Magnet Paint UCP970-01 Chassis Saver Rust Preventative Paint, Satin Black, 1 Gallon

I’m not sure how long this will do it’s job I’ve only had it on for 3 months but it looks the same so far. It goes on good with a bristle brush. I believe the directions said to use foam brushes. They are crap and fall apart immediately, I use the cheapest bristle brushes and they last and apply the paint good. I do use a bit of thinner in it, I use xylene solvent as recommended by chassis saver or you can use their own reducer. You can reduce with 10 percent reducer I believe and it is enough for the paint to flow out without brush marks in it. Also it is good to have one of these thinners on hand for spills and if you get the paint on your skin there is no way of getting it off without it. While I normally wouldn’t tell someone to put solvents on your skin it might be an option if you don’t want to wear this paint for weeks while it wears off. Oh and try to make sure the surface your putting it on is clean and free of oils,gas,grease etc. you might get some “fish eyes” when it’s curing. I did in one spot.

Don't get it on you or it will be 2 to 4 weeks before you can get it off your skin. Buy the solvent they recommend.I've had great success spraying it or just brushing it on. Don't try to clean your equipment just throw the brush away. If spraying it used disposable bag inside the sprayer to throw away.Make sure you put plastic between the can and the lid when you put it back on or will weld itself back and you'll never get it off. Make sure you put a thin layer of solvent on top of the chassis saver paint before you seal the lid on it. To keep the oxygen away from it.Stuff adheres to anything use thin coats but make sure you get in thick enough the rust can't break through and you won't see it again.Makes old rusted stuff look like new again.

This is one of the better chassis paints I have used. Will buy again

This seems to be a fantastic product so far, and seems to go a long way, with respect to coverage. It applies nicely with a brush, and flows into a smooth finish. It was supposed to be satin, though it resembles high-gloss; I can live with that. I would highly recommend this product, though a few words to the wise: 1.) Be fully prepared with rubber gloves, mask for fumes, rags, reducer or mineral spirits, etc. before working with this stuff; it is unforgiving. If you track it in the house, you will be buying your wife new carpet. 2.) When done, thoroughly clean the can groove and lid before putting the lid back on, or don't plan on getting it off easily, if at all. I ended up putting mine in a sturdy plastic container. 3.) It seems to coat well over (properly prepared) rusty surfaces, though when applying it to cleaner metal, it covered better if the metal was primed first. Upon reuse, you may find that a thin coat has dried on the top. I accepted that as normal, and just skimmed it off.

I'll compare it to it's seemingly #1 competitor which is POR15. That stuff is expensive and I got tired of buying it so decided to give this a try.As a brush on application, Chassis Saver is very typical of just brushing regular paint while POR15 is very runny in general, usually much more than a clear. The runniness of POR15 might sound bad, but it's actually handy for getting through cracks that normally wouldn't be able to be reached period. Chassis Saver being more like paint doesn't really get into those area and more so lays ontop of it. This same affect makes Chassis Saver go a longer ways in terms of surface area before running out in comparison. So you'd have to pick which is more important.The second thing I noticed is that Chassis Saver doesn't have as strong of a bond if you get it on your skin. It's tougher than something like spray paint to get off but it's still manageable. POR15 on the other hand.. you can literally scrub your skin until you start peeling skin away and that crap will still be there, doesn't matter what you put on it ive tried everything, only time will get rid of it. This does show that POR15's bonding is far superior... far... but at the same time there's only a few real situations where this would genuinely be needed imo. This is more or less a testament to chemical resistance and bonding.After it cures, they're pretty similar in hardness, but again POR15 is just a little bit tougher against things like blunt objects (like hammers) and scratches. Chassis Saver is still very reasonable though, much tougher than general paint, I just noticed it was easier to damage.If you haven't caught on to the trend, It seems to be lacking in just about every way, but still close enough to be an acceptable replacement. If you can afford POR15, I would 100% suggest that instead, but if you're on more of a budget you can't go wrong with Chassis Saver either.Oh and yes, they play nice with each other. I put a layer of this over top of one POR15 project just out of curiosity and it did just fine, no weird side effects or bubbling or anything showing it reacted badly.

I sprayed mine on with a cheap harbor freight 1.7 gun, it went on great other than the over spray and the smell. It turns rock hard and dries nicely, I did top coat mine with a commercial undercoating but I’ll just be spraying this on the front and rear axles and driveline

Used to paint my truck frame after removing all rust. Sprayed well with reducer, sticks well and dries rock hard. Went with the satin, a little more glossy than expected. Will see how it holds up.