Design Engineering Titanium Exhaust Heat Wrap with Lava Rock Technology - 2" x 15' - Heat Wrap for Exhaust Pipes, Pliable Exhaust Wrap Tape, Withstands 1800°F Direct Heat & 2500°F Intermittent Heat

Hi FolksGreg Muncer here with Advanced Fleet Specialists of 37 years.I have a 1988 Chevy Caprice that is in great shape.The exhaust pipes and muffler needed 6 repairs.I search this product down;not wanting to replace the exhaust system.I followed every direction and added these things.1) I scrubbed an area around the repairs about a third away around the pipes,with a stainless steel wire toothbrush, and with Clorox Clean Up (spray) anda spray water bottle to thoroughly rinse the area after the wire brush and soapy bleach scrubbing.Then I quickly wipe the area mostly dry with a paper towel so it did not flash rust much.2) I tape measured the repair area to make a patch about an inch longer than the ends of the repair area.3) I bought off Amazon here, one roll of " DEI 010129 2" Titanium Exhaust/ Header Wrap - 15' " for $14.95.This 2 inch wide exhaust wrap was a dog's great fetch, ("a cat's meow" ha ha),I took the Muffler Putty " Permatex 80333 Muffler and Tailpipe Putty - 4 oz. " , available here on Amazon also,and needed it (which mixes it just prior to use), like the directions said.I screeded the packet to the edge where you cut the packet open, then I cut only about 1/3 the end off,to be able to squeeze out about a 1 inch wide squeeze out of the packet.I squeezed the putty onto the measured and cut exhaust wrap mention above.I squeezed the putty onto the middle of the 2 inch wide tape all along its length.I then took a stiff piece off plastic, for a putty knife andsmoothed the putty over the tape, covering every edge.(I had laid the tape on a cardboard box to dispose of the mess made on a workable disposable surface)So, spread the putty thoroughly a little less than 1/4 inch thick on one side of the tape.4) With the tape spread with putty, I took my water spray bottle and wetted the repair area again.This time I only dried it very lightly, leaving it wet but not dripping.I dabbed up the drips with a paper towel.I then place the putty side of the tape against the wire brushed and wetted repair area;where the puttied tape patch, hung over the repair area about an inch on each end.I used disposable latex gloves and so with these gloves on,I smoothed the outty all over the tape which brought some of the extra putty to the edges of the tape.While smoothing the tape out, I had some putty come through the tape that is a little pores.(Careful to leave the center of the tape humped up a bit on its center length,so as to leave a good thickness of putty over the holes in the pipe or muffler).Extra putty from the packets can also be used over the outside of the tape to seal up the pores tape.Smoothing over the complete tape patch and its edges with putty makes a smooth cast like product,just like a cast use for a persons broken arm, except this cast is good for extremely high heat.5) Once you get your patch smoothed out on the repair area,I set a 1500 watt (small heater withing an inch of the surface of the wet patch.I found that the patch had to stay as hot as this heater would make it, for at least an hour or longer is better.(I had one place that I could not get the heat close enough to make the pipe hot for an hour and,when I drove the car (without giving it much gas) the patch had not sufficiently hardened andthe path lift off one end and the exhaust was escaping out the repair hole again)>Point is make sure you heat the patch good for at least about an hour.I found the heater made the patch and pipe hot enough that you could still touch it without burning your hand but,probably you could not leave your hand on the hot patch more than a few seconds without burning your hand.This should give you a good idea as to how hot to make the patch.It could even be a little hotter than this, although I like a slower curing process so,that it does not bubble up from too quick of hot heat causing the putty to boil before it hardens.Keep in mind that this tape over the putty slowes down the drying process andso the heater and the whole hour heating the patch seems to become absolutely needed.In summary this is a fantastic product and the tape really helps to bridge the gaps and maintain a real good consistent thickness of the repair.I used 3 packets out of the 4 packets that I bought.(Each of these purchase packs contained 2 packets inside each pack, soI used 6 little packets altogether.)Each tape patch average about 8 inches long and was applied long ways onto the pipe.I did not wrap the tape patch around the pipe except for one of the repairs that required it.The 2 inch wide tape came in a 15 foot roll and I used a little less than 5 feet of it.I paid $3.40 a pack and used 3 packs so I used about $10 bucks of putty and $5 bucks worth of the tape; soI used $15 dollars of product to make 6 beautiful patches. (I wasted some, when I did not let the one patch heat up hot enough and long enough).Use a heater, wire brush the area and get any greese off the repair area with a soapy bleach. Rinse it well with water (the putty is water based),pre wet the repair area just before applying the wet patch.My exhaust system was strong before I began and was being held firmly by all connections and exhaust hangers, but every pipe, muffler and resonator require a sizable patch and so it this $15 bucks worth of muffler putty and 2 inch wide tape save me the best part of $1,000. I feel confident I will not have to replace this exhaust system for another few years. Thank You Amazon, Permatex and Design Engineering; maker's of the 2" Titanium Exhaust/ Header Wrap - 15'.Happy Motoring, Sincerely Greg (I still spent 6 hours repairing the 6 areas) but just paid $15 bucks.Both these products, the putty and the tape were good up to temperatures of 2,000 degrees, oh yea.

Had this years ago for my motorcycle exhaust... On a 2009 Yamaha R1 Works ok. It gives a racer look. Does it hold the heat? maybe reduces heat by 15 percent ...very little..

first off, when starting your loop, tie the wrap around in a knot, then wrap around it, don't use a metal tie to start your wrap. keep working the wrap and stretch it to what you need around the corners, use sharp scissors to trim any frays. Make sure to buy the metal ties.Now, once you're done and go for a ride it will singe and smoke a little and cure itself. Then its amazing wrap, really keeps the heat off of your leg and I've got a few compliments on the way it shines. This is top quality stuff.

This really does work great and it is inexpensive but do NOT handle this bare handed, wear some leather gloves then you wrap the exhaust, I had slivers in my hands for days just like handling fiberglass. It does work great tho

Great stuff! I have wrapped the pipes of 2 motorcycles with this stuff, most recently on a Honda CBR and it greatly reduces the heat felt through the seat and right leg.Make note that this titanium wrap is very brown/bronze in color. I originally thought it was black and silver weave. Still worked great, I just ended up spraying it with black high heat exhaust paint to be black and match my bike better.Also the ends come unravelled very easily until you start wrapping. Just wrap it over itself at the beginning and be sure to fold it over itself before steel banding it on the other end. Painting it afterwards really looks clean, while the paint is still tacky you can smooth all the fuzzys down with your hands befroe it dries for a clean look. Again I use this stuff for bikes, for cars it may not matter to you.

I bought the wrap to apply over Permatex after I patched an exhaust leak in the "y" bend of our manifold (before the cat). It appeared that the seam had not been welded all the way, and a slight bump to the heat shield caused it to leak.The Permatex (Amazon: high temp exhaust repair) worked great, sealing the leak. I sanded the surface after it cured, painted it (Rust-oleum high temp paint), wrapped the pipe (no water needed), added metal ties (bought separately on Amazon), then added another coat of high temp paint to protect it.The wrap was easy to work with and felt like satin. Yes, I wore gloves...The insulation on the exhaust heat shield was so old it crumbled and fell out, so there was plenty of room to put the shield back on over the wrap. I also have plenty of material, if needed, for another wrap repair.Very little smoke and no more leaks...

Patience is need to get a tight wrap especially around the bends. It looks good when done. I used hose clamps as suggested in another review. I think this helped quite a bit as the pull ties do not get quite the same hold as the clamps. I was able to pull it very tight as I wrapped which looked good in the end.The wrap reduced the overall heat from the pipes near my leg which makes the ride much more tolerable. I haven't tried it but I'm sure an accidental brushing on the pipes will not result in the instant loss of skin as with bare pipes. The wrap diffuses the heat that well.Using a coating is absolutely a must. It maintains the integrity of the weave. I coated mine with the DEI silicone product. You can read that review separately. I read several reviews that state other products are cheaper and just as good, but I am not familiar with them so I used the DEI product.Thanks to you other reviewers and your tips. They helped quite a bit.