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Increase your strength, power, skill, and focus to maximize your climbing performance. “ Training for Climbing is a great resource. Whether you’re just starting out or already ticking 5.13, you’ll find valuable information here to help you climb harder. This is the most complete and up-to-date training guide available.” — Rock and Ice magazine Drawing on the latest climbing research, this third edition of the international best-selling Training for Climbing presents a comprehensive, evidence-based program for improving climbing performance. With the unique perspective of a veteran climber, researcher, and coach, Eric Hörst blends leading-edge sports science with his decades of climbing and coaching experience to create a content-rich text packed with practical how-to and what-to-do information. A few of the new topics explored include: • Energy system training to develop greater strength, power-endurance, and aerobic endurance. • Recalibrating the brain’s central governor for higher power output and stamina. • Daily Undulating Periodization as an effective method of on-season programming. • “Training zones” for rock climbers—the secret to truly effective training! • Stabilizer training to improve arm power and reduce risk of shoulder injury. Also included are expanded chapters on developing strength, power, and endurance in the crucial finger flexor and pulling muscles, as well as a must-read chapter on developing exceptional core strength. Hörst completes his coaching with dedicated chapters on technique and mental training, performance nutrition, accelerating recovery, and injury prevention. The book’s 300-plus pages of expert instruction make for the most advanced and complete book of its type! Eric Hörst is an internationally renowned author and a climber of forty years. As a researcher and coach, Hörst has written hundreds of articles and coached thousands of climbers from around the world. He owns the popular website Training4Climbing. Review: Truly definitive - This has so much great information in one, easy-to-digest book. I coach youth and adult climbers, and use this to guide my training plans, as well as for my own personal training. It has everything you need in one place, and Horst's website includes additional, supplementary info. Great for any climber, it has modification information for beginner to advanced training needs. Review: I would recommend this book to any climber regardless of experience or ... - I would recommend this book to any climber regardless of experience or even interest in training. If you're even thinking about getting it I'd just pick it up now it's great. If you want more info, continue reading. From what I have seen it is the most thorough book on the state of climbing today and covers a wide variety of topics including those you might not associate with "training" including mental aspects of climbing, injury prevention and treatment, nutrition, technique, etc. The author's decades of experience and scientific approach to the sport really shine here to bring you what I would imagine to be the equivalent of a year of coaching from the best coaches in the world. About the only thing I could find fault with is the sheer volume of knowledge and guidance in this book is so large, which honestly is a good thing. I come back to it now and then and am always excited to try more recommendations and share useful tidbits with my fellow climbing friends. Love it.



















| Best Sellers Rank | #110,071 in Books ( See Top 100 in Books ) #3 in Rock Climbing #158 in Hiking & Camping Instructional Guides #182 in Sports Training (Books) |
| Customer Reviews | 4.8 out of 5 stars 510 Reviews |
V**.
Truly definitive
This has so much great information in one, easy-to-digest book. I coach youth and adult climbers, and use this to guide my training plans, as well as for my own personal training. It has everything you need in one place, and Horst's website includes additional, supplementary info. Great for any climber, it has modification information for beginner to advanced training needs.
P**G
I would recommend this book to any climber regardless of experience or ...
I would recommend this book to any climber regardless of experience or even interest in training. If you're even thinking about getting it I'd just pick it up now it's great. If you want more info, continue reading. From what I have seen it is the most thorough book on the state of climbing today and covers a wide variety of topics including those you might not associate with "training" including mental aspects of climbing, injury prevention and treatment, nutrition, technique, etc. The author's decades of experience and scientific approach to the sport really shine here to bring you what I would imagine to be the equivalent of a year of coaching from the best coaches in the world. About the only thing I could find fault with is the sheer volume of knowledge and guidance in this book is so large, which honestly is a good thing. I come back to it now and then and am always excited to try more recommendations and share useful tidbits with my fellow climbing friends. Love it.
C**B
I wanted to wait until I finished the book
I am almost done and I have to say: this is one of the best resources for training for climbing. I have been seriously rock climbing for about 15 months now and have climbed mostly in the gym but a few outdoor trips. In that time, I have sent v5 and 5.10c (on top rope) out doors and v6 and 5.11 indoors. This book has been instrumental in guiding the way I think about climbing, training, and nutrition. The book goes into detail about the physics and biomechanics of climbing which I thoroughly enjoyed. Great addition for all climbers in their training repertoire.
A**D
It is a great resource that I will reference for years to come
It is a very comprehensive guide. Horst details everything to the physiology of training to injury prevention. It is a great resource that I will reference for years to come. If you have never picked up a climbing training guide this would be the one to get. However, if you are not new to the training game (like myself) I felt as though a lot of this material has been rehashed from other sources. It's similar to Horst's 'How to Climb 5.12', but with a lot more detail. I also wish the book gave very explicit training regimes on a weekly breakdown. I realize that everyone's training regime should be unique to them, but I would like a sample day by day breakdown for training strength, power, endurance, ect. The book is very generalized in this regard and provides lots of options. It would be nice for the reader to have some more guidance on a framework to start with.
K**.
Eric has done it again.
Eric has done it again. this is an awesome book that's been updated with information about mobility training. There's a lot of recent development in climbing training and Eric Horst is one of the people at the center of it. I've never owned Ver 1 or Ver 2 of this book only gleaned through them so I can't say how drastically different this one is form previous generations if your considering an upgrade. I will say though that when ver 4 comes out...i'll buy it. If for nothing else to help keep the science moving forward on our largely unstudied sport. You can listen to Eric talk about energy systems and this new book on episode 10 of the powercompany podcast.
D**O
Thaks Eric!
Great guide for training for climbing and self coach
C**I
Fantastic training resource/guide!!
A very comprehensive training guide for climbers. Provides one with the tools necessary to evaluate and construct a viable, effective training program - for all climbers regardless of ability or skill level. Excellent information on injury prevention, rest, and recovery will keep you on the walls and out of the doctors office! Don't forget to check out Eric's podcasts on Training for Climbing - yet another excellent resource for those wishing to take their climbing to the next level:)
A**S
Do it. Buy it.
I have been reading this book for about a month now, and I must say, the extent of knowledge contained in this book is almost overwhelming. To date, It is the most valuable asset I have added to my climbing library, and will certainly be a book I will refer back to again and again for decades. I strongly recommend any climber who is serious about reaching their goals, whatever those may be, read this book. I have learned much, and I am beyond excited to learn more. Eric Horst knows his stuff. I'm definitely gonna be buying more of his books.
K**E
I can now lead 5.10 outdoors!
I bought this book to improve my technique but also to get over my various mental blocks when climbing (and even before!) After just reading the first two chapters, I noticed considerable improvement in my climbing abilities. In less than 3 months, I went from being afraid to lead 5.9's indoors to leading 5.10a's outdoors! The strength of the book resides in the author's clear expertise, but mostly in his ability to quickly get to the point. He tells you what you need to do and how you have to do it. This is the kind of textbook that I will read over and over again, absorbing new information every time.
O**O
Ótimo
Livro completo para treinamento de escalada. Os ciclos e exercícios apresentados são ótimos. Aconselho o livro para quem quer treinar no esquema linear de periodização.
J**H
Muy buen libro
Un fantástico libro para mejorar en la escalada. La lástima es que me lo compré en inglés, y después averigué que existe traducido en castellano, que me hubiera resultado mucho más práctico
E**O
Ottimo e ben fatto, per crescere nell'arrampicata
Libro molto ben fatto, sto seguendo i suoi programmi di allenamento da circa un anno e devo dire che i miglioramenti si notano. Molto completo e ben spiegato, sia nella parte degli esercizi che nelle sezioni in cui spiega alimentazione, motivazione ecc. Se siete interessati soltanto alla parte di allenamento suggerisco di acquistare soltanto "The rock climbers exercise guide". Per tutto il resto questo libro resta uno dei migliori strumenti per allenarsi seriamente con un programma completo. Lo consiglio sia ai principianti che ai climbers più forti, in quanto contiene un programma per ogni livello di atleta.
A**C
bien
intéressant, bien expliqué
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