Fotodiox 10-Reverse-Canon-49 49MM Macro Reverse Mount Adapter for Canon Models

BEFORE YOU PUT THIS ON YOUR LENS: carefully tighten the tiny screw that keeps the little release tab from flexing sideways. If you don’t this will get stuck on your lens and you’ll be using dental picks and sewing needles for hours trying to dislodge it. That’s what happened to me.After getting it off and tightening the screw so the lever/tab would actuate freely—but not flex—this thing worked great.I can now use a bunch of (1960s-1970s) Nikkor/Nikon/Nikkormat lenses on my new Canon T2i. Yes, it will let you use those ancient lenses with the crazy bayonet prong thingy sticking up that used to fork into the SLR prism meters of the old film cameras.The short answer: Yes, this adapter let me use old Nikon/Nikkor lenses on my Canon. They were really old lenses and most had that weird f/stop meter fork prong sticking up from the f/stop ring. I’m very happy with this purchase.This worked with these old lenses I happened to have lying around, which I’ll list because some online sources say some of this won’t/will fit on digital cameras, but if it’s an old Nikkor it probably will work with this adapter onto your Canon Body. Here’s what I had that worked:Now the really LONG answer with all sorts of cautions, opinions, etc. that you may or may not find interesting or useful:WARNING #1: BEFORE YOU PUT THIS ON A NIKON/NIKKOR/NIKKORMAT LENS make sure that the screw that holds the little black lever tab on is tight! If it’s loose the lever tab will flex sideways and not really go up and down so then it won’t pull the pin upward, which will jam this adapter onto your lens.This happened to me and the little pin had to be pulled up with a dental pick and an xacto blade while unscrewing the adapter (righty loosey!). So: test to make sure the release pin moves up and down with no sideways play.Once off the lens (it worked fine on the other 5) I used lock tight on the tiny screw and tightened it. I made sure it was still loose enough that the black lever-tab could operate the locking pin up and down. Eventually I’m going to get one of these for each of my 6 Nikkor lenses along with 6 Canon endcaps (because with the adapter on the rear of the lens it is Canon size now and the old Nikon endcaps wouldn’t fit anymore).WARNING #2 WHAT LENSES CAN I USE: well, pretty much anything that has the 54-year-old-and-still- in-use Nikon ‘F’ mount. Nikon/Nikkor/Nikkormat SLR cameras have been using the same mount since 1959, so if you have an ancient lens for these film cameras there’s a pretty darn good chance this ring will let you use them on your Canon. By the way: none of my lenses actually said "F" or "F Mount" on them: they had all sorts of other letters. F is the mounting system, not the lens type/name.BUT YOU MUST BE CAREFUL!! A few of the old Nikkor lenses had a crazy metal tab that sticks about an 1” into the camera. These will NOT work—unless you use a dremel tool to cut that tab off, then it’ll work fine. If you don’t cut that huge tab off then it will smash into your mirror. I’m NOT talking about the little black metal tabs that are on many of these lenses and look like tiny nubby cute rabbit ears like upside down ‘L’s; or the low black or chrome curved ridges on the rear of the lenses—these are usually fine to have. Most of my lenses had two or three rabbit ear tabs and worked fine. You can’t even see them when the adapter is on. The thing you DO have to be careful of is a (rare) SHARP & HUGE ‘L’ thing with the top of the ‘L’ poking into the camera body. . If you have a huge ‘L’ shaped tab that sticks past the adapter and into the camera: STOP! You need to remove that tab.Also, I’ve read of some of the older lenses had really big curved flanges—like a shark fin that would have to be dremeled off. I can only speak to the 6 lenses I tried. Mine just had normal flanges (black and chrome) and plastic rings and spikey blocky things, but no huge shark fins. Your mileage will vary. MAKE SURE NOTHING WILL HIT YOUR MIRROR OR THE ELECTRICAL CONTACTS OF YOUR CAMERA BODY.A few Nikon lenses have a really tall fin/flange that goes almost all the way around. These may have to be removed as well. It should be pretty obvious if you’ve got a lens that will need grinding. Maybe I just lucked out with half-a-dozen that worked with no grinding. It should be really obvious and I don’t mean to make anyone paranoid. Personally, I’m not in the mood to grind anything, so if I dig up a lens with a tall ‘L’ or a huge shark fin flange, I’m probably just not going to use it—unless it’s one of the huge flanges that is screwed on: then I’d take it off and try.To be clear: ALL these old lenses will have LITTLE tabs and ears sticking out of them. It’s just any huge ones that would hit your mirror that could be a problem. Looking online it seems *most* old Nikkor lenses don’t have these huge tabs anyway.MY EXPERIENCE: With the adapter on each of my lenses NOTHING stuck past the adapter going into the camera Happily, NONE of the 6 mega-old lenses I got from a family member had any really tall tabs or flanges or L-thingies that interfered with fitment.I had three old Nikon film SLR camera bodies (F body, EM body and a Nikkormat body) with six old lenses that worked interchangeably with them all. Since 1959 Nikon has used the ‘F-mount’ system on their SLRs, so there are many Nikon lenses in the world that will fit your Canon with this adapter. I have a Canon T2i.MOUNTING: remember that RIGHTY IS LOOSEY on Nikon F-mount lenses! A major source of irritation if you’re used to righty tighty. Oh, and many of the lenses have all sorts of letters on them—none actually said ‘F’ or ‘F Mount’ on them, so yours probably won’t either.The adapter fits VERY tight onto the lenses-and NORMAL tight onto the Canon body. It’s so tight on the lens that you’ll probably end up buying one for each lens so you can just leave them on—which is since you’re probably not going to put them back on your old Nikon film camera anyway (ie, the reason you’re shopping for adapters in the first place). Once in place it goes on/off the Canon body like any Canon lens. Nice and easy and clicks into place.YES IT WORKS: old Nikkor/Nikon/Nikormat lenses, even the ones with that crazy metering/fstop FORK thing on the top/outside work just fine! My ancient 1960s-80s Nikkor lenses fit on the Canon and the camera meters through them. I’ve noticed that the faster (f1.8) Nikkor lenses overexpose slightly on auto-everything. Fine: it’s a DSLR, just adjust your exposure and see what you get.I also bought an adapter like this one that lets me use my old Olympus OM Zuiko lenses from the 70s and the fast f1.8 50mm Olympus lens also overexposes a little. The 500mm telephoto and the slower lenses meter fine using auto-everything on the Canon (I used the silver rectangle with the line through it showing “no-flash” selected on the rotating knob of the Canon).F/STOP: my Nikkor lenses all stopped down (depth-of-field preview mode) because nothing on the camera or adapter hits the old lens levers ~that’s a GREAT thing, you can use different f/stops instead of just wide open because of this. The bigger the f/stop you dial in the darker the view is and the larger the depth-of-field. I like that. I don’t have to hold down any depth-of-field preview button or anything. I just get the f/stop I want by turning the ring on the lens, focus by turning the other ring on the lens and snapping a photo. Some people might have a problem with this: the larger the f/stop number the darker the view is, which makes it harder to manually focus properly. When you use these lenses on old film cameras there is a lever that opens the f/stop until the shutter is tripped (or if you held down the depth-of-field preview button either on the lens or the camera body depending on the brand)—which is why the view wouldn’t darken on film cameras no matter what f/stop you chose (although some lenses didn’t have this feature and still would show a darker view depending on f/stop). Anyway: this is a good thing. You see what your f/stop choice does to your focus and since the Canon can meter with these old lenses everything comes out fine in the end. My Tamron 500m for Olympus is like that: no matter if I put it on a film SLR or a DSLR the f/stop changes the brightness and depth of field you see while looking through the lens and trying to focus-there is no non-preview mode. I’ve read (but not sure if true) that even though most Nikon DSLRs will mount old “F’ mount lenses SOME Nikon DSLRs supposedly cannot METER through them. That doesn’t sound like fun.NO IT WON’T AUTOFOCUS: my Nikon lenses are so old they didn’t autofocus in the first place, so this wasn’t an issue. There is no sensor on this adapter, so you don’t get any sort of autofocus confirmation either. Again, my lenses were from early 70s so they never did that in the first place. Some of these types of adapters will have a circuit board thingy on them for use with newer lenses: you still have to manually focus, but the camera will notify you when you’ve achieved focus by blinking a light or something. I’ve read that these can and do burn out after a while anyway—so I went with this cheapy adapter. Even if I did have lenses with some electronic features I wouldn’t want them communicating with my nice new camera body through a cheap adapter and possibly shorting something out: but who knows, maybe they work awesome. The only autofocus lenses I own are the ones that came with the new Canon T2i kit. All the old Nikkors (and others) I have lying around are manual focus to begin with.FOCUS: some lenses (possibly) won’t be in focus at infinity if you dial the focus ring all the way out. I didn’t have that issue, but I’ve read that you just focus all the way out, and then *in* a little and you’re fine. So, no biggie there: look with your eyes—either it’s focused or not.WHY DO THIS? Because the Canon T2i (and probably other EOS bodies) meter through anything you can adapter-ring or duct tape onto the front of them you can use totally awesome lenses that you can find ultra-cheap online or even at garage sales. You can buy a box of expensive “film camera” lenses for five bucks and laugh when they ask you “film is dead, what are you going to do with those old lenses?” Adapt them!I spent a lot of money in the past on nice lenses, and with a few cheap adapters I can re-use them on my Canon. Since Canon’s *video* is considered by many to be better than some of Nikon’s models (no wavy jellybeany video while panning, manual controls, longer HD record time, 1080 HD, etc.) you’ll find lots of people shooting VIDEO with Nikon/Nikkor lenses on Canon Bodies. Why-it looks great and is lots of fun!IN SUMMARY:-Righty loosey, lefty tighty with Nikon lenses.-Make sure the black lever tap pulls the pin upward, if not: tighten the screw *before* jamming it onto a lens; or, buy an adapter for every lens you have and just leave them on (and then get CANON rear dustcaps—not Nikon—for the rear of each lens).-Make sure nothing is sticking past the adapter and then they’re be nothing to poke your mirror and break it.-My six lenses (listed) worked just fine. Your mileage may vary due to manufacturing changes over the decades.-It’s nice to be able to use old expensive lenses again for cheap. Now you can hunt around your parent’s/grandparent’s basement and double or triple the amount of lenses you have.-IT IS A LOT OF (CHEAP) FUN!-Look around for other old lenses: Canon’s have adapters for tons of other manufacturer’s lenses (like Olympus OM Zuiko). I spent a measly few bucks on a couple adapters and all of a sudden I’ve got almost two dozen (very high optical quality) lenses for my new Canon DSLR for very little money.I took a star off for the 45 minutes of worry and dental-picking to get it off the first time it jammed. After that it was smooth sailing. If I had tightened the screw BEFORE jamming it on a lens I probably would still have given this 4 stars just for the ‘ify’ design of the release lever.Cheers,Mike from Detroit

I tried putting the adapter on my Zeiss zf.2 lenses, some of them work while others dont seem to fit. The ones that dont fit dont click and whenever I try to put them, its really hard to rotate it for installation.

I haven't had a chance to try it out that much, but it seems like a nice addition to my photo equipment. The instructions for putting it on and taking it off of the camera body are clear and easy to follow. I need to try it out some more to see how good it works, but I'm sure it was well worth the price.(Note: there is no actually glass lens part. This is only an extension tube.)

This works exactly as described... you can mount your lens backwards and get extreme magnification from your normal lens. If you want to experiment with this, do a little research ahead of time so you know what to expect and what not to expect. I used my kit 18-55 lens on my Canon Rebel. My first attempt gave me an idea of the strength of the magnification but I didn't love the results. The problem was that I was trying to shoot with the lens wide open and hand held, with the ISO cranked up. This resulted in a depth of field so shallow that it was almost impossible to focus.For the second attempt, I set the lens to f22, didn't try to zoom in as close, and used a table top mini tripod so I could leave my ISO at 100. The exposure time was about 8 seconds with this approach and the results were much better.Pros: Convert a kit lens into a very powerful macro lens. Good fit. My kit lens isn't real heavy, but I never had any fear that it was in danger of falling off the camera due to being mounted backwards. If you have a heavy lens, just keep in mind that you are supporting the weight of the lens by the filter threads. Keep in mind that a shorter focal length gives you more magnification, so if you have a 35 or 50mm prime, you should have a good lens to start experimenting with.Cons: Well, there a lot of them, but I'm more than happy to put up with them, when you look at the cost vs. the results. BTW, this approach was recommended to me by a professional photographer who has several reversing rings for his macro work. So unless you are publishing prints for editorial work, this should be fine for web view or small prints.Here are some things to keep in mind:- You need a very firm setup where neither the camera nor subject is moving. (If you want to photo insects, they'll have to be dead ones.)- The "business" end of the lens is exposed, so you'll want to keep that rear lens cap handy (because now it's a front lens cap). And if you want to leave the lens in this state off the camera, you will need to buy yourself a spare rear lens cap.- The zoom is completely reversed, so 18mm will give you about 3x more magnification than 55mm.- Focus is very sensitive due to the shallow depth of field. Not only that, it's affected by three things: Your zoom setting on the lens (if you are using a zoom), your focus setting on the lens, and the distance between the lens and subject.- The field of view can be dark, blurry, and extremely limited, so it's easy to get "lost" when trying to focus in on your target. I found it helpful to point at the end of my target with my finger (which usually shows up as a big blurry shadow) and then follow that to the end to find where the target is.- With an automatic lens, you will need to first mount the lens in the normal orientation, set the aperture with the camera, then press the DOF preview button on your camera WHILE you remove the lens. This will leave the lens set at the aperture you dialed in (otherwise it reverts back to wide-open when you remove it). For this macro work, you'll need to stop down pretty far. I went with f22 to get a DOF range of about a quarter inch.- When screwing the adapter onto the filter threads of the lens, make sure it is fairly tight, otherwise when you go to remove the lens from the camera, the adapter will start to unscrew.- You have to shoot in manual mode so you can make sure that you have the right exposure. (There's no communication between the lens and camera, so the camera has no idea what the lens aperture is set to.)- Focus is by far the biggest challenge, you need to be able to slightly (and I mean very slightly) nudge the camera or target closer or farther apart in order to fine tune to get the focus you need. You will not be able to use the focus on the lens itself for these adjustments, it's THAT sensitive. You can search the web for focus rails, and some people have made their own.- The quality you get from this approach won't be as good as what you get with a real macro lens. But I didn't have $400 to throw at a macro lens, and I DID have $10 to try this out. For me, it was worth it just to explore this aspect of photography without the huge investment.

First off, the adapter i bought didn't allow for autofocus or IS, so that has it's obvious disadvantages. The manual focus with a vintage lens is tricky and the lack of stabilization makes it difficult to zoom in to a subject with the camera's screen. Depending on the aperture you use, your focus window may be forgiving or small.Now for the pros. The build quality of this adapter is great! I love the weight it adda to my Rebel T7, given this camera is mostly plastic. Once you get used to your focusing window and keeping your hands steady to check focus, the results you get are well worth the effort. I got this adapter for an FD 50MM 1.8, and the pictures it produces are amazing! I bought it for low light ahots, but it can give off an awesome vintage look with the right amount of sunlight. Also, using flash with this lens created an amazing old-school look.

Have spent a few hours out of the last two days trying to fit this product on to the lens. It barely fits on my 7D and is very hard to remove when I do get it on. I hope it has not caused any damage to either my lens or camera.The label says it is 'made in china' in contrast to what they advertised on their old instructional videos of how to install the adapter. My suspicion is that they have outsourced to china without sufficient testing of any kind. The result is a poor quality product, incapable of doing the task it is sold for.There are a few differences in how the product looks from the amazon images to the actual product(writing and hole placement) which looks more like the adapters on their old instructional videos on Youtube.Needless to say I shall have to return this pointless item which was a waste of my time.

Compared with the cheap options out there, this one is pricy but worth it.I am using this on a 5D classic. Having tried quite a few from different places (from £0.99 to 18.95) I found the Fotodiox Pro physically fits best and the thickness of the plate is just perfect, while others are all wobbly (the locking hole is slightly bigger and the base plate is too thin making the lens sunken into the camera more than it should). Because of their loose connections, when you are trying to turn the focus ring by only a little amount, you will move the whole lens slightly instead of actually adjusting the focus. For this reason the focus from the others are always hit and miss, they appear to be fine (not perfectly fine) in viewfinder but the image is just slightly out of focus.This Fotodiox Pro sits very steady on the camera which also makes the image seen in viewfinder stable and sharper. Makes the handling much pleasant and the image quality so much better, the proper quality one would expect from the legendary vintage lenses. Also the built quality of this adapter is excellent, something built to last.Considering the time invested in researching into and money spent on buying the vintage lenses (the days they being dirt cheap is long gone), is it not ridiculous to ruin all the fun and image quality (which the lengthy researching is all about) just to save a few quid?

Bought this to fit an M42 lens to a Canon fit Viltrox Speedbooster. It's a nice fit on the M42 end, but there's some wiggle on the Viltrox end which isn't ideal. All my Canon lenses lock in to the Speedbooster nice and firm. Previous to this, I'd also tried one of the cheap generic adapters that you get on here and another site which also had this problem, hence trying this one. I ended up returning this as I figured there was no point paying 4x as much for something that performs the same. My experience is solely with the Viltrox Speedbooster, it looks to be okay when fitted with other Canon cameras going by the rest of the reviews. However, like I said, I didn't feel like it was a Viltrox issue since I don't have the same issue with any of my other Canon lenses.

I'm so glad I found this adapter because I couldn't find anywhere else.I have canon 6d mk II and purchased x-fujinon 55mm f1.6 lens that I was told it won't fit my dslr camera.I asked on camera/lens vintage groups for advices and everywhere I heard the same thing. That this particular x-fujinon cannot be connected to dslr. Until someone guided me here. I bought it with reserve. But when it came it fitted perfectly. The lens is working great on my camera. Adapter is well build. I'm a very happy customer

This is a well-engineered piece of kit, holding the heavy Mamiya 645 lenses and/or Bellows to the Canon EOS mount - there is no play at all.BUT this is a waste of money (the same applies to the Fotodiox Tamron-EOS Adapter) for anyone with a Canon EOS 1DsMkII, which is my camera. The mount touches on an internal switch which tells the camera to interrogate the lens for its settings. As a consequence, when you press the shutter button, the camera is expecting data and when none are forthcoming, it locks (Error Code 01 shows) and only a second press of the shutter button clears the camera. Fotodiox states that this and the Tamron adapter are compatible with the 1DsMkII - this is not true. It works superbly with most Canon DSLRs but NOT the 1DsMkII! I now have a lovely, well-machined paperweight plus another for the Tamron-EOS adapter.Provided you don't need to use the adapter on my camera model, I can heartily recommend this product. Fotodiox should take note that their info is wrong.