Arlington LV1-10 Low Voltage Mounting Bracket, 1-Gang, Black, 10-Pack

I used these to install all of the low voltage wiring around my house (Ethernet, phone, coax, and media cables) in conjunction with Shaxon keystone wall plates. These work perfectly as existing work 1gang boxes and got the job done pretty easily, especially since the inside of the frame serves as the template for cutting. At first I felt they were a bit too flimsy in my hands, but once they were well secured into the wall they felt better. One customer posted a photo of a ~5lbs wall speaker hung on one of these plates...I am not sure I would trust it to that extent, but its certainly suited for simple keystones and media wall plates. My concern is that even if the hole is perfectly cut in the wall, you only have about a 3mm plastic flange to press against the wall and that's being pulled on by two small plastic clips. I do not know if there is a weight rating for this mounting plate, but if I were going to hang a speaker I wouldn't rely on this, I would use separate drywall anchors or a more stout remodel gang box. All and all, they are a pretty simple product and for the price they do their job well. Here are the supplies I used to built my media infrastructure: Keystone plates = http://amzn.com/B006IKGHVC and http://amzn.com/B006IKHAZY Blank Keystone = http://amzn.com/B006IKH0EA Keystone Mounting Bracket = http://amzn.com/B003JQL0S8 Cat6 Keystone = http://amzn.com/B004D5PFGW HDMI Keystone = http://amzn.com/B0039L3P86 Coax Keystone = http://amzn.com/B003099HOI Cat6 Cable = http://amzn.com/B0049KV52E (the cable this review is written in) Coax Cable = http://amzn.com/B0069F4H3G Coax Right Angle Adapters = http://amzn.com/B00DUW3Y7G Wall Mounted patch panel = http://amzn.com/B000HZES42 Cat6 Crimp connectors = http://amzn.com/B00BS92DCA Strain Relief Boots = http://amzn.com/B000I20B86 Crimp Tool = http://amzn.com/B0000AZK4G Punch Down Tool = http://amzn.com/B0072K1QHM Coax Crimp Tools = http://amzn.com/B003J7YOTO

These are great brackets and absolutely essential for running low voltage wires through walls. It makes running speaker wire, network cable, security camera cable, etc. SO MUCH EASIER. These work similar to those blue "existing work" outlet boxes you may have used for electrical projects, but they're totally open on the back without the box part. The box is required for higher voltage electric lines, but not for low voltage applications such as Ethernet cable. So you simply cut a hole in the wall, slide the bracket in, and then as you tighten the screws, those little clamps fold out and tighten against the drywall, holding the bracket in place. You then have a nice and clean rectangle hole in the wall for running cables, and the bracket has standard sized screw holds for cover plates. Trust me, if you're doing any kind of low voltage wiring inside walls, you need these brackets, it helps SO much. Brackets like this cost about $1.30-$1.50 at the big home improvement stores, so buying a ten pack here definitely saves some money.

These are the same concept as a "remodel box" but without the confined space of the box which is unnecessary on low voltage wiring. I had purchased the bendable tab type mount from the local box store which was completely worthless. The ONLY way for it to secure was to cut a perfect hole and even then, if you had to access it past the initial install or unplug something from it, it loosened up. This bracket gets the job done. I've seen complaints that its hard to mark out? Don't understand that one. Look, I suppose a template would be nice, but not a deal breaker. Its too easy to just measure your outside edges of the recess, plumb with a pocket level, cut hole, install bracket, check work with pocket level, tighten tabs securely via the screw, and DONE! :) AND, the hole doesn't have to be exactly perfect, you have a little room for adjustment to square out the bracket if needed.

As a computer and network technician I was looking for an Old Work low voltage box that I could rely on. I used to go to the big box stores and get the similar ones sold there (see pic of orange box), and every time would get frustrated because the ones at the store do not work, as the screws are not matched correctly with the plastic housing and the effect is a hard time getting it to install. I usually strip the head on the screws in order to get it finally installed. I purchased these after reading reviews on how simple they are. After installing just one of them as a test case, I have to say they are correct (see pic). These low voltage boxes install VERY easy to install. Moreover, I really like the way that they are more flush to the wall then the other ones. I can't begin to describe how little effort I had to use to screw the tabs into place as opposed to the other one. My assessment is that Arlington puts much better thought and effort into the screws and plastic housing. VERY GOOD PRODUCT and will continue to purchase these in lieu of the orange ones at big box. Well done Arlington.

These worked great and are of high quality. A great alternative to the standard gang box. Very easy to install, sturdy construction and holds firmly. Just cut the hole, insert these and tighten two screws. No need to hold the latches either if you've never used one before. As you tighten, the latch flips into a fixed position and stays there. You can over-tighten them and strip the plastic so just be careful not to use too much force. They're are a little expensive too. I only needed 3 but for about a dollar more I bought a pack of ten. Really, the only negative thing I can say is that when returning another purchase in the same order, I noticed the this item has a no returns policy. Luckily I didn't need to. Otherwise, 5 stars.

Amazing quality,what makes this amazing: A.) the boxes are high quality. B.) fits in dry-wall and the hole you cut can be a fraction of an inch small and you can push these into place for a nice tight fit. C.) fits Into wood wall paneling, but you'd need to create a pilot hole with a 1-1/2 inch spade bit. and then cut out the remainder of the hole. what you need to complete this install i.) Measuring tape ii.) Small level iii.) a Jab saw (i used http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-15-556-Jab-Cushion-Grip/dp/B00002X21W/) Vi.) possibly need a spade bit to start the cut with Jab saw if into wood paneling or the like how to install: 1.) Use a reference measurement either from the corner of the wall or from a power outlet 2.) use a magnet or a stud finder, place this anywhere in-between the two studs 3.) Find where to make the hole, the top of the Arlington should be an equal distance from the floor as other boxes on any other wall in the house. to find this out without removing a faceplate of any other box, place a faceplate on the Arlington, and measure from the top of another Box on the wall in the room to the top of the Arlington with Faceplate. mark on the wall where the top of the Arlington will be. or where the top of the faceplate is and then subtract the top of the distance from faceplate to Arlington. 4.) The reference measurement should be to the center of where you'll place the Arlington, use the level ontop of the Arlington, place face against the wall, level with the level, and at the Height needed from step#3. 5.) trace the inside opening of the Arlington with a pencil or pen (i suggest pencil so the marks can be erased if a mistake is made) 6.) using the level, make sure the lines create a perfect square / rectangle. 7.) using the jab saw cut along the outside edge of the lines you just traced 8.) insert Arlington into the hole you just cut 9.) your push stick, pull string, and cat6 should be within 2 inches of your hole if your reference measurements are accurate between the ground floor to attic. 9.A.) For push stick, I used: Cen-Tech 65327 3/16" x 11' Fiberglass Wire Running Kit 9.B.) For Pull string, I used: Greenlee 430-500 Poly Fish Line, Tracer Green, 500-Foot 9.C.) For Cat6, I used: [[ASIN:B005UFKJPG Cat6, 550 MHz, UTP, 23AWG, 8C Solid Pure Copper, CMR, 1000ft, White, Bulk Ethernet 10.) pull through any line you fished down the wall, and insert the Arlington​ and screw tight, but don't over tighten 11.) connect your connectors to the line and place faceplates on.

I've used the Carlon Bracket, the Caddy MLPS bracket and a couple of others. As a pro electrician, I do like that the Caddy is all metal; the 6/32 screws you use to attach a plate go in much more easily than into virgin plastic holes. However, the MPLS always requires several minutes of swearing when trying to find the hole for the "clamp-screw" (which you have to find blindly inside the wall). The Arlington is simple. Trace INSIDE the frame opening and cut your drywall OUTSIDE the line. You've just made a simple rectangular hole. Now tighten the screws. Done. The Arlington also has a slightly deeper range of clamping - good for walls up to 1" thick. If you encounter buttonboard or double-sheetrock, you'll need that extra depth. If you encounter lath-and-plaster, of course, it may or may not be over 1" thick. In that case, the MPLS will serve you better. You'll also need a router or vibratory saw to make a clean cut (or a small drill bit, something to chisel with, and lot of patience).

Basically these are low profile backless gang boxes. They attach to the wall with the same flip-style fastener. They worked great for my home theater system. One MAJOR plus for these. I was evenly spacing 3 boxes on the wall. I had a pre-existing electric outlet, and was adding a cable outlet w/ a regular gang box, and an audio outlet to my receiver (Using the arlington mount) In order to evenly space the outlets (because Im a bit of a perfectionist) one of them had to be partially over a wall stud. The Arlington box is able to be installed over the stud because of its low profile, and I was able to simply pull the wiring around the stud and through the gang.