RESIONE 3D Printer Resin, F80 Elastic Resin 405nm UV-Curing Resin with High Elongation at Break High Resilience Photopolymer Resin for LCD DLP MSLA 3D Printing (Black, 1000g)

so far, best gingiva resin . easy to print .

The media could not be loaded. I primarily use litchi slicer but could not get any success, even when using other users profiles for this resin. Resione provides profiles for Chitubox and after downloading that slicer and the associated profiles I achieved continuous successful prints. This stuff is amazing and if you are also a scale model/rc car builder you can produce amazing tires. Also flexible side mirrors, mudflaps, wipers, etc.Cleaning the vat and build plate is considerably more work than standard resins. This stuff is thick and messy so do yourself a favor and print any and everything you want to simulate rubber.

I've used this so far to make gaskets and seals for a project. I'm using an Anycubic Mono X and a few things I've learnt along the way:First, this stuff is sticky and messy. I usually like to keep my work area pretty tidy but this stuff will get everywhere. Second, it's got a pretty strong odor. I work in a pretty large room in my house and I've never been bothered by any other resin I've used but this one can get to me. If I was going to use it a lot I'd have to figure out a way of ventilating or filtering the fumes.Now then, printing with it can be a little tricky. It's only about 70°F in my room so this stuff is about the consistency of 90w axle grease. When the build plate tries to home the stepper motor isn't strong enough and it will buzz for a second as it works to squish the resin out from under the plate. If there was a way to slow down the descent during the homing process that would help but I don't know that there is. Fortunately, despite the buzzing I think the plate is getting to its proper position because the models stick well to the plate, extremely well in fact. It's actually pretty tough remove the models. I find my metal scraper actually shaves off little particles of aluminum build plate.For the print settings, retract speed is just as important as lift speed. I keep them very slow at the beginning of the print. If the models are small, I will increase the retract speed once there's a hundred or so layers printed. Also, you have to be sure to have the lift height high enough. If your part is going to be very weak and stretchy on the vertical axis, you have to have a very high lift or it won't pull it away from the FEP. I also place small models as far from the center of the build plate as possible. When I put them in the center, I have failed prints. I have this problem with some other resins too, however. I think my build plate is not perfectly flat.Even with a good post cure, I've noticed that the properties of the item seem to change (improve) the next day, with the item being quicker to return to it's normal shape after being deformed.Time will tell how durable the items are in a working environment. I'm also unsure about the chemical resistance to things such as gasoline but I plan to do some testing.

This resin is tricky and temperamental and takes some testing to get a good outcome. But now that I understand its properties and the environment it requires I’ve had a very successful experience and now I’m making usable parts. Maintaining proper viscosity is the key to a successful print. I made an internal heater for my printer to regulate the chamber temperature as well as measuring viscosity and resin temperature before I begin the print. If I do this I’ve had 100% success.I’m using a elegoo Mars pro 2

Great results

TL;DR Maybe great for some things, not for my purposes. Clean-up is an eldritch nightmare. Maybe use a disposable resin tank. Don't let it get within ten yards of any sink.You know that scene from Ghostbusters 2, where the guys end up taking a dip in the river of slime? You ever wonder, in-universe, how hard it must've been for them to get cleaned up afterwards?Well you won't have to if you get a bottle of this!For what it's intended for, it's probably fantastic resin. For what I was attempting to us it for (flexible accessories for miniature models), it was a terrible waste of money.Cleaning up the print is a small nightmare, because any nubs leftover from trimming off supports can't be sanded down. And trimming with either side-cutters or modeling knives is next to impossible because of how flexible the resin is--at least on smaller prints. When there's a bit more volume, the nubs are easier to clean off. But any thin bits? You're out of luck.But cleaning the vat? Especially after a failed print? (Which will almost certainly happen.) That's a big nightmare. For one, this resin is extremely thick, and simultaneously some of the slipperiest and stickiest stuff I've come across...and I used to be a housekeeper at a college. Let that sink in. No, no, you can go and get some brain bleach. I'll wait....You back? Okay. So, as for cleaning the vat itself. Don't expect "tank clean" to help you very much on newer printers. Because this stuff adheres so solidly to the fep sheet, that you risk puncturing the sheet getting a lip of the resin to let go enough to peel it away. And good luck keeping a hold on that edge, because when it's uncured resin on partially cured resin, this stuff is *slick*. Once you somehow manage to get the sheet of resin peeled out of the tank, along with your failed print (if the sheet of resin doesn't just tear away around the thicker globs of failed print..), it's on to cleaning the tank itself..Yeahhhh...hope you have an entire bottle of 99% IPA. Or a big ultrasonic cleaner you don't mind throwing out. Oh, and don't make the same mistake I made of cleaning the tank with 99% IPA in any household sink. Even after being thoroughly flushed with alcohol, I'm pretty sure this stuff is enduring as a series of eternally enduring cloying globules in my plumbing. Globules that will resist the effects of plumbing cleaners, time, and the heat death of the universe.

I've been 3d printing for nearly 4yrs with 2.5 in resin. I simply couldn't figure out a way to have this print successfully beyond an inch or so. wasted $50 because l learned nothing and a lot of frustration. Tried on Photon Mono X and Photon M3 Premium. Furthermore, it is very flexible but not stretchy even when under a mm thick. YMMV but now you have been warned.