Professional Audio Bluetooth Power Amplifier - 2-Channel Rack Mount Bridgeable, LED Indicators, Shockproof Binding Posts, Cooling Fans 1000 Watt - Pyle PTA1000

I am quite impressed with this amplifier for the low price it has. I am currently using it to run a speaker system in my room(for movies, music, and video games). One channel is dedicated to powering an 8" 400 watt subwoofer at 4 ohms and the 500 watts of power is perfect for this. The second channel is used to power 2 JVC satellite speakers for upper frequencies. They are 8 ohm so really the amplifier can go 250 watts max with them. This system sounds very good for movies as the subwoofer can recieve a lot more power(those store-bought surround sound packages generally come with an underpowered subwoofer) thus the bass frequencies are excellent. For music I reccomend using an ipod or pc connected to the amplifier, that way you will be able to pre-amplify the audio signal and get the RMS value just right. I have tried using a flash drive plugged into my xbox 360 connected to the amplifier for music, but the speaker system is way underpowered as you can't pre-amplify the audio using this method. Anyway, this amplifier works great for the application I am using it for. I can imagine it would work great for applications such as live sound, PA speaker power, etc. I almost forgot to say this, for the inputs it accepts either 2 cannon male inputs, or 2 1/4" male mono jack inputs. For outputs you can use either the three conductor speaker jacks, or the 4 binding posts to connect speaker wire directly to the amplifier. This amplifier is bridgable, so you can get 1000 watt max power output by using the middle conductor speaker jack(it is labeled) or by connecting the speaker wire to the 2 positive binding posts(no negative involved). If you need 1000 watts of power for a particular application then this amp is great for the price and I highly recommend it. Hope this review helped.

The cheapest most cost effective amp of which I am aware. Hint it's not a 90 pound 1980s model crown macro tech that'll run a stadium speaker. If you have a peavey sp2g with black widow drivers you should know better than to approach that speaker with this amplifier. What are you thinking. But, the way they have modern stadiums with smaller speakers in the bleachers. Oh yeah this amp could work with those. Never let subwoofer enter your pretty little head with this amp. Think 1970s Honda civic. Just not made to be a truck truck. It's light inexpensive and You could lift it out of a tight parking space so whenever it was big enough to carry what you need it's the go to. I use mine for:MonitorsBlown powered speaker- I drop in a passive crossover and a jack plate and use one of these amps.Tops to the main system when using a high crossover point. Like you want the subs carrying the lows and low mids if you're aiming this amp to the audience.This amplifier is little light and darn near disposable. I have several of these. I send these if I'm loaning out a regular pa speaker. You can run one ok pa speaker ok with this amp. Not stellar but pretty good. I've got a DJ using one of these right now. I've got a keyboard player without an amp. I've got plenty of extra passive speakers. He gets this amp and a speaker for his keyboard amp and he's happy as a clam. I make it a point to run one of these whenever its powerful enough. I carry one of these extra for whenever I need to engage unplanned for speaker at an event. I usually run more powerful amplifier as this isn't enough for my mains or subs and I run to many monitors most gigs for this to handle. To put this amplifier into my main system I have to change the load. Like working with smaller people. They'll work just can't carry what big people carry. It's not a powerful amplifier. It's good for what it's good for at an excellent price.

Pros:Low PriceRack mountableDecent soundBalanced inputsBridge modeGround liftCons:Overstated wattageExtremely loud fansComments:I bought this unit primarily for the case (a bare rackmount case is well over the price of this amp) and particularly because it is so easy to retrofit with other components. It is a dual-mono design with amp modules and heatsinks on either side and a 33/33 toroidal transformer in the center with the power supply unit (PSU).First thing, the fans are NOISY!! If you've heard the expression "howl like a banshee", in comparison to this amp, the banshee would be near silent. Fortunately, the design of this amp is a single 2SC5198/2SA1941 pair for each amp and generates about as much heat as a 5 watt bulb under the worst conditions so unplugging the fans turns it into (... wait for it....) a very nice sounding 70w/ch amp.Speaking of 70w/ch, I put it on my test bench with an 8ohm dummy load and got 70w/ch before clipping set in. Quite an accomplishment. Bridge mode was not so great yielding only 107 watts but as with many amps in this price range, the small power supply capability hampers them.So how does it sound?? Well, pretty much like any other slow A/B solid state amp. It does not turn in a memorable performance with any music and in fact is quite undramatic. Perfect for background music. The Toshiba transistor pair is very common in a lot of low end equipment and for good reason.Now the bad.For me, I did not intend to use this amp for much other than a parts bin. In parts alone, this amp is worth three times the selling price but for those keeping it be aware that it is hampered by poor build quality. The amp modules are of low grade single layer construction and notably, already bowed despite being mounted on their side. The power supply board fares much better. Although did not remove it for a closer look, it is clearly of better quality than the amp boards. The best part is that the rear input/output board is monolithic and connected to the front panel so the amp modules have only power, speaker and pre-in leads. Perfect for a project amp!One last thing. The meter lights might have been useful but they're calibrated to light when it's too late. Once the signal light flashes, that's peak output before distortion rears it's ugly head. If you see the "vu" meter lights, it's distortion city. Since this chassis is used for other models, I suspect, they're not calibrated for the bottom end amp (which this one is).So that's it. I posted a photo of the internals for the hobbyists (hopefully, they didn't delete it). Hope you find this info helpful.

This product is showing clip mode as soon as I plugged it upNot good. This amp has been used before