Skar Audio EVL-65 D4 6.5" 400 Watt Max Power Dual 4 Ohm Car Subwoofer

I love this little thing. Stuck it in a sixth order, fed it about 300 watts and have been having fun with it. A sub this small allows me to keep trying different box designs without eating up much money.This thing digs down deep in the right box. I've gotten impressive output at 26Hz with my current setup. As a bit of a basshead I find it fun, and surprisingly powerful. The best thing about it is just the quality of sound I'm getting with a very small footprint in my car, and very low power. It pairs with my more SQ oriented front stage setup, and with a little Time Alignment and EQ work, I've been able to get the sound dialed in perfectly for when I want to LISTEN to music, not just PLAY it.The downside is the small size of the driver limits the voice coil size and suspension strength, as well as the motor size. Though impressive for it's size, I think I'd be happier with the output if I would have picked up an 8, but that's just the basshead in me talking. On just 300ish watts, I've heard the voice coil bottom out on the backside of the motor. Furthermore, the flat blade terminals leave a lot to be desired, they make wiring a little bit annoying as the area is a little bit cluttered. I'd love to see spring or screw terminals. I ended up soldering tails onto them.Overall I have to say that this little sub is perfect for an inexpensive upgrade to your sound system if you are just looking to enjoy your music with a little more bass.The simplest thing you can do to wake up your vehicles stereo system is, surprisingly, to bypass your factory amp and put your factory speakers on an aftermarket amp, and adding a small bass setup. You'd be surprised at how good the speakers in your car are, and how bad the factory amp is. There are some good options for all in one DSP and amplifier setups that are affordable. Tack on a small bass setup like this, and you can have an amazing upgrade for less than 500.

These little subwoofers are amazing, I have them loaded in a toolbox audio system and they hit hard and sound clear. Going to buy more in the future. Worth the investment. Even at full tilt, there's no distortion and they move a ton of air in my ported boxes.Just match a good amp to the power rating and you are good to go.Take a chance and buy them, worth every penny.

Bought these to replace the 6.5" sail panel subs in my 2002 Trans Am with a Monsoon factory system.Needed a spacer to fit, which is normal given the size of the magnet.They sound good, but aren't quite as crisp a bass note as I'd hoped for. Overall I'm happy, but they're not as clear as sound as I'd hoped for.Good for the price, and a great option for a car with limited replacements available.

Why did you pick this product vs others?:I bought one 6.5” sub For my DIY project after reading many successful reviews. While it does its job, I’m not too impressed. It holds its 200 watt RMS at 2ohm but it definitely lets you know it doesn’t like more than that. Don’t buy one if you plan to run 400 watts max rating at 2 ohm. You will blow it. For me, it works well and loud for the beach and pool at 200w.

I don't write reviews often, but I have to share how impressed I am with these Skar EVL-65 D4 subwoofers. I purchased two of them and installed them in the rear doors of my 3rd gen Toyota Tacoma access cab. These fit perfectly when combined with the Taco Tunes heavy duty speaker adapter kit. On the access cabs, the rear door is divided down the middle - separating the speaker cavity from the seatbelt assembly beside it. With that in mind and by very rough estimations, the cavity of the door is roughly 0.6 cubic feet which provides a nice starting point for a ported enclosure.I only applied enough sound deadening to stop some rattles and hollowness, but did as much on the exterior door skin as I could. Right now it's running as pictured, but I've done some box modelling based on ~0.6 cu. ft. and may try to remove the large access panel in the bottom of the door to place an appropriately sized port in it's location. I'll update this review if I do it with the results. Enough about how well this works in the rear door of a Tacoma...So I've got two of these, wired to 1ohm, on a tiny Skar SK-M5001D 500W RMS amp. It's technically a little more than they are rated for each, but they're 3ft away from our heads and only need to fill a small truck cab, so the gain isn't turned up very high. I have a subsonic filter set around 30Hz, and a LPF at around 100Hz. This is not a SQL or SPL setup, I just wanted a fuller bottom end and these over delivered! I had far lower expectations than what I wound up with. They have great extension, sound good, and have been taking the little abuse I give them very well. If you have a truck with a smaller door cavity, can fit this speaker depth, and don't want to give up any cab space... I would recommend giving it a try. There are a number of YouTube videos of them in a properly spec'd enclosure really hitting hard too, so if you want some big bass in a small enclosure these may it the bill.

Great for diy sound project

The media could not be loaded. It's not the cheapest option but I tried a dayton unit and it couldn't handle the power, so I said screw it and went for the skar unit, not disappointed in the slightest. It is a tight fit as the magnet barely fits through the hole, and it does need to be set in series to get an 8 ohm load. You could do a 4 ohm load but it's not a good idea since the internal amp was made for a 6 ohm load originally. If you want an option that will probably be overkill and most likely never be over powered by the internal amp, then this will be a good bet, after it breaks in and loosens up the bass does get cleaner so don't expect it to be perfect right away as it NEEDS a breaking period, best way to do that is to simply play music through it for a couple days at a decent volume to get it moving. Otherwise it's a great unit with rly good build quality and sounds excellent, worth the $60 I paid for it.