Avery Printable Heat Transfer Paper for Light Fabrics, 8.5" x 11", Inkjet Printer, 6 Iron On Transfers (3271)

I'm a graphic designer, coach various kid teams & always seem to be making shirts for them. I began using the Avery transfers in 2010 & have some shirts that have been through the wash countless times since then. Never had a problem & the colors seem to last amazingly well over time. Other than using only white or light grey fabric & a good quality shirt, my tips would be:1) pre-wash the shirt (I've used cotton & 50/50) & tumble dry.2) Plain paper final review: ALWAYS look at your design through the back of the paper (hold it up to a window or bright light) & make sure all of your text has been mirrored & the design looks good.3) Print the final design using the best quality your printer can output.4) Trim close to the printed parts but leave a bit of a margin - 2mm'ish. Don't cut so close that your design falls apart or warps while you are ironing. Round off points, if even a little.5) For fine designs that have been cut to the flimsy stage, cover with a sheet of parchment paper in the beginning of the ironing to get it stuck down. The parchment can be removed to finish the ironing. Baking parchment will not stick to this stuff & can get pretty darn hot. Do not use waxed paper or regular printer paper: they do not like to get hot.6) Follow the package ironing instructions. Simple as that. I use a cutting board on the floor so I can apply good pressure. For sleeve designs, my hubbie made me a little block of wood that fits inside. He cut a small groove on the bottom for the seam so the wood lays flat.7) After I peel the paper off I lay a piece of parchment over the whole design & give it a final hit with the iron. This seems to really set the transfer into the fabric & gives the most natural feel.8) If you can plan ahead, it's good to give them a final rinse with a bit of vinegar in the water to set the dye. Line dry & tumble on low to soften the whole shirt. I've never had the nerve to do the full heat dryer before the 'event' but that's my own weird thing.My worst experiences have come from using a cheap, lightweight shirt, using transfers that were too old or had been exposed to moisture (they did work though, just needed some extra tlc), or using a shirt color other than white or light grey.Love these things, just ordered 18 more. Buy them, have fun.

Problem: third grader wanted to do a piano/singing tribute to Bowie, and online printers would not print the design sought due to copy right, though we had modified some of the graphics. Their position was understood. Then I discovered the Avery transfer paper. I bought both the dark and the light color transfer papers not knowing which the little guy would prefer at the end.Here is the upshot, working with both the light and dark paper:• Wash and dryer dry your t shirt/fabric first. A shrunk fabric works best• the more time you spend prepping and the closer you follow the instructions the better your end product• don't be afraid of force (pushing down) and heat• Trimming the extra paper on the light paper minimizing areas that will be clear but somewhat glossy• Trimming the extra areas on the dark paper avoids transferring the color white to the fabric• Through trial and error I figured out it is better to avoid sharp corners to make them round, reducing the risk of corners peeling off• The side of the paper you print on is the white side for both dark and light paper, so make sure you know how to load the paper in your inkjet printer• Your final print area can be larger than a sheet as you can cut images/words from the paper and space them or use them elsewhere on the shirt (for instance, arm badges can be printed in a corner of the same sheet)Trick:• To avoid damage to the reverse side graphics, if you do a front/back design, use a large cutting board or a piece of flat wood slide it in the t-shirt that way the wood sits between the front and back. This also solves the issue of both sides of the t-shirt not being perfectly flat/ironed before you startLight Color Paper:• You need to print in reverse as the image is reflected back on the fabric. I used Powerpoint and flipped the images and writing and avoided the online Avery tool for doing so• As mentioned before, you don't have to cut very precisely as you only leave behind gloss/clear where you don't trimDark Color Paper:• You DO NOT need to print in reverse• You need peel of the printed paper BEFORE initiating transfer with an iron -I wasted one sheet not bing careful• The portion you don't trim transfer as white and you can create a border, rough or smooth, as I did with the front of the dark t shirt• Peeling the transfer portion from the t shirt before ironing is difficult....I used tweezers and eventually I managed to peel off the backing• You use an included parchment paper over the peeled paper to press the image onto the fabricFinal Impressions:• Don't expect professional grade printing• Recognize these are not permanent and are intended for fun and event needs• Mistakes and rough edges on my work is my own haste getting in the wayThis met my needs, to have a front/back t-shirt design on both dark and white t-shirts, using the appropriate paper for each color.**** UPDATE *****Both the white and black t shirts have been washed about 15 times each by now. And, they still look very nice.

Good product. Easy to use.

I have used the Epson iron on. It was okay. The Avery worked pretty well. You need to apply a lot of pressure to get the iron on to adhere to the shirt. You also need to peel the iron on back carefully andmake sure it is stuck to the shirt. I had to repeatedly iron as I pulled off to make sure the material stuckto the shirt. I let sit for 48 hours before washing. Then dried in dryer on Warm. So far the design isholding up. Put the shirt on a wood board, not an ironing board like the directions say to iron the designonto the material.