3M Auto Care Rubbing Compound, 03900, 8 oz

I have been a very loyal purchaser of this product for years. I've bought the Meguire's scratch remover, many polishes, many waxes. Nothing comes close.I live in a crazy beach environment. Thanks to tourists and drunk people the only parts of my 2009 Jeep Liberty than haven't been repaired and repainted are the hood, roof, and rear gate. It is constantly hit with car doors, inflicted with unexplainable scratches... but it's paid off, has been a good car, and I want it too look nice for as long as possible.A car wash put a four inch deep scratch in my hood. I have a new bumper swipe on the back from someone who couldn't parallel park, and there are deep scratches in the left painted plastic fender (maybe a bike?)This rubbing compound shined the scratch in the hood so it's barely noticeable. Sure there is a scar in the shine when looking at an angle, but the noticeable white scratch is gone. Same with the fender although the plastic took more work.The rear bumper cleaned up great. Oxidation from parking on the street in salt air is a breeze.I'm not a body technician so I wouldn't be comfortable using power tools with this. It's so effective by hand that with tools used incorrectly, I know it could burn right through the paint.It is exactly what you would expect from 3M and it works. It might not make some types of damage perfect but it's the best thing on the market for making it better.

3M has the best buffing & polishing compounds if you know how to use them and have the right equipment. I have body shop experience so I know what I'm doing, but if you're not careful, you could burn through your paint. This is the fist step in either renewing old single stage paint or buffing out new clear coat that has been sanded with 1500 grit wet sandpaper. This is used with a wool or foam buffing pad. The next step is the 3M Polishing Compound used with the black foam polishing bad. This is a finer buffing and takes out the swirl marks left from the rubbing compound. Finally, I use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. This is what professional body shops use and is the best method for buffing. I like this 8oz size because the only size at my paint supply shop is 32 oz. Good for a body shop but way too much for me. This small bottle goes a long way and will last me for a while. If you don't have a professioal variable speed buffer and the right buffing pads, this may not be the best choice. If you do have the right tools and the know-how, this stuff is great.

I used this to restore my headlights. Great value and easy to use. I was pleasantly surprised at how quick and easy this was to use and how well it worked. I had seen other products but they seemed complicated. And I didn't want to be bothered with all that.I used a rag, and some water (no power tools or buffing or tape) and to be honest very little effort or attention to detail Lol. It took just a few minutes. If you have patience and really work it or have a buffer you'll probably get even better results. (Or if your a guy Lol) I was very happy with the results and how simple and easy it was to get results. So far the restoration has lasted a several weeks. I definitely recommend you give it a try.

EXCELLENT! On vehicle they completely r remove light surface scratches and beautify headlights, I would highly recommend this product if your headlights have slight yellowing

i've always liked 3m products, and this one did not fail me. i used it with my Porter Cable dual action polisher and Lake Country CCS yellow cutting pad to start detailing my wife's 2006 Subaru, which was purchased used, and on which the paint was already looked pretty blah . I had wet sanded with 3000 grit 3m Trizact sand paper some of the deeper scratches first, which left those spots rather dull and full of finer scratches. My first step after that was to use this compound. It took out all the fine scratches from wet sanding as well as all the swirl marks on the car, leaving the paint looking great. I was pretty impressed. The areas that were wet sanded needed to be gone over slowly with a decent amount of pressure, and sometimes i needed to go over them a second time with more compound put on the area, but they got out. The areas that just had swirl marks were smoothened out fairly easily, but still going over the area a few times within the same "pass."Which brings me to one point - you have to use this methodically. check out youtube on proper compounding procedures with a DA polisher, and you'll see how they move the polisher slowly, covering the same spot multiple times in one pass. Think about what you have to do when you sand wood. it's no just a quick swipe over the area. You have to go over it a good bit before it's fully sanded down. This is the same concept. You're essentially sanding - very fine sanding - the car's clear coat.I polished after this step, but honestly, it didn't look much different. which is to say, that this compound leaves a good finish. You do want to polish to further smoothen out the clear coat, so don't skip that step.The only "negative" is that there's a lot of dust that come from this, but seriously, i haven't dealt with a compound or fine cut cleaner that doesn't. just have a bunch of microfiber cloths handy to wipe it down.

i bought this expecting it to be the same 3m branded rubbing compound i used in my schools body shop to use at home but this is 10 times worse then that it litteritly takes twice as long to get nearly the same results... That said yes it does work but not nearly as well.. Im not sure what the differnce is with the 3m rubbing compound we have at the shop to this other then the size of the bottle over all im disapointed in this product