Superclear Deep Pour Epoxy Resin 1.5 Gallon Kit, Clear 2-4" Casting Resin

Seasoned woodworker, but first deep pour river table...so take this for what's it worth. First off, the epoxy is crystal clear. The micro bubbles came out of it with minimal effort using a torch. I used 2" thick black walnut slabs with about a 4-7 inch river in between. Mold was 3/4 MDF covered with clear packing tape then a heavy coat of past wax. sides to bottom was caulked. ZERO leaks and easy to remove project from mold. Also, I sealed the live edges first using their tabletop epoxy- I highly recommend this step. Brushed on a thin coat, placed in the mold, then tried to seal the bottom of the wood to the mold. I let this dry 2-4 hours as per manufactures recommendation, then poured the deep river. Things I wished I would have known to do: 1. This epoxy takes a long time to get hard....3 days to cure. Fine. However, I used a green Mica powder and poured the river at about 4 PM. I kept stirring the mica around until I got a cool pattern I liked, only to come back a hour later and seen that it settled into a totally different pattern. Stir again...hour later same thing. This went on and on until 2 AM and the epoxy showed no sign of thickening enough to hold the pattern I liked.Went to bed. Set the alarm for 6 AM, but by then, it was too late as the epoxy had thickened to where stirring was out of the question. I think if you pour in the AM hours, the timing would be such you could baby sit it and keep a eye on when to get the stir pattern you like. It needs to thicken up a little to hold. So plan the pour accordingly. If you are using a tint or dye or even just clear, then pour it, get the bubbles out then walk away and wait 2. This epoxy shrinks. I poured with my form being perfectly level in all directions and poured until it just slightly mounded over the top. 3 days later, fully cured, it was down at least 1/8 of an inch from the top surface of the walnut. The way to counter this is to put a bead of caulking along both river edges then pour to the top of the caulking. I've seen this done in videos, but did not do it. I wish I had, because after you get done flattening your slabs, the project gets thinner. I started with a little over 1 7/8" thick and ended up with 1 5/8" Not a huge deal, but something to keep in mind 3. Think hard about green.....looks nice in pictures, but in retrospect....kinda disappointing compared to blues, and blacks, and other hues. Personal preference, but I thought I'd throw that in there. Has nothing to do with the epoxy. In summary, I'm very happy I went with this product and will use it again for sure. I had a technical question for the manufacturer, so I reached out via email and got my answer the next day. This stuff has no bubbles if done correctly, machines and sands very well.

I did some research between a handful of different resin sights before purchasing this product. I always make my way through the less-than-pleasant reviews before working my way into the highly rated ones and found this product suited my needs perfectly. Directions were simple, mixing wasn’t an issue (I absolutely recommend pouring into a second container though). The resin itself settled well and solidified beautifully! I did not, however, order enough on my first round. Updates for shipping stopped at one point, saying “delayed” with no fault to the epoxy company (UPS do better). I sent them a message explaining my issue and they immediately shipped me a new batch! I plan to update this once I have my table sanded down and cannot WAIT to use this resin for future projects. If I could give ten stars, I would. ⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

This was my first attempt with a deep pour epoxy and my experience with a test run went extremely well. I followed the directions carefully and made my pour in a small room that I was able to control the temperature with a little space heater set to 75 degrees. I used mica pigment powder that was mixed into the epoxy after the transfer to the second container. The pigments held very well, however I did notice the darker pigments fell lower to the bottom of the mold - not sure if it's because most of this color I poured first and then had the lighter blue pigments poured on top of it, but I did do some mixing with a stick and it seemed to settle again - so further testing is needed. Aside from that, the colors still turned out beautifully - I had just under 24 hours of setup time where the epoxy was still liquid enough to mix and move around as needed. between 24 and 36 hours, the epoxy had turned very gooey and tacky and by 48 hours it was solid enough to remove the mold from. At 72 hours, the epoxy was fully hard and stable. I made a small test pour of 4 inches by 10 inches by 1.25 inches with small boards of wood angled across the mold with the epoxy. I sanded everything up to 2000 grit and it felt like glass - my girlfriend didn't believe i didn't have a finish coat on it, it was so smooth and shiny. Overall wonderful epoxy, I will be purchasing again for use in much larger projects in the coming months.

I absolutely love and recommend this resin especially for beginners and anyone that doesn't want to feel rushed the second they finish mixing up a batch. This stuff is water consistency even at room temps so it flows wonderfully into cracks and crevices without needing and help. The work time on this is longer than you probably need it to be but I love that. Other resins get super hot and start to cure like right away so you don't really have time to do anything but pour but this stuff only gets mildly warm. The clarity on this resin is really incredible and lives up to it's name for sure. I strayed and bought some "total boat" brand resin and it got so hot inside of 5 mins of mixing, that it nearly melted a red party cup and the stuff is just loaded with bubbles and puts off fumes like crazy. I will never buy another brand or style of resin as far as I'm concerned, this is as good as it gets. The one and only complaint is that with as long as this stuff takes to cure you will have trouble with things like glitter settling to the bottom of your molds. The way to avoid this is to wait to add glitter until this stuff gels up a little bit at the beginning of a cure. If you're just using inks or mica powders then this stuff doesn't need any extra attention and can be added right when you've mixed A and B up.

I have no complaints about the epoxy itself. It’s a very good quality epoxy with crystal clear results although the deepest poor I’ve done thus far with this specific brand is only 2 inches so I can’t speak for its performance at 4 inches deep. I’ve even used it as a surface epoxy on multiple occasions and the results have been great. You just have to Account for more curing and drying time then your typical “non-deep poor epoxy. I took off one star due to the wildly inconsistent pricing this epoxy is sold for. I’ve been using it for a few years now and I’ve seen it listed for anywhere as high as $300 and as low as 150. They’ll also list their prices as 40% off when it’s listed at its normal pricing range. If you’re going to buy the epoxy, do yourself a favor and wait until it’s listed for $180 or less. Otherwise you’re getting ripped off.

I’ve used epoxy resins before. This is by far the easiest to use resin I’ve used. It doesn’t have a bad small. It’s thin (but not too thin to cause a giant mess) and takes a long time to cure, so there’s plenty of time to address imperfections. The few bubbles that are left after pouring are easily removed with a torch. It cures crystal clear with a high gloss finish. I cannot recommend this stuff enough.

This stuff says liquid glass, and it really is as clear as glass. I used some mica powders to create the movement in the epoxy. Just one word of advice - try some practice pours before you do a larger project. That advice helped me a lot to figure out how it worked, how long it took, how much mica powder, etc. In doing so I figured out that the mica powder sinks if you don’t wait several hours. Once it starts to thicken, it helps the powder remain suspended. This stuff is really fun to work with and create unique works. This particular product is for thick pours, so the curing time is very long. It takes 3-4 days to get fully cured. Be patient. And enjoy! 04/01/21 update: Used this to build a mantle for a fireplace and it turned out so well. I backlit it from inside the mantle and it gives such a great effect. Very happy with this product and how it turned out. I added a few more photos to check out.

I love this resin brand and have been using for years. There customer support is awesome. Not hard to use if you follow instructions. It is a 2:1 ratio. If I had to say a negative, I wish it were 1:1 ratio. Dries very clear if you alleviate air bubbles.Drawback....thakes 3 days to cure