NO-OX-ID A-Special- Electrical Contact Grease- Keeps Metals Free of Rust and Corrosion- Part# 10203

This stuff works! I have a couple of inexpensive EDC flashlights that were flickering and I assumed there was an electrical contact issue. I completely dismantled the lights, cleaned all connecting metallic surfaces and applied a small amount of NO-OX-ID to each. Problem solved and the lights are working perfectly!

Works great!

Performed as intended even in warm and cold weather. ^w^ Great value for the money. :3 Quality is also very good 4 intended applications such as car terminals or socket connectors. :3 TIPs: Make sure all power it cut off from what ever your working on with this stuff, Warm product up to around 21~26°C(70~80°F) before using it, Wear disposable gloves before using it, Have painter's tape ready and applied 2 surface of wat ever UR working on so when UR done U peal away the tape so no shorts happen(google did say its non conductive but its better to be safe than sawry later). :3

Eric O from the South Main Auto youtube channel uses this, so it must work he doesn't mess around with crap products. Since I couldn't buy direct I got it at a good price here. A little bit goes along way so this quantity should last me quite awhile. Compatible with electrical connections unlike dielectric grease. This durable, versatile product is conductive unlike dielectric grease.

good product

Been waiting a few weeks before I write this review to see how NO-OX performed over time and I am ready to report that it works as promised. Have not had oxidation buildup on my silver-nickel tracks since I applied it correctly. But to reach this point I had to read and follow the suggested application procedure. The first time I was in a hurry to see if it worked and messed it up so I had to start over. The source for this procedure is in a PDF file that is an attachment on another PDF file in the MSDS (they call it SDS) section of the SanChem website. The proccedure is attributed to Gary. Here is the condensed version: (1) clean the track. You want bright and shiny bare metal when you are done. (2) apply a thin coat of the grease by dabbing your finger in the NO-OX-ID and rubbing it on the top of the track. You only need a little. Gary estimated that to do 500 ft of N scale track requires only a quarter of a spoonful. If you can see it on the rails then it is probably too much. (3) run all of your locomotives but not the cars, to get a thin coating of NO-OX-ID on the wheels because they carry current from the track to the motors so you don't have the oxidation build up on them. At this stage the drive wheels might spin some but not to worry. (4) gently wipe the rails with a cloth to remove any excess grease but not hard enough to remove it all. You want some to remain on the top of the rail. (5) wait 24 hours. You want to give the NO-OX-ID enough time to slowly spread out and leave behind a thin layer. NO-OX-ID seems to have some behaviors more typical of a coating. Now you are ready to run trains and not clean track. I am happy with the results but still trying to understand more of the chemistry and science behind it.

Throw away your Bright Boy or other abrasive cleaners. You won't need them anymore. Highly recommend this if you are into model trains. A very light coating (and I mean, LIGHT) on the rails will keep your trains running stall and stutter free for a very long time. Clean the rails well first and remove any existing dirt / oxidation and apply a little of this. (Note: Do NOT use alcohol to clean your track first as this is not good for electrical conduction....Google it) Use a soft cotton pad to keep working this onto the surface and sit back and enjoy. You should not feel any residual greasiness when done. If your traction wheels are slipping, you have too much. Wipe off the excess and try again. (it's a feel thing) Very happy this product is available. One jar should last you a lifetime.

Prevents corrosion on dissimilar metals. Great for ham radio applications.