Walnut 24 x 96-inch Flat Cut, 3M Peel and Stick Wood Veneer Sheet – Self-Adhesive Wood Veneer, A Grade, Smooth-Finished – Versatile for Furniture Restoration, Cabinetry & DIY Use

This is one of my best buys from Amazon! Absolutely beautiful Mahogany veneer that is extremly easy to use and stain. I needed to replaced the veneer fronts of two antique dresser drawers. The cost of having an antique repair shop do them was prohibitive, so after watching a few You Tube videos, I decided to see if I could do them myself and ordered the veneer from Amazon. I was thrilled to open the box and see the quality... the wood grain of the mahogany veneer is beautiful and it was very easy to apply. I do suggest watching a You Tube video, it helped. The drawers came out better than I could have imagined and they look exactly like (if not better than) the original veneer on the remaining two drawer fronts. Very easy to sand and stain.

The item description is wrong, this is not peel-and-stick. It is PSA, pressure-sensitive adhesive. It is slightly tacky and easy to work with, then apply pressure to set the adhesive. So far, no failures. Vaneer grain quality was excellent and similar to the picture. Very pretty product and very easy to use. Shame about the poor item description.

Beautiful material, thick with the backing and easy to work with, with the 3M Peel & Stick. I was creating Shaker-Style End Panels for my cabinets - Real White Oak Rails & Stiles and the veneer over 1/4 birch plywood for the center panels. A couple of installation notes that are important. First, I gave the Plywood two coats of Water-Based Polycrylic with a light 240 grit sanding. This will give much better adherence to the Veneer 3M coating by sealing the Ply to a smooth surface. Then, it's best to be in a warm environment. A bit cool in my basement workshop, so I applied upstairs in a heated room at about 70F Next, when you apply it is critical that you apply pressure across the Veneer - it's important to know that the adhesive is PRESSURE activated. But additionally, you need to ensure all the bubbles are worked out before it sets up. I used a combination of a carpet-tucking tool and a J-Roller. Roll/Push from center out initially in both planes. I found I could hear a 'Rice Krispies' type of popping as I pushed small bubbles (these were not visible, the only indication was the audible response as you 'pressed' them.) Once confident it was pretty well , at least initially, secured, I flipped and trimmed it. Blade with the grain and, although you can cross cut with multiple blade strokes, a veneer saw gives much cleaner cut in that plane. An alternative to a specific Veneer saw could be a Japanese Pull Saw, blade with a finer, higher tooth count. Then flipped back over and worked the veneer surface some more with heavy pressure from the J-Roller, especially towards the edges. The now combined panels will be cut to final size on the table saw and given a final finish or Rubio Monocoat. Some reviews stated they had bubbles - in my opinion the Bubbles are due to inadequate preparation and application technique. This adhesive is fabulous but can only work as well as it will be applied.

Peel and stick sheeting is so easy to work with, cuts with a good pair of scissors or razor knife to work in most any project. The peel and stick adheres very well and turned my old banged up cabinets into a great new look! My only complaint/warning that knocked it down a star is that it did not take to polyurethane the same way other veneer sheets or lumber of the same species... (different manufacturers') possibly because of the pre-applied peel and stick trapping air? but a little pre-staining made the difference, just not something I needed to do on other products. staining is a caution helpful tip

Ruined a vintage china cabinet that I was restoring. I properly prepped and cleaned all surfaces and used a j roller to press the veneer on. I relaxed the veneer ahead of time and acclimated the furniture and veneer in the same space for 2 days before installation. I’m so mad about the time I’m going to have to spend to peel the veneer off and see if any of it is salvageable. I was in the fence about using adhesive backed and I should have gone with a separate glue down veneer. I’ve lost days worth of time due to this mistake of a purchase.

I was able to use this to re-finish a vintage Pioneer receiver cabinet. On the larger areas I had an issue with an air bubble. Need to be very careful when applying this. Center to outside. The only other thing is that when it arrived it was hard to flatten out. I'm a novice and the result was acceptable for me.

I’ve ordered this walnut edge banding twice and have been impressed with the quality. The grain pattern is consistent with natural variations, and the veneer is thick enough for minor sanding if needed. It’s easy to apply with a standard iron (cotton setting works well) and adheres strongly across surfaces like plywood and deglossed laminate. Just be careful not to overheat, as it can cause the adhesive to run slightly. Durability has been excellent with no peeling or lifting, even on multiple projects. For trimming, both manual edge trimmers and a router with a high-quality flush trim bit work smoothly. The product is versatile for furniture projects, and even beginner woodworkers will find it straightforward to use. My tip for best results: ensure the surface is well-prepped and dust-free to maximize hold.

This is such a great looking, beautiful veneer. Easy to use, I put it on a vintage speaker pair (AR4xz) and left the original vinyl covering on. The adhesion is superb and the look is fantastic. I used a clear acrylic to preserve the natural (light) color of the walnut rather than darken it with typical varnishes or other applications; the results are superb.