CARPRO IronX Iron Remover: Stops Rust Spots and Pre-Mature Failure of the Clear Coat, Iron Contaminant Removal - 500mL with Sprayer (17oz)

This product works great and exactly as advertised. So first a bit of background about the problem I was faced with and then a review of the product itself... BACKGROUND: Over the years my car has accumulated a bunch of orange specks all over the roof, hood, and doors and I couldn't figure out where it all was coming from! I initially thought it was tree sap since I left my car parked on the street under a tree for an extended period of time (said tree being the only tree for miles since I live in NYC) but the products I bought online and home remedies like isopropyl rubbing alcohol didn't work. Racking my brain, I did more research online and finally found a pretty common problem called "rail dust", which are orange specks on your car that can accumulate, for example, from the tiny little iron flakes emitted from your brake pads whenever you use them. But how could it have gotten over my ENTIRE car I wondered? It just so happens that I live by an elevated train track and also an area where there's a lot of construction. So when I parked under said train track or near construction sites, the subway train track residue, brake flakes from the train, and burning bits of cut steel debris were flying onto my car! The flakes are intensely hot upon impact with the car and embed themselves in the clear coat (top layer of your car's paint). Then, after time, the little metal bits begin to rust from exposure to rain, the elements, etc. Needless to say, I had my work cut out for me but didn't feel like shoveling out hundreds of $$$ to a car detailing shop to fix the problem. That's where IronX came in.... THE REVIEW: For issues with "rail dust", the general recommendation from the car community was use IronX. This stuff works wonders. Since I don't have a house or driveway to wash my own car, and since application of this stuff requires you to work in the shade and have the ability to thoroughly wash down the car, I had to locate a self-service car wash which wasn't easy around these parts but managed to finally find the last existing one in the tri-state area in Mount Vernon. After washing my car, I sprayed this stuff all over, watched the applied spray turn from clear to purple, waited 5 minutes for it to do its magic, then rinsed everything off. The PROS: This stuff works wonders. A lot (but not all) of the orange specks were gone after the first application (I say first because I had to do it again - see CONS below). The car looked noticeably better (apologies for not having before and after photos). I know it would have helped but just take my word for it. This stuff WORKS. Now, for... The CONS: (1) As mentioned above, the rail rust had accumulated on my car over the course of years and it was EVERYWHERE, not just on the side panels as is the case for most users, so this could partially be my fault. Anyway, the smaller bottle (500ml) was not enough to spray my entire car so as I was noticeably running out of fluid I had to use it sparingly on some sections and ran out before the job was finished. I ended up buying the larger bottle (1L) and going back the next weekend for Round 2 and applied the stuff liberally everywhere and got it all off. [Side note: I strongly recommend rubbing the stuff in with a clean, moist sponge before rinsing everything off just to make sure you've gotten it all where it needs to go and evenly.] And (2) This stuff STINKS!! And I cannot overstate this enough. I saw the other reviews and didn't think it was a big deal and went ahead with my project without using a face mask. BIG MISTAKE! The first time with the 500mL bottle honestly wasn't so bad (maybe the wind was blowing away from me the whole time) but the second time with the 1L bottle....that's when it got REALLY bad! The wind changed direction and blew the spray back into my face. The smell was like I got spritzed by a skunk. In the face. At point-blank range. It was bad. Not only in the moment or right after too. I went to a friend's family BBQ later that day and couldn't get the stench out of my nostrils. I kept asking people if they smelled that horrid smell but no one could. It was just me and I felt nauseous for most of the day. So PLEASE....use a face mask. CONCLUSION: Great product and highly recommend for rail rust (aka rusted orange specks on your car's paint). If it looks like you're facing a pretty big job involving multiple panels on the car and/or the wheels, save yourself the trouble and get the larger 1L bottle. And please, for the love of God, wear a face mask when applying this stuff!

I used this to clean brake dust off the aluminum wheels on my car and it worked great. I used a soft brush and it cleaned off all of the hard to remove dust easily. It does smell a bit but not too bad. Highly recommended for this.

I seen a mixed review about this product and I was reluctant to spend $24 for one bottle. But I had break pad break down and spray tons of orange rust on the side of my car. So i went for it! People say it stinks, but i thought it didn't smell much at all especially spraying it outside. Also, it really does turn red-purple as it converts the rust into water. I did spray it and let it sit about 3-5 minutes and then sprayed it off. Then I did it again for another 3 min and scrubbed it with a dish scrubber. I rinsed again. And it really restored my paint job! Some of the rust damaged the clearcoat but as long as the rust is gone, and it looks a lot better. This stuff really does work, but just my tip to make it work is: don't leave it on more than 5 min and rinse it at a car wash...do it a second time at 3 min, and scrub it good until your scrubber is black. Then rinse it again really good with soap and water and also use the scrub brush at the car wash. Rinse clean and the rust stains are gone as you watch the purple liquified rust dust go down the drain!

Bought Iron-X to clean my wheel drums on my car. I took each wheel off and then sprayed the inside drum with this product and works great. Here are the details. First DO NOT use Iron-X in any type of enclosed structure no matter how open air it is, this sh*t smells strong. I took my wheels to the middle of an open field and stood mostly on the upwind side of the tires whilst I was working on them. Anything growing on the ground under the wheels or near them will either die or wish it had. Other items to have on hand with this product would be bricks to raise your wheels/tires off the ground while you are working on them (three per tire should do it), disposable rubber gloves, eye protection, a sponge with a smooth and rough side to it, a connected water hose, paper towels, and a small trash can lined with a plastic garbage bag. I put my rubber gloves on and set up my wheels, sprayed on the Iron-X, let it sit about ten minutes, hosed it off, and then dried wheels off with paper towels. Next I sprayed it on again and took the rough side of the sponge and scrubbed the inside of my wheel drums being careful not to get any of the product on my skin. After I did that I hosed the wheels down again, dried them with paper towels, and then let them air dry for about an hour before sealing them up with Jet Seal. As for the unused Iron-X you may still have in the bottle? While still wearing gloves, I put mine in a zip-lock bag and put it in the outside storage room. Throw your used gloves, sponge, and paper towels in the trash can, tie up the bag, and leave it outside for trash day. Do not bring it in the house. Take off your shoes and hose down their soles before you go trancing through your house. When you do get in your house, take off your clothes, take a shower, and put on clean clothes. I took away one star because the sh*t smells so bad, but hey, what ya gonna do? It works great. I rather it work great smell like sh*t, than the other way around.

This stuff works awesome! Had a brake go bad in my truck, rusty brake dust was stuck all over my wheel and tail gate. After I fixed the brakes I used this and all the stuck on rust came right off like it was never there.

I recently got iron contaminants all over my car, I recently bought this vehicle as well so that was a bummer and I was quickly looking to buy something to get rid of all the spots before it was too late. I saw this all over youtube and social media so I decided to give it a try even tho it’s a bit pricey it was very much worth it. All the contaminants washed right off. The smell wasn’t so pleasant…I could smell it on my car for a few days after the fact but it went away. Car looked brand new again. Will be purchasing again.

I purchased a Toyota 4Runner in Texas and had it shipped via a vehicle transport company, open, to me in Oregon. Toyota paint is already thin and sensitive, so I knew the vehicle would be exposed to the elements during the long journey through several states. I decided to use IronX because of the many positive reviews I had read. I washed the 4Runner and started with a test spot to ensure the product worked well. I applied the product outdoors to avoid trapping fumes in a confined space. To my surprise, it worked! I then proceeded to apply to the rest of the vehicle to prepare it for PPF treatment. The product is easy to work with if you follow the instructions. The bottle advertised a new, improved formula with less odor, but it still had a strong smell. The best way to describe it is like the smell of a bad 80’s hair perm. I could smell it after I finished working on the vehicle, and it lingered on the 4Runner overnight.

First it works, if it turns purple anywhere it is dissolving rust! The reasons for three stars is... My ford sho has chrome stickers around tailights i thought it was real chrome till this happened. After i wiped down it peeled over 50% of it off. Really no way to fix besides paint it black or white or buy new tail lights. Beware if u have any decal type chrome... tape them up or do something to protect. Or better yet dont use this product. Use a polishing compund with an orbital. This will get it off just fine. If i could take it back.., and do that i would cause it could be a $1000 mistake. Also the purple s***t gets everywhere it pools through seams and gets in trunk are under hood in doors i had to go to car wash twice to get it all off in combo with wiping it down. It had to seep throuh where it was(under rear window glass.. Anywhere it will pool and slowly run down)to get to where i could wipe it. Also left purle crap on garage floor i wiped it all up but took a while. *** bottom line try to buff it out first use clay bar the a product like meguiars ultimate compund and a orbital and it will most likely get it all out. Then Wax to protect it from coming back and ur good. This product imho is just a lazy way to get it off and as most lazy shortcuts, there are consequences! Now this peeling issue was only on chrome type decal or stickers, if your car has none on it u should be safe, but i suggest doing this at a dyi carwash so it can seep down their drain and not pool on your cement or ruin your lawn! Not hear to bash a product and it does work. I am simply someone who used this product and ended up causing damage to the car! So to save u the trouble i wrote this. And if u have chrome decal or u are not sure if u do u can tell if it is actually metal or olastic with chrome paint by flicking ur finger and listening and feeling my car has real chrome on trunk and the chrome paint on headlight trim and there is a clear difference in sound and feel! Now evwn if u tape it up there is no sure way to tell if the ironx will seep in a bit on the edges and when u peel the tape off the chrome laint may come with! Luke insaid us a buff compound. Meguiars ultimate works great and make sure it says compound as polish will not cut enough to get it polish is meant to use after and is not really needed unless u have dark colored paint where it gives that wet look.