odor! I bought the smaller size 32 oz to see how it worked and how far it would go. Photos are before and after on west and east facing windows and typical of the rotted weathered sills on my house [30" wide 6" deep] with deep cracks, some of which go almost al the way trough 2" thick wood. One 32oz container hardened four window sills and the 24oz PC Woody epoxy filler set was enough to fill those four sills. Easy to clean up spatulas and hands with denatured alcohol. Easy to sand the epoxy with 80 grit sandpaper. It feels like a great surface to paint too.

it hardens up fine after half a day but it does not really fill voids. it's not a thick filler, it's a rot soaker. if there are an voids bigger than a toothpic it will not fill them

This product is meant to be used for wood that is rotted or starting to rot. I read one review in which claimed that it was like water and ran down the board. It isn't meant to be used on healthy wood. I have exterior staircase all wood that have started to rot where the screws were put in. I have followed the instructrions and used a screw driver to pull out all of the rotted wood and made sure what was left was dry. I have used a glass spray bottle and a squirt bottle to put on to both small areas and large areas of rot. This product soaks into the wood like a sponge - you have to let it dry and then reapply until the product pools in the area where there is rot. The next step after treating the rotted wood with this product is to use PC Products 2 part epoxy to then fill the area or hole where the wood was rotted. I was looking at close to $5,000 in replacement costs for the stairs and deck. I did replace approximately 12 boards that could not be saved. The rest are all being treated with the two products and the results are absolutely amazing. Even if I only get another 5 years out of the stairs and deck I will be happy. But now that I know what the problem is I am working to stop the rot before it has a chance to spread. I am guessing the overall cost to me for materials will be $600 which is well worth it. It is labor intensive so it is not for lazy people who would rather pay someone to just replace the wood.

Worked great

I used in a tank sprayer on the rotten ends of my redwood deck boards. I'll see this winter if it actually works. Easy water cleanup.

But it didn't work for my application. I have a rotten vertical board on the front of my house that I would rather fix than replace. I thought I could drill some holes in the top of the rotten part and "pump" in the hardener and let it drip through the wood. It seems it just flowed right through it and didn't stick to anything in the wood. After a few days, the bottom part of the wood was still just as squishy as before. I poured some of it on top of some scrap wood and it dried to a clear hard product.