---
product_id: 667687938
title: "Bonlux Gx24q to E26 Adapter, Gx24q to E26/E27 Socket Adapter, Gx24 to Medium Edison Base Adapter, 4 Pin CFL Lamp Base Converter, Gx24/Gx24q to E26 Light Fixture, Remove Bypass The Ballast, 10-Pack"
brand: "bonlux"
price: "S/.110"
currency: PEN
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Bonlux"
url: https://www.desertcart.pe/products/667687938-bonlux-gx24q-to-e26-adapter-gx24q-to-e26-e27-socket
store_origin: PE
region: Peru
---

# Bypass ballast for LED upgrade Universal GX24q to E26/E27 fit Durable high-temp resistant build Bonlux Gx24q to E26 Adapter, Gx24q to E26/E27 Socket Adapter, Gx24 to Medium Edison Base Adapter, 4 Pin CFL Lamp Base Converter, Gx24/Gx24q to E26 Light Fixture, Remove Bypass The Ballast, 10-Pack

**Brand:** bonlux
**Price:** S/.110
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 💡 Upgrade your lighting game—ditch the ballast, embrace the future!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Bonlux Gx24q to E26 Adapter, Gx24q to E26/E27 Socket Adapter, Gx24 to Medium Edison Base Adapter, 4 Pin CFL Lamp Base Converter, Gx24/Gx24q to E26 Light Fixture, Remove Bypass The Ballast, 10-Pack by bonlux
- **How much does it cost?** S/.110 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.pe](https://www.desertcart.pe/products/667687938-bonlux-gx24q-to-e26-adapter-gx24q-to-e26-e27-socket)

## Best For

- bonlux enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted bonlux brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Built to Last:** Crafted with anti-burning, anti-aging PBT plastic for reliable, long-term performance.
- • **Ballast-Free Stability:** Eliminates flicker and ballast failures by bypassing outdated CFL ballasts safely.
- • **Effortless LED Conversion:** Twist in the adapter, remove ballast, and upgrade to energy-saving E26/E27 bulbs in minutes.
- • **Quick & Clean Installation:** Designed for hassle-free setup—save time and avoid costly fixture replacements.
- • **Seamless Universal Compatibility:** Fits all major 4-pin GX24q CFL bases for instant retrofit freedom.

## Overview

The Bonlux Gx24q to E26 Adapter is a smart, cost-effective 4-pin CFL base converter that transforms GX24q sockets into standard medium Edison bases (E26/E27). It enables seamless LED bulb compatibility by bypassing the ballast, ensuring flicker-free, energy-efficient lighting. Built with durable, heat-resistant materials, this 10-pack adapter is perfect for professionals and DIYers seeking a quick retrofit solution without rewiring or fixture replacement.

## Description

Bonlux Gx24q to E26 Adapter, Gx24q to E26/E27 Socket Adapter, Gx24 to Medium Edison Base Adapter, 4 Pin CFL Lamp Base Converter, Gx24/Gx24q to E26 Light Fixture, Remove Bypass The Ballast, 10-Pack - desertcart.com

Review: The most cost effective way to convert a can light - When one of my CFL light bulbs in a ceiling can light apparently burned out, I had no idea it was a plug in light bulb. And so I made the mistake of trying to turn it like a standard Edison light bulb. Well oh my god, glass all over the place. And tossed in the trash about $100 in food products that were sitting on the kitchen counter. What was even more curious was that before the bulb shattered while I was messing with it, it flashed on for a few moments. This was my clue that something was weird. I taped up the can light to prevent further damage, tossed the food and containers that might have had microscopic particles of glass in or on them into the trash, cleared the counter and floor and swept the area. I was finding glass for a week. I hate wearing shoes in my house. What a stupid idea, putting not screw in light bulbs in the ceiling especially in a home where the ceilings other than in the bathrooms and kitchen use screw in type bulbs. Hence my confusion. The builder of my home really made a mistake. So then I searched the web for why this light bulb would not unscrew, and determined that this CFL bulb needs an external ballast and that most likely the ballast and not the bulb was the problem. That the bulb briefly flashed on while it shattered in my hand made me certain that this was the case. I’ve had lots of experience with fluorescent tube ballasts going bad and replacing them. And by now I was so enraged at the notion of having these stupid ballasts and CFLs in my ceiling that it was time to get rid of this one. Scouring the internet there are lots of how row videos for how to install expensive kits to replace the entire can light with a new LED one. At $50 a pop I wanted a much simpler and cheaper solution. I don’t know how I came across this product but the more I looked it it, there more I decided that I had little to lose and much to gain by trying it. So it was one fine day a week into mandatory Covid-19 shelter in place. I was really bored and tired of one dark can light in my kitchen. So I read and reread the dirt simple instructions and, I also watched videos for how electricians open up the wiring box in the ceiling that connects the household current to the ballast and the ballast to the CFL bulb socket. I also examined my current ceiling light fixture. It is a conical fixture that has no cover: the light bulb is exposed. I call this fixture the bulb shield. The bulb shield can be pulled down from the ceiling until it stops. It is stopped by two retractable semi stiff wires that go through slots in the outside of the shield. The two stiff wires are connected to the sheet metal can that is in turn fastened by a wing nut to the ceiling. I can push the bulb shield in and out at will. So now I was ready. Before you start, turn off household current to the light fixture. Since there are three other lights on the same circuit, I just needed to switch off the circuit and tape it off and add tape over do not touch sign. If you have just one light on the circuit you will need to use the circuit breaker on the electrical panel. First step was to detach the bulb shield from the bulb socket. The bulb socket is wired to the ceiling with a metal insulator around wire. Do not cut those wires. The socket was held in the shield with spring loaded clips, and these were easy to move open to release the socket. As a side benefit I could now safely remove the rest of the broken cfl from the shield. There are two semi stiff wires from the can that hold the shield that go through slots on the outside of the shield. The stiff wires must be threaded through the slots to remove the can. The second step was to unfasten the can by removing the single wing nut. Third push the can back into the ceiling and out of the way. Fourth put a flashlight into the ceiling to see what is going on. In my case there is an electrical wiring box with a cover. The cover has two purposes. 1. Cover the wiring and 2. hold the screw for the aforementioned wing nut. The cover is held by a clip on the wiring box. Fifth remove the wiring box cover to expose all the wires and existing wire nuts. Sixth follow the actual written instructions that come with the product. The instructions are simple. Cut the white and black wires that are going into ballast; these are the household current wires. I cut them as close to the hole here the wires go in to ballast as possible to give me lots of wire to work with. that are the house hold current. Cut red and black wires that come out of that same hole. Again as close as possible. I had two pair of each. Strip the ends of each write. Using a new wire nut, bind the two red wires and the black wire together. Using a second new wire but, bind the two blue wires and the white wire together. Now the ballast is cut off and out of the picture from an electrical perspective. Some people like to remote the ballast but this would have made a 10 minute job a 100 minute job as there isn’t a lot of room up there to find the screws holding the ballast in place. So I left it there. Seventh. Stuff the wires back into the electrical box. Eighth. Cover the box. Ninth remove the flash light and turn it off. Tenth. Pull the can down and position the hole over the screw. This is the hardest part and you might find a flash light is helpful. Worst case tie a thread to the screw and thread the thread through the hole in the can. I didn’t need to do this but it took 4 tries. 11th, place the can where it was before (in my case the bottom of the cab was flush with the ceiling joists just before the drywall) and thread and tighten the wing nut so that the can stays firmly in place. 12th: put the bulb shield back. Re-clip the bulb socket into the opening. Re-thread the stiff wires from the can into the bulb shield. Push the bulb shield into the can. This might require several tries so that the shield is flush with the ceilings. 13th plug the product that is the subject of this review into the socket. 14th screw an led bulb into the socket. You MUST use an led bulb. An incandescent build will draw too much current and the red and blue wires are too thin a gauge. I used a 10 kilo watt build. I am also concerned that a screw in CFL bulb (which of course has a built in ballast) will draw too much surge current when the circuit is turned on. This is a low current application. 15th, remove the tape from the wall switch. And turn on the light. It worked! I had one minor hiccup when the led light bulb went dark after ten minutes. I played with slightly unscrewing the bulb and it would work for a while and then go dark. I finally realized the problem. The standard Edison bulb and socket has two slightly different but compatible sizes. This product is from Europe and so must be using the slightly larger Edison socket to my USA bulb. The heat from the live connection expands must have expanded the metal in the screw in socket of the product and thus weakened the electrical contact. And my bulb was a dollar store special. The answer is to firmly tighten the bulb in the screw in socket of the product. This goes against natural instruct if you were born in the 20th century. I am are loth to do so with glass incandescent bulbs because the outcome is always a shattered bulb. But my led bulb is plastic. So tighten away. Worse case a trip to the store to get a new bulb and no cuts on my fingers. The bulb now shines reliably. I am so elated.
Review: Doesn - It didn't work for me. I tried different light bulbs and they keep dimming out. They will light and in a second the light bulb light will turn off. Great idea to save money and if the seller can find out what's the problem I would purchase again.

## Features

- Universal Compatibility-GX24q to E26 adapter is designed to fit a wide range of CFL 4 pin GX24 bases including G24Q-1, G24Q-2, G24Q-3, GX24Q-1, GX24Q-2 and GX24Q-3, ensuring a seamless fit for your lighting needs. Please verify the base type before purchase to guarantee compatibility.
- Effortless Conversion-Transform your existing GX24Q socket into a standard E26/E27 medium base with ease. Simply twist the adapter into place, and you're ready to use any standard medium-sized bulb. Remember to remove the ballast first for proper installation.
- No Ballast Required-This GX24q to E26/E27 socket adapter eliminates the need for a ballast. It's crucial to bypass or remove the existing ballast to prevent damage to the E26 bulb or flickering issues, ensuring a stable and safe lighting experience.
- Durable and Safe-Bonlux Gx24q to E26/E27 socket adapter is constructed with high-temperature resistant materials, including anti-burning PBT and anti-aging components, this G24q/Gx24q adapter offers enhanced safety and durability, ensuring long-lasting performance in your home or office.
- Easy Installation-Experience hassle-free installation with this G24q to E26 adapter. It's designed for quick and straightforward integration into your current lighting setup, saving you time and effort.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B0DCRV3CZW |
| Base Type | Medium |
| Best Sellers Rank | #184,211 in Tools & Home Improvement ( See Top 100 in Tools & Home Improvement ) #718 in Light Sockets |
| Brand | Bonlux |
| Brand Name | Bonlux |
| Color | White |
| Customer Reviews | 3.8 out of 5 stars 309 Reviews |
| Included Components | NO |
| Manufacturer | Lusta LED Co., Ltd |
| Material | Plastic |
| Material Type | Plastic |
| Specification Met | UL |
| UPC | 780887427441 |
| Voltage | 120 Volts |
| Warranty Description | 1 year |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Bonlux
- **Material:** Plastic
- **Color:** White
- **Voltage:** 120 Volts
- **Specification Met:** UL

## Images

![Bonlux Gx24q to E26 Adapter, Gx24q to E26/E27 Socket Adapter, Gx24 to Medium Edison Base Adapter, 4 Pin CFL Lamp Base Converter, Gx24/Gx24q to E26 Light Fixture, Remove Bypass The Ballast, 10-Pack - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61rPi5KvfmL.jpg)
![Bonlux Gx24q to E26 Adapter, Gx24q to E26/E27 Socket Adapter, Gx24 to Medium Edison Base Adapter, 4 Pin CFL Lamp Base Converter, Gx24/Gx24q to E26 Light Fixture, Remove Bypass The Ballast, 10-Pack - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61loyd9AaXL.jpg)
![Bonlux Gx24q to E26 Adapter, Gx24q to E26/E27 Socket Adapter, Gx24 to Medium Edison Base Adapter, 4 Pin CFL Lamp Base Converter, Gx24/Gx24q to E26 Light Fixture, Remove Bypass The Ballast, 10-Pack - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71100PGH-DL.jpg)
![Bonlux Gx24q to E26 Adapter, Gx24q to E26/E27 Socket Adapter, Gx24 to Medium Edison Base Adapter, 4 Pin CFL Lamp Base Converter, Gx24/Gx24q to E26 Light Fixture, Remove Bypass The Ballast, 10-Pack - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71ovextlHZL.jpg)
![Bonlux Gx24q to E26 Adapter, Gx24q to E26/E27 Socket Adapter, Gx24 to Medium Edison Base Adapter, 4 Pin CFL Lamp Base Converter, Gx24/Gx24q to E26 Light Fixture, Remove Bypass The Ballast, 10-Pack - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/619zZ9tBXBL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Number Of Items** options.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ The most cost effective way to convert a can light
*by P***R on March 22, 2020*

When one of my CFL light bulbs in a ceiling can light apparently burned out, I had no idea it was a plug in light bulb. And so I made the mistake of trying to turn it like a standard Edison light bulb. Well oh my god, glass all over the place. And tossed in the trash about $100 in food products that were sitting on the kitchen counter. What was even more curious was that before the bulb shattered while I was messing with it, it flashed on for a few moments. This was my clue that something was weird. I taped up the can light to prevent further damage, tossed the food and containers that might have had microscopic particles of glass in or on them into the trash, cleared the counter and floor and swept the area. I was finding glass for a week. I hate wearing shoes in my house. What a stupid idea, putting not screw in light bulbs in the ceiling especially in a home where the ceilings other than in the bathrooms and kitchen use screw in type bulbs. Hence my confusion. The builder of my home really made a mistake. So then I searched the web for why this light bulb would not unscrew, and determined that this CFL bulb needs an external ballast and that most likely the ballast and not the bulb was the problem. That the bulb briefly flashed on while it shattered in my hand made me certain that this was the case. I’ve had lots of experience with fluorescent tube ballasts going bad and replacing them. And by now I was so enraged at the notion of having these stupid ballasts and CFLs in my ceiling that it was time to get rid of this one. Scouring the internet there are lots of how row videos for how to install expensive kits to replace the entire can light with a new LED one. At $50 a pop I wanted a much simpler and cheaper solution. I don’t know how I came across this product but the more I looked it it, there more I decided that I had little to lose and much to gain by trying it. So it was one fine day a week into mandatory Covid-19 shelter in place. I was really bored and tired of one dark can light in my kitchen. So I read and reread the dirt simple instructions and, I also watched videos for how electricians open up the wiring box in the ceiling that connects the household current to the ballast and the ballast to the CFL bulb socket. I also examined my current ceiling light fixture. It is a conical fixture that has no cover: the light bulb is exposed. I call this fixture the bulb shield. The bulb shield can be pulled down from the ceiling until it stops. It is stopped by two retractable semi stiff wires that go through slots in the outside of the shield. The two stiff wires are connected to the sheet metal can that is in turn fastened by a wing nut to the ceiling. I can push the bulb shield in and out at will. So now I was ready. Before you start, turn off household current to the light fixture. Since there are three other lights on the same circuit, I just needed to switch off the circuit and tape it off and add tape over do not touch sign. If you have just one light on the circuit you will need to use the circuit breaker on the electrical panel. First step was to detach the bulb shield from the bulb socket. The bulb socket is wired to the ceiling with a metal insulator around wire. Do not cut those wires. The socket was held in the shield with spring loaded clips, and these were easy to move open to release the socket. As a side benefit I could now safely remove the rest of the broken cfl from the shield. There are two semi stiff wires from the can that hold the shield that go through slots on the outside of the shield. The stiff wires must be threaded through the slots to remove the can. The second step was to unfasten the can by removing the single wing nut. Third push the can back into the ceiling and out of the way. Fourth put a flashlight into the ceiling to see what is going on. In my case there is an electrical wiring box with a cover. The cover has two purposes. 1. Cover the wiring and 2. hold the screw for the aforementioned wing nut. The cover is held by a clip on the wiring box. Fifth remove the wiring box cover to expose all the wires and existing wire nuts. Sixth follow the actual written instructions that come with the product. The instructions are simple. Cut the white and black wires that are going into ballast; these are the household current wires. I cut them as close to the hole here the wires go in to ballast as possible to give me lots of wire to work with. that are the house hold current. Cut red and black wires that come out of that same hole. Again as close as possible. I had two pair of each. Strip the ends of each write. Using a new wire nut, bind the two red wires and the black wire together. Using a second new wire but, bind the two blue wires and the white wire together. Now the ballast is cut off and out of the picture from an electrical perspective. Some people like to remote the ballast but this would have made a 10 minute job a 100 minute job as there isn’t a lot of room up there to find the screws holding the ballast in place. So I left it there. Seventh. Stuff the wires back into the electrical box. Eighth. Cover the box. Ninth remove the flash light and turn it off. Tenth. Pull the can down and position the hole over the screw. This is the hardest part and you might find a flash light is helpful. Worst case tie a thread to the screw and thread the thread through the hole in the can. I didn’t need to do this but it took 4 tries. 11th, place the can where it was before (in my case the bottom of the cab was flush with the ceiling joists just before the drywall) and thread and tighten the wing nut so that the can stays firmly in place. 12th: put the bulb shield back. Re-clip the bulb socket into the opening. Re-thread the stiff wires from the can into the bulb shield. Push the bulb shield into the can. This might require several tries so that the shield is flush with the ceilings. 13th plug the product that is the subject of this review into the socket. 14th screw an led bulb into the socket. You MUST use an led bulb. An incandescent build will draw too much current and the red and blue wires are too thin a gauge. I used a 10 kilo watt build. I am also concerned that a screw in CFL bulb (which of course has a built in ballast) will draw too much surge current when the circuit is turned on. This is a low current application. 15th, remove the tape from the wall switch. And turn on the light. It worked! I had one minor hiccup when the led light bulb went dark after ten minutes. I played with slightly unscrewing the bulb and it would work for a while and then go dark. I finally realized the problem. The standard Edison bulb and socket has two slightly different but compatible sizes. This product is from Europe and so must be using the slightly larger Edison socket to my USA bulb. The heat from the live connection expands must have expanded the metal in the screw in socket of the product and thus weakened the electrical contact. And my bulb was a dollar store special. The answer is to firmly tighten the bulb in the screw in socket of the product. This goes against natural instruct if you were born in the 20th century. I am are loth to do so with glass incandescent bulbs because the outcome is always a shattered bulb. But my led bulb is plastic. So tighten away. Worse case a trip to the store to get a new bulb and no cuts on my fingers. The bulb now shines reliably. I am so elated.

### ⭐ Doesn
*by J***. on February 4, 2026*

It didn't work for me. I tried different light bulbs and they keep dimming out. They will light and in a second the light bulb light will turn off. Great idea to save money and if the seller can find out what's the problem I would purchase again.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great product at a great price.
*by A***A on October 20, 2025*

We used these in a commercial building. Had an electrician do a ballast bypass on our bollard lights outside the building entryway. Used these adapters with regular E26 LED bulbs instead of 4 pin fluorescent bulbs that we were using for years. The fit and quality are great. These worked really well and very happy with the product and outcome. Highly recommend!

## Frequently Bought Together

- Bonlux Gx24q to E26 Adapter, Gx24q to E26/E27 Socket Adapter, Gx24 to Medium Edison Base Adapter, 4 Pin CFL Lamp Base Converter, Gx24/Gx24q to E26 Light Fixture, Remove Bypass The Ballast, 10-Pack
- 2 Pack JACKYLED GU24 to E26 Adapter, Up to 392℉ Heat Resistant Converts GU24 Bi-Pin Based Fixture to E26 E27 Standard Screw-in Socket Adapter
- 4 Pack JACKYLED GU24 to E26 E27 Adapter, Heat Resistant Up to 392℉ Fire Resistant Converts GU24 Bi-Pin Based Fixture to E26 E27 Standard Screw-in Socket

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*Product available on Desertcart Peru*
*Store origin: PE*
*Last updated: 2026-03-13*